I need to replace the rubber washers, pivot bolt, and check the cable on the center board of my daysailor II. I cannot see how to access these or replace them. I can buy the new parts. Has anyone done this operation? Thanks for any help.
replacing the washers and pivot bolt on daysailor II
- Thread starter Gary Meckes
- Start date
- Status
Done it, many times..... well, no, I didn't have to replace all of those parts... but I've taken the CB out of the boat at least 3-4 times during the 13 years that I've owned her. What model year is your DS II? That answer may help to tell me what to tell you. On the 1980 and newr DS II (and the DS III) removing the CB is fairly easy once you get the boat off the trailer and at least 18" off the ground (or tipped on her side). On those boats there are 2 stainless-steel plates, on hte bottom of the boat, one on each side of the CB slot, and removong them releases a pair of fiberglass wedges that in turn hold in the CB pivot pin. On the older boats, the CB is held in by a stainless steel bolt through a plastic bushing (CB pivots on bushing) and through the CB trunk. Be sure that the bushing is slightly (about 1/8") than the CB is thick since you want the bushing to be clamped into the trunk and still allow the CB to pivot on it.
Replacing the cable that pulls the CB up is not hard once the CB is dropped out of the boat (although you can't drop the board very far out of the slot until the cable is detached from the CB) On boats built after about 1973-4 the cable is attached to a SS tank that is screwed to the top of the CB, older boats may have the cable buried inside the CB and will need to cut the cable to remove CB (D&R Marine sells replacement cable sets). The cable will be reattched using a tang like on the newer boats. The line that pulls the board down is attached to the CB with a knot buried in the lower corner of the CB (on boats newer than about 1973-4) and that line is pretty easy to replace, although you need to dig out the filler that covers the hole (I never did refill the hole, not really needed). The lines in the cockpit that control the Up/Down of the CB are easy to replace just rerig as they were using new line. On 1971-73 models the CB is pulled down by a cable that is molded into the CB and runs out through a turning block on hte top of the CB trunk. This cable can be replaced (I don't know length, Rudy at D&R should know) it is a bit harder than replacing the line on a newer boat, but not impossible. Since it seems like it would need to be assembled in place, Rudy will not be able to send a complete cable assembly for ready installation, so you will need to buy/borrow a Nico-press tool to swage the cable loops. Roger (DS II owner who wrote the book you were looking for) probably has all the specs on these cables for the older boats, I have all the info on the newer (1974-85) models. I sell an expanded Owner's Manual for the DS II that covers 1971-85, and I'll post a few diagrams below, but at the moment I have to admit that I don't have the exact measurements for the 2 cables on those early CB setups. I have a diagram of how they run, but not the length og the CB down cable.
OH, I almost forgot! The access to the CB pivot bolt on the 1971-79 boats is through the 2 inspection-bailing ports at the forward end of the cockpit and you need (2) 3/4" hex wrenches, one to turn the nut and one to hold the head of the bolt.
Replacing the cable that pulls the CB up is not hard once the CB is dropped out of the boat (although you can't drop the board very far out of the slot until the cable is detached from the CB) On boats built after about 1973-4 the cable is attached to a SS tank that is screwed to the top of the CB, older boats may have the cable buried inside the CB and will need to cut the cable to remove CB (D&R Marine sells replacement cable sets). The cable will be reattched using a tang like on the newer boats. The line that pulls the board down is attached to the CB with a knot buried in the lower corner of the CB (on boats newer than about 1973-4) and that line is pretty easy to replace, although you need to dig out the filler that covers the hole (I never did refill the hole, not really needed). The lines in the cockpit that control the Up/Down of the CB are easy to replace just rerig as they were using new line. On 1971-73 models the CB is pulled down by a cable that is molded into the CB and runs out through a turning block on hte top of the CB trunk. This cable can be replaced (I don't know length, Rudy at D&R should know) it is a bit harder than replacing the line on a newer boat, but not impossible. Since it seems like it would need to be assembled in place, Rudy will not be able to send a complete cable assembly for ready installation, so you will need to buy/borrow a Nico-press tool to swage the cable loops. Roger (DS II owner who wrote the book you were looking for) probably has all the specs on these cables for the older boats, I have all the info on the newer (1974-85) models. I sell an expanded Owner's Manual for the DS II that covers 1971-85, and I'll post a few diagrams below, but at the moment I have to admit that I don't have the exact measurements for the 2 cables on those early CB setups. I have a diagram of how they run, but not the length og the CB down cable.
OH, I almost forgot! The access to the CB pivot bolt on the 1971-79 boats is through the 2 inspection-bailing ports at the forward end of the cockpit and you need (2) 3/4" hex wrenches, one to turn the nut and one to hold the head of the bolt.
