We have a 30', 1981 Hunter and I plan on replacing the propeller shaft, cutlass bearing in the strut, and the stuffing box this spring. I would like to hear from any Hunter 30' owners out there who have tackled this task and get their feedback and opinions on the best way to do this. Also, I am aware that I should have the new shaft balanced and existing prop checked for pitch before re-installiation. Can anyone recommend a good shop on Long Island for me to use.
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John Tesoriero
Options
I have had my shaft, cutlass, stufing box, etc on my 1980 Hunter 30 removed and replaced twice in the past three years (don't ask!). Although I have heard that the shaft can be pulled aft around the skeg it seems like a major project. It may be less work and trouble to either remove the engine or jack it up and pull the shaft forward. If you do all of this, check the aligment of the strut when you get the new shaft in place. My stut had to be carefuly re-aligned in order to get the shaft to sit in the center of the shaft log.
I have had my shaft, cutlass, stufing box, etc on my 1980 Hunter 30 removed and replaced twice in the past three years (don't ask!). Although I have heard that the shaft can be pulled aft around the skeg it seems like a major project. It may be less work and trouble to either remove the engine or jack it up and pull the shaft forward. If you do all of this, check the aligment of the strut when you get the new shaft in place. My stut had to be carefuly re-aligned in order to get the shaft to sit in the center of the shaft log.
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Steve Humenick
Prop Shop
I don't know how hard it is to remove the shaft on an H30 but I just did the same thing on my 37 cutter. The hardest part was removing the coupling from the shaft. Check the link below, it might just work. If not and you KNOW you need a new shaft then just cut the shaft and bring the remains to the shop. A good prop shop on LI is Bossler & Sweezey, 1450 Montauk Hwy. Bellport, NY 631-286-0458 Good work, good prices and it took less than a week. Good luck
I don't know how hard it is to remove the shaft on an H30 but I just did the same thing on my 37 cutter. The hardest part was removing the coupling from the shaft. Check the link below, it might just work. If not and you KNOW you need a new shaft then just cut the shaft and bring the remains to the shop. A good prop shop on LI is Bossler & Sweezey, 1450 Montauk Hwy. Bellport, NY 631-286-0458 Good work, good prices and it took less than a week. Good luck
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Pat McCartin
H30 shaft troubles
I had to do the same when I bought my 30, 4 years ago. I found that by removing the strut from the hull I could get the shaft out easily. There are only 6, 1/4" bolts that hold on the strut. You can then rebed it with a piece of plastic instead of the plywood that's there from the factory. With all of the work you plan an alignment WILL be necessary when you are back in the water and floating for at least a day.
I had to do the same when I bought my 30, 4 years ago. I found that by removing the strut from the hull I could get the shaft out easily. There are only 6, 1/4" bolts that hold on the strut. You can then rebed it with a piece of plastic instead of the plywood that's there from the factory. With all of the work you plan an alignment WILL be necessary when you are back in the water and floating for at least a day.
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mike
pat, what kind of plastic
i noticed my strut is loose and plan on changing the bearing and rebedding. why should i change the backing for the strut to plastic, and what kind, thanks, mike
i noticed my strut is loose and plan on changing the bearing and rebedding. why should i change the backing for the strut to plastic, and what kind, thanks, mike
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Pat McCartin
Plastic backing plates....
Hey, I used Delrin as my backing plate. You could use any of the High density polyethelenes. I glued them in with 5200 (I know). Now I'll never replace them.
Hey, I used Delrin as my backing plate. You could use any of the High density polyethelenes. I glued them in with 5200 (I know). Now I'll never replace them.
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Dave
Alignment
Pat, when you say "an alignment WILL be necessary when you are back in the water and floating for at least a day " you mean the regular shaft to trans alignment right? not that you re-adjust the strut?
Pat, when you say "an alignment WILL be necessary when you are back in the water and floating for at least a day " you mean the regular shaft to trans alignment right? not that you re-adjust the strut?
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Pat McCartin
Alignment
That's correct. The shaft, strut and packing gland are assumed to be in line, and a fixed item. The engine/trans assembly is then aligned to the shaft/strut/gland assy.
That's correct. The shaft, strut and packing gland are assumed to be in line, and a fixed item. The engine/trans assembly is then aligned to the shaft/strut/gland assy.
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