I have a 1985 Hunter 23. My rub rail was damaged while the boat was in its slip during a storm. I bought 60 ft of rub rail keeper and rubber insert. I am looking for some guidance on how best to go about this task.
Replacing the rub rail
- Thread starter Tallgrass Sailor
- Start date
the hardest issue is bending the center of the rubrail for the bow. I would suggest if at all possible as mentioned using hot water (be careful not to spill any on anyone) and conform it to the bend of the bow say using something rounded close to the shape of the bow. I would not use a torch of any kind. I did use a heat gun but was well experienced with that use where most are not.
Highly suggest using 5200 for that repair as it is permanent which you want, not 4200 based on many repair experience to these boats over the years.
Thanks for the tips and suggestions. It appears to me the old rail keeper needs to be removed and then placed next to or on top the new rail keeper to mark where the new screw holes need to be drilled and counter- sinked.
Q. Am I thinking correctly on this? Also the plywood blocks inside the hull are loose in many spots and are dry-rotted. I probably should replace those as well.
Q. Am I thinking correctly on this? Also the plywood blocks inside the hull are loose in many spots and are dry-rotted. I probably should replace those as well.
what plywood blocks sir. Take a couple of photos and post so we have a better idea of what to look at and get some really good responses from this forum.
The biggest problem many do not realize, 4200 is not a permanent sealant and contrary to what is said, I have seen screws back out holding the rubrail which is why you want something permanent like 5200 and this is 30 plus years as a dealer talking plus manufacturers use 5200 for that reason alone.
Replacing rub rail keeper
OK, I'll strongly consider 5200. FWIW, I having a helluva time removing the port rail. I think was this side rail keeper was rebedded generously with 5200 and the gel coat is coming off with the rub rail exposing fiber glas threads/mesh. Should I care or not about this since it will underneath the rub rail keeper.
BTW: The rotten wood blocks are discussed by Mark Major on Hull/Deck resealing in the h23 boat modifications. I don'y have any pic at the moment.
OK, I'll strongly consider 5200. FWIW, I having a helluva time removing the port rail. I think was this side rail keeper was rebedded generously with 5200 and the gel coat is coming off with the rub rail exposing fiber glas threads/mesh. Should I care or not about this since it will underneath the rub rail keeper.
BTW: The rotten wood blocks are discussed by Mark Major on Hull/Deck resealing in the h23 boat modifications. I don'y have any pic at the moment.
Here are some pix of the wood blocks
These5 x 1.5 x 0.5 in. blocks are inside the hull where ever rub rail keeper screws penetrate the hull. I have found these in the main cabin (port and starboard) and in the lazarette when mounting some line cleats aft of the aft life line attachment. They are usually barely attached and some time they just fall off in your hand.
Attachments
Initial about 8 ft of the rub rail was damaged by bashing the port side into the slip during thunderstorm with 80 mph winds. Both port stanchions were bent over as well. I did not secure bow dock lines as tight as I should have.
Anyway as I removed the black insert it damaged the undamaged rail keeper. And I do not think there is a way to cleanly replace just a section of the rub rail and keeper, especially if 5200 has been used before.
Anyway as I removed the black insert it damaged the undamaged rail keeper. And I do not think there is a way to cleanly replace just a section of the rub rail and keeper, especially if 5200 has been used before.
Tallgrass Sailor called yesterday and he is sending me some photos. I suspect that screws are missing but will wait till the photos are in.
looking back at the rub rail base, I do see screw holes in it off to the left and suspect screws either came out over time, taken off by a previous PO or whatever to cause the failure. The 5200 from what I recall removing that rubrail was only where the screws were installed to hold that rubrail in place coming from Hunter. We will never know exactly if it was an employee and if so probably new who did that but what is confusing if screws were actually missing and not put back in after the boat leaving the factory.
tgrass, thanks for the photos and feel free to contact me as I would like to see a photo of the inside to refamiliar myself with these wood blocks as seen in the photos.
dave
tgrass, thanks for the photos and feel free to contact me as I would like to see a photo of the inside to refamiliar myself with these wood blocks as seen in the photos.
dave
When I replaced the rub rail on my O'day I filled all the screw holes with West Systems 610 thickened epoxy. You get it in a tube that fits a caulking gun and it has mixing tips. I filled the holes and drilled new ones rather than trying to line up any holes.