I have to replace the exhaust hose in my 86 Hunter 31. Has anyone replaced theirs lately? Is there any major problem with doing this myself. I looked in the archives and it dosen't seem to be to complicated. The tough part of the replacement seems to be from the muffler to the outlet at the stern of the boat.
Replacing the Exhaust Hose
- Thread starter MarkW
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Exhaust Hose
Mark: I am a DIY guy who just hired that job done last fall on my 1983 H31. There are some jobs in life we shouldn't do and I felt that was one of them. I just didn't think I could get behind the fuel tank at 6' - 2" and 220 Lbs. If you are skinny or have a midget buddy you can toss back there - go for it, otherwise save your frustration and pay your yard mechanic to take care of it. Cheers, Greg W. "SlipAway"
Mark: I am a DIY guy who just hired that job done last fall on my 1983 H31. There are some jobs in life we shouldn't do and I felt that was one of them. I just didn't think I could get behind the fuel tank at 6' - 2" and 220 Lbs. If you are skinny or have a midget buddy you can toss back there - go for it, otherwise save your frustration and pay your yard mechanic to take care of it. Cheers, Greg W. "SlipAway"
Hire someone
Late last summer I noticed oily water in the engine sump area. I found out it was not oil but disel fuel. Replaced fuel line and exchanger water line (there was some water mixed in with the fuel). Like Mark saidi "If you are young and skinny go far it". I paid less than $250.00 to have it fixed. Good luck, Irish Rogue
Late last summer I noticed oily water in the engine sump area. I found out it was not oil but disel fuel. Replaced fuel line and exchanger water line (there was some water mixed in with the fuel). Like Mark saidi "If you are young and skinny go far it". I paid less than $250.00 to have it fixed. Good luck, Irish Rogue
I had to do mine last year....
I used a roto cutter to cut an access panel through the bulkhead separating the aft berth from the lazerette. Now I have full access to the lazerette from the aft berth by simply removing a panel. I even have access to the area behind the fuel tank where the exhaust and scupper lines connect. I replaced the fuel line, a leaky scupper line, removed the old fuel filter and installed a new one, and replaced a leaky exhaust line. Cutting the access panel was one of the best things Ive done to the boat. I no longer have problems servicing anything in the deep lazerette.
I used a roto cutter to cut an access panel through the bulkhead separating the aft berth from the lazerette. Now I have full access to the lazerette from the aft berth by simply removing a panel. I even have access to the area behind the fuel tank where the exhaust and scupper lines connect. I replaced the fuel line, a leaky scupper line, removed the old fuel filter and installed a new one, and replaced a leaky exhaust line. Cutting the access panel was one of the best things Ive done to the boat. I no longer have problems servicing anything in the deep lazerette.
Good idea... but....
I like the idea of cutting an access panel through this wall, so I ran it by a friend of mine who's a boatright. He thought it'd be fine, but offered one caution. Having once conferred with a friend who worked at Hunter, the friend had told him that everything in a Hunter was put there for a very specific reason. If something didn't add to the structural integrity or serve the decorative marketing needs, it didn't go on a hunter. Hence, if there's a 3/4" piece of plywood there, you can bet your bottom dollar there's a structural reason for it. One should be cautious when cutting a hole large enough to compromise the structural integrity this board was designed to provide. My friend suggested that after cutting the access panel, I use some pieces of hardwood to make a lip around the edges that'll hold the panel in place when it's returned to the board. A generous number of screws should be used to hold these wooden lips in place, and several screws used to secure the panel to these lips. The combination of screws securing the lips to the wall, and panel to the lips, should help restore some of the stability lost when cutting out the panel. This sounds to me like good advice.
I like the idea of cutting an access panel through this wall, so I ran it by a friend of mine who's a boatright. He thought it'd be fine, but offered one caution. Having once conferred with a friend who worked at Hunter, the friend had told him that everything in a Hunter was put there for a very specific reason. If something didn't add to the structural integrity or serve the decorative marketing needs, it didn't go on a hunter. Hence, if there's a 3/4" piece of plywood there, you can bet your bottom dollar there's a structural reason for it. One should be cautious when cutting a hole large enough to compromise the structural integrity this board was designed to provide. My friend suggested that after cutting the access panel, I use some pieces of hardwood to make a lip around the edges that'll hold the panel in place when it's returned to the board. A generous number of screws should be used to hold these wooden lips in place, and several screws used to secure the panel to these lips. The combination of screws securing the lips to the wall, and panel to the lips, should help restore some of the stability lost when cutting out the panel. This sounds to me like good advice.
Space is tight
but it is do-able. I did my H34 which may have a little more room but the job only took an hour. Once you have made the turn past the tank, its easy. Its getting tucked and turned past the tank so you face toward the stern that's hard. The only thing I would advise is to make the loop a little bigger so the hose is not strained as much. Mine developed a leak at the loop because of the strain. After 20 years, that much strain in a loop caused it to crack. Good luck.
but it is do-able. I did my H34 which may have a little more room but the job only took an hour. Once you have made the turn past the tank, its easy. Its getting tucked and turned past the tank so you face toward the stern that's hard. The only thing I would advise is to make the loop a little bigger so the hose is not strained as much. Mine developed a leak at the loop because of the strain. After 20 years, that much strain in a loop caused it to crack. Good luck.
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