Replacing Side Windows on Our Catilina 30 Mark 2 Tall Rig

kappykaplan · Apr 12, 2020

Seat with Dow 795.

Ralph Johnstone · Apr 12, 2020

Take a look through the archives here and you'll find a wealth of information on replacing frameless portlights and hatchlights. Take the best points. Tell hubby, in no uncertain terms, this is NOT a project where you want to wing it as you go along so he's got some reading in front of him.

Glad to see he's shaping his own lenses as this is something I haven't seen posted yet. Saves $$$$. The original lenses have to be removed in one piece and the archives show how. If he's into routers, tell him a template bit will do a flawless job +/- 0.001" of copying the original lenses:

If he's not into routers, tell him to do so. In the overall cost of the project, it's minor and he's then set up to do every portlight/hatchlight on the boat. Sorry I can't give you the Catalina thickness but on our Hunter 310, they are 3/8". Keep the acrylic smokey for your privacy.

Best of luck on this.

kloudie1 · Apr 13, 2020

This is one of the best videos.. Do it like this guy.. 3M sticky then 795 ..https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8&t=2s

bawlmer · Apr 13, 2020

Last year I spent $$$$ on a new set of windws for my 270 from Catalina Direct. They are 1/4" thick. The very first thing I would do is check and see if the window sits flat against the side of the cabin or there is any curve to it whatsoever. If there is a cuve the installation is a completely different effort. The portlight I was trying to replace is curved. I have a thread on this forum which speaks to it. To this day I have not attempted a replacement. You must either drill holes in the ends of the window and cabin and screw the window into the cabin to hold the window in place while the adhesive cures (absolutely unacceptable to me) or construct a jig to force the window in place during the cure. I do not have a wood shop so I have asked my mechanic for a quote to install it. If the window is flat then you are home free. I agree with Ralph as this is a complex job and requires much research and prep. Best of luck.

Ralph Johnstone · Apr 13, 2020

kloudie1 said:
This is one of the best videos.. Do it like this guy.. 3M sticky then 795 ..https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8&t=2s

I feel compelled to repeat @kloudie1 's post re Boatworks Today as being the best tutorial by head and shoulders on installing portlights that I have seen to date. I have seen them all and this is the one by a mile I will be using when I get off my duff and finally get around to replacing two of mine.

Ralph Johnstone · Apr 13, 2020

bawlmer said:
To this day I have not attempted a replacement. You must either drill holes in the ends of the window and cabin and screw the window into the cabin to hold the window in place while the adhesive cures (absolutely unacceptable to me)

@bawlmer don't be so reluctant to drill holes into you boat and drive in screws

. It isn't all that painful. Trust me

.

See my reply #6 here:

Window Replacement

I few months ago I purchased a set of replacement windows from SBO for my Catalina 270. I checked them for fit yesterday and everything was fine. There is a slight forward to aft curvature in the window opening. Window is flexible enough so no problem there either. When you install the new...

forums.sailboatowners.com

The temporary screw holes are invisible when filled in with black DC 795.

When I get around to doing my two ports, I'll be using the ultra high bond tape method and not bothering with screws.

captcoho · Apr 14, 2020

Remove the screws from the existing port light and use a dead blow hammer on the inside to knock it out. The new deadlight will not have screw holes...You Do Not Need Screws ! (Glazers use Dow 795 to hold huge panes on curtain walls on tall buildings)
Scrape, clean with acetone and sand with 150 grit to give the Dow 795 something to grab
There are some video tutorials just google as well on this forum
Do Not remove the protective covering on the new pane, but have someone hold it in the opening, while you trace the opening and remove an 1/16" more on just the edge to be adhered.... Your boat should have a subtle recess where the Deadlight fits
I made props from the life lines and rail, and put carpet or similar to hold against the pane while the 795 cured. On the outside tape off the area around the new pane leaving an extra 1/8" and use an adequate amount of sealant so the entire area is covered. Then press into opening and hold in place with the pre made props. (One you-tube vid shows a guy using sandbags) Tool the joint, after the sealant has cured, the next carefully remove the protective film from deadlight, clean up with acetone if needed.....Like just about everything, it's all in the prep... And much easier to do during lay-up in the yard