My husband and I are replacing the salon windows as the existing ones are plexi and have seen better days. We have purchased a couple sheets of Lexan to replace them with. My question is this. Has anyone else done this? I figure we remove the old windows, make a templete from the inside of window frame and then replace the new windows using some sort of marine adheasive, sealent. We havent done it yet as we are afraid to make that first move which is removal of the plexi. Once that is off we have no option but to get going on it. Im sure the plexi will probably crumble when we remove it. If anyone has suggestions to best tackle this I would love to hear them.
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Nancy, I think that your plan sounds like a good one. I've never had to replace these, but I do remember removing mine from my 222 and re caulking them. I think that the first time that I did it I used a silicon caulking, and it didn't seem to work out too well. I don't think that the silicon caulking sticks all that well. My windows are probably different than the ones on your boat. They are thick and they don't fit into a frame. They fit over the opening, and they're screwed in place. You may want to use a polysulfide adhesive sealant like 3-M. Years ago, I broke the lens on my forward hatch, and instead of replacing the hatch, I replaced the lens with the same material that you are going to use. I did it the very same way that you plan to do it. Only, I used a silicon on that too, and I had problems with leaks. I later wound up using a polysulfide. Once in a great while it will develop a few drops of water during a rain storm, and I'll have to gouge out around the edge of the lens and the frame, and re caulk it. I'd say go ahead and do it, but I wouldn't use 5200 on it. You may need to remove it again some day and that stuff holds like iron. Good luck. Joe
Nancy, I think that your plan sounds like a good one. I've never had to replace these, but I do remember removing mine from my 222 and re caulking them. I think that the first time that I did it I used a silicon caulking, and it didn't seem to work out too well. I don't think that the silicon caulking sticks all that well. My windows are probably different than the ones on your boat. They are thick and they don't fit into a frame. They fit over the opening, and they're screwed in place. You may want to use a polysulfide adhesive sealant like 3-M. Years ago, I broke the lens on my forward hatch, and instead of replacing the hatch, I replaced the lens with the same material that you are going to use. I did it the very same way that you plan to do it. Only, I used a silicon on that too, and I had problems with leaks. I later wound up using a polysulfide. Once in a great while it will develop a few drops of water during a rain storm, and I'll have to gouge out around the edge of the lens and the frame, and re caulk it. I'd say go ahead and do it, but I wouldn't use 5200 on it. You may need to remove it again some day and that stuff holds like iron. Good luck. Joe
Nancy, I think that your plan sounds like a good one. I've never had to replace these, but I do remember removing mine from my 222 and re caulking them. I think that the first time that I did it I used a silicon caulking, and it didn't seem to work out too well. I don't think that the silicon caulking sticks all that well. My windows are probably different than the ones on your boat. They are thick and they don't fit into a frame. They fit over the opening, and they're screwed in place. You may want to use a polysulfide adhesive sealant like 3-M. Years ago, I broke the lens on my forward hatch, and instead of replacing the hatch, I replaced the lens with the same material that you are going to use. I did it the very same way that you plan to do it. Only, I used a silicon on that too, and I had problems with leaks. I later wound up using a polysulfide. Once in a great while it will develop a few drops of water during a rain storm, and I'll have to gouge out around the edge of the lens and the frame, and re caulk it. I'd say go ahead and do it, but I wouldn't use 5200 on it. You may need to remove it again some day and that stuff holds like iron. Good luck. Joe
Nancy, I think that your plan sounds like a good one. I've never had to replace these, but I do remember removing mine from my 222 and re caulking them. I think that the first time that I did it I used a silicon caulking, and it didn't seem to work out too well. I don't think that the silicon caulking sticks all that well. My windows are probably different than the ones on your boat. They are thick and they don't fit into a frame. They fit over the opening, and they're screwed in place. You may want to use a polysulfide adhesive sealant like 3-M. Years ago, I broke the lens on my forward hatch, and instead of replacing the hatch, I replaced the lens with the same material that you are going to use. I did it the very same way that you plan to do it. Only, I used a silicon on that too, and I had problems with leaks. I later wound up using a polysulfide. Once in a great while it will develop a few drops of water during a rain storm, and I'll have to gouge out around the edge of the lens and the frame, and re caulk it. I'd say go ahead and do it, but I wouldn't use 5200 on it. You may need to remove it again some day and that stuff holds like iron. Good luck. Joe
Thanks Joe
Thanks Joe for your response. I believe my windows are like yours. They are pretty thick and are about twice the size of the actual window opening. The last person to do this job did not put any fasteners on. They just used monsterous amounts of a black rubber gooey adhesive/caulk. We did remove one whole side last weekend. It took several hours and was a royal pain. We purchased 100% silicone sealant especially for lexan sheet and other plastics. The tube says that it is excellant for marine applications above the waterline. We are headed back down this weekend to fit the new windows. I do blog about our projects and have the window project with photos up now. If you want to take a look it is www.tybeetime.blogspot.com . You will see that our windows like yours do not fit in a frame but are placed on the fiberglass over the opening. Wish us luck and thank you for your advice. I will have to tell hubby what you said about your adheasive/sealent. Nancy s/v Tybee Time
