We are in the process of restoring a '79 Hunter 33. The existing hull liner is in pretty bad shape. We've been researching the various cloth materials, but...what about a textured vinyl wallpaper??? Especially those types specifically for bathrooms? They're supposed to resist mold & mildew. Any thoughts on this, or anything else that's worked?
Replacing the Hull Liner
- Thread starter seagull4
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Lowes
I am in the process as well with a Hunter 25 replacing ugly 70ties basket weave material. I ventured to Lowes recently. They have a soft tan/black or gray interior/exterior carpeting with a marine backing, don't buy the low-pile textured material, not very comfortable looking. They call it boat carpet and it's far more equitable than hulliner at only 71 cents a square foot. You really don't need any insulation as the carpet provides a good barrier with a rubber backing. You either take down your foam insulation, or if in good shape, keep it up and carpet right over it. I'm using contact cement to hold it in place. I've just started the process, looks good.
I am in the process as well with a Hunter 25 replacing ugly 70ties basket weave material. I ventured to Lowes recently. They have a soft tan/black or gray interior/exterior carpeting with a marine backing, don't buy the low-pile textured material, not very comfortable looking. They call it boat carpet and it's far more equitable than hulliner at only 71 cents a square foot. You really don't need any insulation as the carpet provides a good barrier with a rubber backing. You either take down your foam insulation, or if in good shape, keep it up and carpet right over it. I'm using contact cement to hold it in place. I've just started the process, looks good.
wallpaper didn't work
We own a 79 H30 and the bulkhead in the vbirth and head had this vinyl wallpaper that looked like grass cloth. It was stained with teak oil and not very attractive. I ordered some vinyl wallpaper from Sherwin Williams and also got the paste there. The wallpaper went up pretty easy but after one winter all the seams opened up. Doesn't look very attractive now. I wanted to order the commercial width roll but it would have cost waaaay too much so I wouldn't have seams. Unless you can get commercial width I wouldn't bother with wallpaper. This spring we are going to take the wallpaper off and put up laminate(formica) As for the nasty brown hull liner, we pulled all that off and are replacing that with beige indoor/outdoor carpet.
We own a 79 H30 and the bulkhead in the vbirth and head had this vinyl wallpaper that looked like grass cloth. It was stained with teak oil and not very attractive. I ordered some vinyl wallpaper from Sherwin Williams and also got the paste there. The wallpaper went up pretty easy but after one winter all the seams opened up. Doesn't look very attractive now. I wanted to order the commercial width roll but it would have cost waaaay too much so I wouldn't have seams. Unless you can get commercial width I wouldn't bother with wallpaper. This spring we are going to take the wallpaper off and put up laminate(formica) As for the nasty brown hull liner, we pulled all that off and are replacing that with beige indoor/outdoor carpet.
It can be salvaged, Tammy
Buy seam repair adhesive...it comes in a tube. Use a seam roller--and put a LOT of pressure on it--to get the seams to lie down again. If the edges still won't stay down, you may have to pull the wallcovering back a bit and apply some primer first. I put new "standard width" vinyl wallcovering over old on my boat...and btw, also got everything I needed from Sherwin Williams, including these instructions: Step 1: the old wallcovering must be washed down with mineral spirits to remove the plasticizers, and allowed to dry for at least 24 hours. (Be sure the cabin is well ventilated while you do this!) Step 2: "paint" every inch of the old with the correct primer...otherwise, the wallcovering paste won't stick to it. Apply the primer as carefully as you would if you were actually painting the wall, being especially careful to cover the areas next to doorframes, cabinetry etc completely...if you missed those areas, the edges of the wallcovering will lift. The primer must also dry for at least 24 hours. Step 3: hang the new wall covering using the right paste for the type of material (they're not all the same). Tips: The type of wallcovering that's like old fashioned "oil cloth" works much better than vinyl coated paper. Even continuous match wallcovering has a pattern that should be matched up. It's not easy to see, but if you match it, seams will be completely invisible. I found it easier to paste the wall than to try to set up scaffolding to paste the wallcovering in the confines of my cabin. And I used a regular 4" paint brush instead of a wallpaper paste brush. If you get some on the next strip, it washes off easily with a wet sponge. Use a large sponge or wallpaper brush to put it down against the wall...then after each strip is up, use a straight edge (I used a wooden yardstick cut in half) to get get ALL the bubbles out...don't quit till you're 100% certain they are all out. Use a seam roller--and put real pressure on it--till the edges of each piece no longer show at all. When cutting around door frames and cabinets, the razor knife blade should be VERY sharp...change it often. It's a time-consuming job...but if you follow every step meticulously, new over old will be indistinguishable from a factory installation--with NO seams showing--and will never lift.
