I've decided to replace the wires all around on my C22, except perhaps backstay. Gonna have Tulsa Sail Craft cut them and swage them. Any tricks I should know? Any backstay thoughts?
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J
John Visser
J
John Visser
more on Sta-Lok
The reason I say this is that there are many advantages to Sta-Lok terminals over machine swaged. They could be more money, though. Among the advanteages are that they are reuseable, they drain of water, unlike machinee swaged, they can be opened for inspection, and the are at least as strong, if not stronger. I used them on my C36 for all shrouds and stays. jv
The reason I say this is that there are many advantages to Sta-Lok terminals over machine swaged. They could be more money, though. Among the advanteages are that they are reuseable, they drain of water, unlike machinee swaged, they can be opened for inspection, and the are at least as strong, if not stronger. I used them on my C36 for all shrouds and stays. jv
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Dan
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Bayard Gross
backstay adjuster very desirable
Unless you have already committed yourself to your local outfit, I think you should check out the stay and shroud kit available from Catalina Direct. I used them myself and I am very pleased, not to mention the price, which includes new turnbuckles, is quite resonable. For your forestay, I think you should definitely put in a toggle at the top and have a threaded stud at the bottom. This will allow you to easily install a jib furler later. For the backstay, I think you should definitely use the backstay adjuster kit from Catalina Direct. I put one in myself and it makes a world of difference. Further, depending on the age of your C-22, it is very wise to install the bow chain plate reinforcement kit from Catalina Direct. This uses some hardware to connect the bottom of the bow chain plate (on the inside) with a turnbuckle to the bow ring. Nearly all C-22's have no plywood support where the bow chain plate is located and you can literally rip the bow apart with forestay tension. Finally, unless you have one, invest in a Loos Tension Gauge.
Unless you have already committed yourself to your local outfit, I think you should check out the stay and shroud kit available from Catalina Direct. I used them myself and I am very pleased, not to mention the price, which includes new turnbuckles, is quite resonable. For your forestay, I think you should definitely put in a toggle at the top and have a threaded stud at the bottom. This will allow you to easily install a jib furler later. For the backstay, I think you should definitely use the backstay adjuster kit from Catalina Direct. I put one in myself and it makes a world of difference. Further, depending on the age of your C-22, it is very wise to install the bow chain plate reinforcement kit from Catalina Direct. This uses some hardware to connect the bottom of the bow chain plate (on the inside) with a turnbuckle to the bow ring. Nearly all C-22's have no plywood support where the bow chain plate is located and you can literally rip the bow apart with forestay tension. Finally, unless you have one, invest in a Loos Tension Gauge.
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tom b
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John Visser
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Dan
The plan
I'll remove what's on the boat and carry it to Tulsa where I will breathe down the neck of the guy making the shrouds and stays. No furling in my future. My turnbuckles are fine and sound. I'll take one of them as well for reference. I just need wires with swaged eyes, and I'm a cheapskate who likes to sail a lot more than I like maintenance. Thanks.
I'll remove what's on the boat and carry it to Tulsa where I will breathe down the neck of the guy making the shrouds and stays. No furling in my future. My turnbuckles are fine and sound. I'll take one of them as well for reference. I just need wires with swaged eyes, and I'm a cheapskate who likes to sail a lot more than I like maintenance. Thanks.
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Bayard Gross
wire size for C-22
The wire size for C-22's is 1/8" for stays and upper and lower shrouds. I beleive very early C-22's used 3/32" on the upper and lower shrouds, however, 1/8" should be used throughout.
The wire size for C-22's is 1/8" for stays and upper and lower shrouds. I beleive very early C-22's used 3/32" on the upper and lower shrouds, however, 1/8" should be used throughout.
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Aldo
Coated Shrouds
Dan: The only other thing that you might want to consider is having the shrouds made from coated wire, (as in plastic coated wire). Many years ago, the man who first told me to check out Catalina 22's, told me that he had his shrouds custom made, and he had them made with coated wire. We always had some type of tubing on our shrouds on our boat, below the spreaders, to keep our drifter from chaffing. Now is the time for you to consider having your shrouds made from plastic coated wire. I'm always very cautious about adding anything to my boat that causes aerodynamic drag, but as long as the coated shroud wire is as strong as the uncoated, I would still make the shrouds from the coated wire. But that's just my opinion. Aldo
Dan: The only other thing that you might want to consider is having the shrouds made from coated wire, (as in plastic coated wire). Many years ago, the man who first told me to check out Catalina 22's, told me that he had his shrouds custom made, and he had them made with coated wire. We always had some type of tubing on our shrouds on our boat, below the spreaders, to keep our drifter from chaffing. Now is the time for you to consider having your shrouds made from plastic coated wire. I'm always very cautious about adding anything to my boat that causes aerodynamic drag, but as long as the coated shroud wire is as strong as the uncoated, I would still make the shrouds from the coated wire. But that's just my opinion. Aldo
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John Visser
Whoa!
I think coated wire is a bad idea! First, this stuff may not be rated for the loads we're talking about here. Second, stainless steel need oxygen to resist corrosion, and the plastic would not allow it to "breath." It would also trap water.
I think coated wire is a bad idea! First, this stuff may not be rated for the loads we're talking about here. Second, stainless steel need oxygen to resist corrosion, and the plastic would not allow it to "breath." It would also trap water.
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Dan
New Plan
Turns out Tulsa Sail Craft is defunct, and other sources are not as cost efficient as Catalina Direct. So, I bit, and now I eagerly await the new shrouds and stays and turnbuckles.
Turns out Tulsa Sail Craft is defunct, and other sources are not as cost efficient as Catalina Direct. So, I bit, and now I eagerly await the new shrouds and stays and turnbuckles.
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