Attachments
Thank you very much for the info. My daysailor II is a 1976. I located the pivot bolt thru the inspection hatches and it does not appear to difficult to remove it to replace the rubber washers. I hope the CB does not have to be fully down as the boat is on a trailler in my garage. I ordered the washers from D&R and Rudy recomended that I put vasoline on the inner sides, I hope this solves the problem of the hull leaking.
I do not understand how the ropes, wire cable, and bungee system operates. I believe the previous owner did not have it correct. I have a single line that is attached to the front of the CB. this line comes up thru the top hole on t;he front of the trunk and passes thru the top hole in the bulkhead and then runs back thru the bottom hole where it passes thru a single pulley attached to the deck next to the mast. Here it is tied to the eye of the steel cable which comes out of the bottom hole on the front of the trunk. The bungee is attached to a fitting in front of the mast and hooked to the steel cable eye. There is a pulley on this end of the bungee but is not being used. There is also a hole thru the bulkhead to the left of the trunk with nothing running thru? There is also a fitting to the left of the mast on the deck that is not being used. I hope this makes sence, any help would be appreciated. Please let me know how I can order your manual.
I do not understand how the ropes, wire cable, and bungee system operates. I believe the previous owner did not have it correct. I have a single line that is attached to the front of the CB. this line comes up thru the top hole on t;he front of the trunk and passes thru the top hole in the bulkhead and then runs back thru the bottom hole where it passes thru a single pulley attached to the deck next to the mast. Here it is tied to the eye of the steel cable which comes out of the bottom hole on the front of the trunk. The bungee is attached to a fitting in front of the mast and hooked to the steel cable eye. There is a pulley on this end of the bungee but is not being used. There is also a hole thru the bulkhead to the left of the trunk with nothing running thru? There is also a fitting to the left of the mast on the deck that is not being used. I hope this makes sence, any help would be appreciated. Please let me know how I can order your manual.
Gary, I think the previous owner kind of modified the CB lines.... I keep getting lost trying to picture it! No problem, below find some pictures of how the lines were rigged originally. You will note that I added an aluminum plate under the maststep on my boat to spread out the load but the CB control fittings are in basically the stock location (I think I moved them forward about 1-2", but the path of the lines remains the same). The up and down control lines are really just two ends of the same line. The line deadends at the eyestrap to port of the mast, runs aft through the block on the up cable, forward to the block to starboard of the mast, then aft through the lower hole in the aft bulkhead of the cuddy then loops around (about 12" slack aft of the cleat on the CB trunk) and forward through the upper hole on the aft bulkhead of the cuddy, through the block mounted to the starboard side of the forward end of the CB trunk, up to a block on the inside of the cuddy roof, down through the block on the short line attached to the forward lower corner of the CB, and up to tie to the becket loop on the block attached to the cuddy roof. Sounds complicated! However, it is easy to follow once you've seen it.
To order my Manual, just send me an e-mail by clicking on my user name, The cost is $10.00 to cover the postage and printing, but I also include scanned copies of the DS II sales brochures that I have (sadly, I don't have a 1976 yet) but what I do have is interesting.
I think that as long as the CB is supported while on the trailer (mine pretty much is) and you don't accidently bump anything.... you should be able to remove the pivot bolt, replace the washers, and reinsert the bolt with the boat sitting on the trailer. Depending on how thick Rudy makes the repalcement washers, I might suggest adding an additional Stainless-steel washer to each side (between bolt head and rubber washer and between nut and rubber washer) in addition to what is there, I discovered that the bolt on my boat is slightly long and does not quite squeeze the rubber washers as much as I'd like before the nut hits the end of the threads. I use some silicone sealant to compensate.
To order my Manual, just send me an e-mail by clicking on my user name, The cost is $10.00 to cover the postage and printing, but I also include scanned copies of the DS II sales brochures that I have (sadly, I don't have a 1976 yet) but what I do have is interesting.
I think that as long as the CB is supported while on the trailer (mine pretty much is) and you don't accidently bump anything.... you should be able to remove the pivot bolt, replace the washers, and reinsert the bolt with the boat sitting on the trailer. Depending on how thick Rudy makes the repalcement washers, I might suggest adding an additional Stainless-steel washer to each side (between bolt head and rubber washer and between nut and rubber washer) in addition to what is there, I discovered that the bolt on my boat is slightly long and does not quite squeeze the rubber washers as much as I'd like before the nut hits the end of the threads. I use some silicone sealant to compensate.
Attachments
Thanks for all the help. I cannot seem to click on your e-mail. Could you let me know where I can send a check to for the $10 and whom to make it payable to in order to buy your manual. You have been a big help and I appreciate the time and effort.
- Status