Replacing the rub rail

Mar 28, 2010
44
Hunter 23 El Dorado Lake, KS
Thanks for your post. I was thinking filling the holes too.
BTW - Did you any issues with gel coat/fiberglass tearing off with the old rub rail keeper as you removed it? I used a bevelled putty knife and mallet but at times could not avoid tearing off gel coat and a layer or two of fiber glas. I am wondering whether I should put down some gel coat where it is torn off or just forget about it.
 
Mar 28, 2010
44
Hunter 23 El Dorado Lake, KS
OK, next time I am at the lake I will take a photo of these blocks as they sit inside the hull. The holes you see in the pic are from the rub rail keeper. The visible screw heads were underneath the keeper and apparently are holding the deck and hull joint together along with some 3M 5200.

TS
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,524
-na -NA Anywhere USA
There are two items, base and insert. generally the base was screwed on which I saw holes in it to reflect that. I was wondering if the screws you saw on the hull to deck joint actually pulled out of the base. This is why photos are important. How about a picture looking at the hull to deck joint with the screws and another head on of the base of the rub rail to the left.
 

Ward H

.
Nov 7, 2011
3,814
Catalina 30 Mk II Cedar Creek, Bayville NJ
TS,
There was no sealant under the rail keeper on my O'day. I did find several loose and partly backed out deck to hull joint screws. I backed out every joint screw about 1/2 way, one at a time, coated them with 3M 4200 and retightened them.
Looking back, I should have used 5200 as Dave recommended.
Doing all this fixed several leaks I had trouble tracking down so it was worth the effort.
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,524
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Tgrass, send the photos to me personally of what I asked for. Construction of boats does vary from manufacturer even though basics might be the same as I represented many lines over the years.