Thanks Joe for your response. I believe my windows are like yours. They are pretty thick and are about twice the size of the actual window opening. The last person to do this job did not put any fasteners on. They just used monsterous amounts of a black rubber gooey adhesive/caulk. We did remove one whole side last weekend. It took several hours and was a royal pain. We purchased 100% silicone sealant especially for lexan sheet and other plastics. The tube says that it is excellant for marine applications above the waterline. We are headed back down this weekend to fit the new windows. I do blog about our projects and have the window project with photos up now. If you want to take a look it is www.tybeetime.blogspot.com . You will see that our windows like yours do not fit in a frame but are placed on the fiberglass over the opening. Wish us luck and thank you for your advice. I will have to tell hubby what you said about your adheasive/sealent. Nancy s/v Tybee Time
Cabin Windows
Nancy, My windows are all screwed in place. If the screw holes are available on your windows, it would be a good idea to purchase some Stainless Steel pan head wood screws to re-attach them after the caulking. You're probably better off going with a caulking that they recommend for the Lexan, as certain types of Polysulfide caulking aren't compatible with other products such as deck plates, and can dry out certain plastics and cause cracking, so I'm told. Good luck with this project! Joe
Nancy, My windows are all screwed in place. If the screw holes are available on your windows, it would be a good idea to purchase some Stainless Steel pan head wood screws to re-attach them after the caulking. You're probably better off going with a caulking that they recommend for the Lexan, as certain types of Polysulfide caulking aren't compatible with other products such as deck plates, and can dry out certain plastics and cause cracking, so I'm told. Good luck with this project! Joe
windows
Nancy I have tried to respond to your request az few times,but it always kicks me out Contact me @ js375_2000@yahoo.com and I'll give my story
Nancy I have tried to respond to your request az few times,but it always kicks me out Contact me @ js375_2000@yahoo.com and I'll give my story
Nancy, When we replace windows we stay within the recommended thickness and use 3m-101 as a sealant. Be sure to drill the screw holes over-size to allow for expansion of the Lexan. Otherwise, you will have cracking of the new window panes. A sharp chisel will remove any old caulking. After setting the 101 excess can be removed with a exacto blade (carefully). An easy job, just take your time. Jim, Windwalker Boats
Polysulfide or Silicone?
Nancy, I think that if I was going to pull my windows out again to re caulk them, and I did it once, I'd go with 3-M Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 4000 UV. I never knew about the screw holes causing cracks, but it sounds like an excellent idea because I can remember seeing cracks on the windows of my friend's O'Day Weekender. The Weekender was built in the 1990s by a friend of mine who bought the O'Day 192 molds after O'Day folded, and he only built about 6 of these boats. I would caulk the windows and just get the screws snug but not too tight. Let the caulking set up for a couple of days, then come back and tighten the screws some more. I used 5200 on a lens that I made for my hatch years ago, and today I get a small leak when it rains hard. I have gouged out around the lens and frame and filled it in with Polysulfide caulking, but looking back now, I wish that I had just used the 3M instead of the 5200. Just as long as the Polysulfide has no adverse affect on the materials being bonded, this is what I'd use. Also, I'd refrain from using certain hull cleaning agents that could eat out caulking. I've been down this road before, and now I'm a firm believer in good Ole' soap and water. Good luck! Joe
Nancy, I think that if I was going to pull my windows out again to re caulk them, and I did it once, I'd go with 3-M Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 4000 UV. I never knew about the screw holes causing cracks, but it sounds like an excellent idea because I can remember seeing cracks on the windows of my friend's O'Day Weekender. The Weekender was built in the 1990s by a friend of mine who bought the O'Day 192 molds after O'Day folded, and he only built about 6 of these boats. I would caulk the windows and just get the screws snug but not too tight. Let the caulking set up for a couple of days, then come back and tighten the screws some more. I used 5200 on a lens that I made for my hatch years ago, and today I get a small leak when it rains hard. I have gouged out around the lens and frame and filled it in with Polysulfide caulking, but looking back now, I wish that I had just used the 3M instead of the 5200. Just as long as the Polysulfide has no adverse affect on the materials being bonded, this is what I'd use. Also, I'd refrain from using certain hull cleaning agents that could eat out caulking. I've been down this road before, and now I'm a firm believer in good Ole' soap and water. Good luck! Joe
Polysulfide or Silicone?
Nancy, Silicon would work fine. It acts as a seal if it is under compression. You can't top coat something in silicon and expect it to seal. Under compression it becomes a gasket. 3M - 5200 is a "non-removable" product. I just like the removable characteristics of 101 for the "squeeze out" better than silicon. If you use silicon then have a spray bottle of alcohol to clean up with. That works pretty well.
Nancy, Silicon would work fine. It acts as a seal if it is under compression. You can't top coat something in silicon and expect it to seal. Under compression it becomes a gasket. 3M - 5200 is a "non-removable" product. I just like the removable characteristics of 101 for the "squeeze out" better than silicon. If you use silicon then have a spray bottle of alcohol to clean up with. That works pretty well.
Jim V is right
We just installed a new port on our 272....ordered the replacement hatch from Rudy...We did everything correctly except no one mentioned drilling the screw holes larger than required to allow for expansion / contraction....the result after 4 months..cracks everywhere emenating from the screw holes...I wish I had read this post ahead of time.....In our case it was as fall came that the port evidently contracted as the air cooled. It didn't do it at all after the spring installation.
We just installed a new port on our 272....ordered the replacement hatch from Rudy...We did everything correctly except no one mentioned drilling the screw holes larger than required to allow for expansion / contraction....the result after 4 months..cracks everywhere emenating from the screw holes...I wish I had read this post ahead of time.....In our case it was as fall came that the port evidently contracted as the air cooled. It didn't do it at all after the spring installation.
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