Buy seam repair adhesive...it comes in a tube. Use a seam roller--and put a LOT of pressure on it--to get the seams to lie down again. If the edges still won't stay down, you may have to pull the wallcovering back a bit and apply some primer first. I put new "standard width" vinyl wallcovering over old on my boat...and btw, also got everything I needed from Sherwin Williams, including these instructions: Step 1: the old wallcovering must be washed down with mineral spirits to remove the plasticizers, and allowed to dry for at least 24 hours. (Be sure the cabin is well ventilated while you do this!) Step 2: "paint" every inch of the old with the correct primer...otherwise, the wallcovering paste won't stick to it. Apply the primer as carefully as you would if you were actually painting the wall, being especially careful to cover the areas next to doorframes, cabinetry etc completely...if you missed those areas, the edges of the wallcovering will lift. The primer must also dry for at least 24 hours. Step 3: hang the new wall covering using the right paste for the type of material (they're not all the same). Tips: The type of wallcovering that's like old fashioned "oil cloth" works much better than vinyl coated paper. Even continuous match wallcovering has a pattern that should be matched up. It's not easy to see, but if you match it, seams will be completely invisible. I found it easier to paste the wall than to try to set up scaffolding to paste the wallcovering in the confines of my cabin. And I used a regular 4" paint brush instead of a wallpaper paste brush. If you get some on the next strip, it washes off easily with a wet sponge. Use a large sponge or wallpaper brush to put it down against the wall...then after each strip is up, use a straight edge (I used a wooden yardstick cut in half) to get get ALL the bubbles out...don't quit till you're 100% certain they are all out. Use a seam roller--and put real pressure on it--till the edges of each piece no longer show at all. When cutting around door frames and cabinets, the razor knife blade should be VERY sharp...change it often. It's a time-consuming job...but if you follow every step meticulously, new over old will be indistinguishable from a factory installation--with NO seams showing--and will never lift.
I used "boat carpet " , adds some sound
insulation and I use the "hook" side of velcro (self sticking) to hang flashlights, radio instructions, a knife, things that you might need in a hurry. Sort of a vertical shelf. Think spring! Tom s/v GAIA
insulation and I use the "hook" side of velcro (self sticking) to hang flashlights, radio instructions, a knife, things that you might need in a hurry. Sort of a vertical shelf. Think spring! Tom s/v GAIA
Thanks Peggy
I remember buying primer but I think I only used it on the plywood bulkhead. The bulkhead that separates the head from v-birth has some white covering. I wish I had thought to apply the paste to the wall instead of the paper. It would have been so much easier. The original grass cloth covering appeared to be attached with what looked like rubber cement. I'll go get some seam sealer and try it when the weather warms up. The way winter is going here in Maine that should be July *pop
I remember buying primer but I think I only used it on the plywood bulkhead. The bulkhead that separates the head from v-birth has some white covering. I wish I had thought to apply the paste to the wall instead of the paper. It would have been so much easier. The original grass cloth covering appeared to be attached with what looked like rubber cement. I'll go get some seam sealer and try it when the weather warms up. The way winter is going here in Maine that should be July *pop
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