Replacing the Potable Water Lines

[sailcapt340]

On my 2000 340, I find I have to replace the cold water connection at the outside shower. Both the waterline nut connector and the 90* elbow have a hairline crack. It's just enough of a drip to cycle the water pump on and off every minute or so.
I see that the original line has a wire ring pressed into the line that holds the ferrel in place, to make a watertight seal.
I plan on replacing both lines from under the sink in the head out to the shower.
Will I need any special tools for this assembly or are the "new" lines and connectors designed differently from those used back in 2000?
Thanks for your input and help.

 

[Bill Roosa]

There are quick connect 90 deg elbows that only require the plastic tube. just push it in and your done. There are other fittings also for all you plumbing needs. Try WM.

 

[splax]

I think Home Depot has the shark bite "push to connect" fittings, or a local plumbing supply business might help you out there. I am currently changing all the tubing on my boat from Qwest, the gray rubbery tubing, to PEX.

 

[ice breaker]

I think Home Depot has the shark bite "push to connect" fittings, or a local plumbing supply business might help you out there. I am currently changing all the tubing on my boat from Qwest, the gray rubbery tubing, to PEX.

My 41 is metric. HD shark bites wont work.

 

[splax]

Well, if you are replacing the lines out to the shower, you can use whatever size tubing and fittings that work for you,

 

[BarryL]

Hey,

I would use the new quick connect type fittings. Note there are metric and standard sizes, and they are NOT interchangeable (don't ask me how I know). You are best off taking one fitting off your boat and and measuring VERY closely, or by reading the tiny print on the connector. I bought 1/2" for my boat b/c that's what I measured, but it didn't fit. When I took off a connector it had 15mm printed on it. Oops!

Defender has it all.
Hoses:
http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1|2243574&id=2243582
Fittings
http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1|2243574|2243585&id=2243592


Barry

 

[seabeau]

I think Home Depot has the shark bite "push to connect" fittings, or a local plumbing supply business might help you out there. I am currently changing all the tubing on my boat from Qwest, the gray rubbery tubing, to PEX.

Whatever "plastic" I use I would be sure that it is somewhat resistant to Freezing. Some are, some aren't!

 

[sailcapt340]

Does anyone know of a 15mm Inline Quick Connect Flushout Fitting? Somewhat like the Flushout Fitting used on the engine heater hose and water heater.
I see Shutoff Inline Fittings but no Flushout. Maybe a reason I'm not thinking of?
I'm thinking it would aid in draining water from the lines during winterizing.

 

[ice breaker]

Does anyone know of a 15mm Inline Quick Connect Flushout Fitting? Somewhat like the Flushout Fitting used on the engine heater hose and water heater.
I see Shutoff Inline Fittings but no Flushout. Maybe a reason I'm not thinking of?
I'm thinking it would aid in draining water from the lines during winterizing.

I use a compressor hooked up to the shore water inlet. Works great and NO ati freeze taste. No leaks or breakage in 7 winters.

 

[PGIJon]

Splax, how is the refit going? That project is on my list. Thanks.. Jon

 

[splax]

Jon,
I was going to upsize to 1/2" PEX, but after replacing the lines from the tanks forward to the valve and pump, I realized that running the larger tubing to the fixtures in the space provided was going to be an issue.
I also started with the idea of using the push-to-connect fittings, but found that is a really expensive way to go, if you already have the crimp-ring tool. The shower fixture fittings are a litmus test for bending the tubing, part of why I went back to the 3/8" tubing. Getting 3/8" fittings and tubing can be a problem no matter if you are using push-to-connect or crimp ring attachment.
You will need 14- 1/2" FNPT 3/8" PEX (2 off tanks, 6 off fixtures, 2 off pump, 2 off air separator, 2 off heater)
5- 3/8" tee (2 at settee, 2 at galley sink, 1 at pump)
75-80' tubing

splax

 

[PGIJon]

Thanks a million Splax! I was also going to go with the shark bite fittings. So if I understand correctly, you are now simply crimping the everything together with the PEX fasteners... Just a thought you may want to put this up as an H34 project. I'm certain this will save a lot of folks a lot of time and $$$$. Thanks again! -Jon

 

[Jacques C]

1/2" Pex

Splax I have replaced all of the water lines on My Hunter 34 with 1/2" PEX. The only major problem I had was running the tubing under the floor from starboard to port by the compression post. I had to remove all of the center cabinetry and take up the floor.

 

[PGIJon]

Jacques... Did you try to connect the new tubing to the old and pull it through? After y ou remove the sole did you find what caused the hang up? Thanks.. Jon

 

[Dave Groshong]

We offer the common 15mm quick connectors, SeaTech and Whale brands:

http://shop.hunterowners.com/prod.php?15732

http://shop.hunterowners.com/prod.php?15724

 

[Jacques C]

Hi Jon I don't think I connected the hoses and pulled through. I did that with the pipe to the stern tank and it worked. Under the floor, the pipe runs through the grid. It had to got through one side of the beam and out the other. That was the problem. They didn't line up well enough for me to poke it through. Pulling up the floor enabled me to clean up inside the grid and repaint the underside of the floor.

 

[splax]

That run under the cabin sole has intimidated me since I started the upgrade. I have been concerned that the tubing was "zip tied" like wires and tubing from the aft tank. I do not want to take up the interior. I hope that the 3/8" tubing passes through OK. I have been rethinking this job as I go, as my previous post indicated.
The challenge with using crimp-ring connections is space to use the tool. Assemblies need to made up leaving mechanical connections to be done in place. For example, I will be feeding the tubing to the shower fixture from the dinette, crimping the adapter on the tubing, then attaching it to the fixture.
The shark-bite tees may be the way to go. Crimping the adapter on the tubing and attaching to the fixture seems to be easier than trying to attach the fitting and hope the mechanical push-seal works. Trying to get a wrench past the tubing to the nut is an issue either way.
I have finally figured out that I want to get a barbed coupling to attach the new tube to the old tube and then fish them through. Hopefully this will get me by any obstruction under there. I will cut the tubing to free the coupling and consider the tubing sacrificed well-spent.

 

[PGIJon]

Thanks Splax.... GMTA... I already ordered my barb connectors yesterday as well as the crimping tool. I can't stand it that hunter zip tied wires together under the sole! Please let me know how the pull went. I am also pulling new water heater tubing from the engine. I'm planning on go with the barb on that too since there is a big bend required. As I said I already order the crimping tool, but based on your comments, I'll use the push-seals only where I cannot crimp.

 

[splax]

Well, today I push/pulled the tubing athwartships using the barb coupling for the ends and tape to hold them together. It worked well. I got a couple of those plastic turn pieces, they look like miniature pipe bending tools, for the 90 turn behind the shower fixture. They worked well also. They were an impulse buy this morning and I am really pleased with the $2.50 investment. I was not able to get the fittings for the remaining fixtures and just re-used the compression nuts with the lock ring and spacer. Everything is back together. Leak tightness test tomorrow.

 

[PGIJon]

Splax... thanks for the update. Could you please upload a picture of the connections. Thanks... -Jon