Replacing the glass on the hatch

[Michel16055]

Has anyone replaced the glass on their hatch? Mine has the sun baked crackling all over it.
Was it easy, hard, costly or would it have been better to buy a whole new hatch?
let me know.
Thanks
Michel
~~~_/)~~~

 

[redhead78]

I removed my entire hatch and brought it to a local glass shop, they put in clear plexi for 125.00. It really looks great my other is bluish crazed plastic u can barely see light thru....Red

 

[Stu Jackson]

It might help a bit for us to help you if you told us what kind of hatch it is.

 

[Dubo]

I am just finishing my second right now. I assume they are all pretty much the same..maybe not. I removed the hatch and covered with plastic covered OSB board to keep weather out of the opening. Once I got it home, I took a sharp retractable blade(the type you nip the tip off) and cut the old seal away. Just go down as far as you can and slide it across. It should cut easily. Once the inside and outside seal are sliced, the old lens should lift out. Clean out all the old caulk down to the metal. Fairly easy with right tool. I masked all the edges because I knew I was going to be messy. Also, do a dry fit and trim where the caulking will bond with the lens. By trim I mean trace the caulking area with the sharp blade very lightly, just enough to allow you to remove the protective film where caulk will be.

I replaced both of mine with Lexan cause I thought that is what was in there. Wrong! It was acrylic. Lexan cost me more but it is bullet proof. 1/4 inch 2 x 2 pieces cost me $74 delivered for both. You will need a table saw unless your supplier cuts it exact for you. A band saw is useful for the corners. Finish with edge sanding if needed. I used black Life-Seal $20.00. Make sure the new lens is not below the frame or water will pool on it I used a gray Lexan which looks lighter than the original but looks great. I can see outside easily but still have a tint.

Oh, and but sure to center the lens and caulk in stages. . First set the replacement in the frame on a bed of caulk. Once centered, walk away. Then follow up the next day and caulk to finish the inside with a smooth, finishing bead. Walk away. Then the third day flip it over and caulk the top and smooth it. Walk away. Don't forget the tape. Be sure to force as much caulk into the groove to avoid voids...you will have some but who cares.

I would say it took me about 2 hours for each hatch. Depends how picky you are. Total cost 120.00 for both. Plexiglass would have been a lot cheaper and probably just as good

I may have said too much but you get the idea I hope.

GL

 

[Stu Jackson]

GL, nice and helpful report. But, again, what kind of hatch???

There is a HUGE difference between, say, a hefty Bomar saloon hatch and a Lewmar V berth hatch.

 

[LuzSD]

specifics and photos would help so much!

GL, nice and helpful report. But, again, what kind of hatch???

There is a HUGE difference between, say, a hefty Bomar saloon hatch and a Lewmar V berth hatch.

Thanks Stu, we are still trying to figure out how to repair a V Berth Hatch and all this hatch reference is frustrating ....... I can see what kind of boat each OP is working on but no idea if it will give me useful info for our own situation ..... so thank you Mr. Jackson!!

 

[Michel16055]

Replacing glass on hatch

It might help a bit for us to help you if you told us what kind of hatch it is.

I believe it's a Lewmar. Going to my boat on saturday and will confirm this.
Thanks for the input so far.

 

[Bob J.]

http://www.selectplastics.com/

Check it out, they're in CT

 

[Michel16055]

It might help a bit for us to help you if you told us what kind of hatch it is.

Lewmar.
forward hatch: 19-5/8" x 19-5/8"
Cabin top hatch: 17-3/4" x 12-1/2"
Tempered glass is all crackled and crazed.

Thanks for the replies

 

[thinwater]

Lewmar.
forward hatch: 19-5/8" x 19-5/8"
Cabin top hatch: 17-3/4" x 12-1/2"
Tempered glass is all crackled and crazed.

Thanks for the replies

You will learn that folks here are sticklers for correct information. It's hard to help otherwise, and a word does make a difference.

It is almost certainly not tempered glass. Tempered glass (like the side window of your car) would either remain perfect, or shatter into 1000 parts. The appearance you describe sounds like Lexan (polycarbonate), since acrylic tends to only haze.

Why is this important?
a. Different materials take different sealers.
b. Flex properties are different (Lexan flexes more on impact and thus the frame may feature a wider lip).
c. Durability and performance is different. Glass doesn't age, but it does break and isn't found in that sort of hatch (some ports and windows). Lexan doesn't break easily... until it ages, which is relatively soon (wax and covering help). Extruded acrylic isn't too great, but cast acrylic lasts best, if it's thick enough.

 

[MrBee]

I always heard good recommendations about select plastics but 2 different times in the past year I emailed them for some info and neither time did they respond , so I found what I needed else where.

Brian

 

[Steve Dion]

Acrylic is the product of choice (not lexan).

Do a little research and lookup acrylic vs lexan. There are some issue with crazing & yellowing with lexan.

Be sure to purchase American Made acrylic. Dow795 is an excellent sealant/caulking for this job. I have been told that quality acrylic is around $20-$25/sq ft.

The caulking can be messy so be sure that you mask everything off.

Be sure that the frame is very clean. Try to remove all of the old caulking to ensure a good seal on the new job. I think that Dow makes a cleaner that they recommend.