Replacing Propane System

[Capt Gary175]

I'm replacing an original (1987) propane system on a Pearson 39-2. The copper piping looks in good shape and was run/fastened professionally. The entire system was reported by the previous owners to be working with no leaks (I purchased the boat this past October) however the rubber hoses look pretty degraded and the regulator is rusting. The only rubber hoses are a short pigtail from the tank to the regulator and a 3 1/2 ft section connecting the gimballed stove. I will be replacing the hoses, the regulator and the pressure gauge. I will also be adding a solenoid (and probably a vapor detection system) because the original system did not have one.

The first problem I have is disconnecting the copper threaded fittings from the old regulator to the run of copper piping (all within a properly vented propane locker). They appear to be frozen on, and I don't want to damage the copper piping by applying too much force. Is there a lubricant I can use to free up some of the threaded fittings on a propane system?

I also need to bring the 2-six pound tanks up to code, or buy new propane tanks (for an additional $200 each! ouch). Is it possible to have older tanks upgraded to meet new standards?

Any insights are much appreciated!!

 

[Steve Dion]

Capt Gary:

You may want to check with someone like Sure Marine (http://suremarine.com/) before you make any of the upgrades. The standards for some systems have changed since 1987. For some reason I believe that copper is no longer allowed in a propane system. They are also a good source of propane parts.

 

[Benny17441]

Past problems with copper tubing came as a result of improper installations which did not address the material's rigidity. If properly installed and suspended it will outlast the necessary rubber hose connectors, as you have observed. I could foresee a possible problem with an insurance survey which may point out the departure from current standarts. Insurance underwriters will likely request the system be brought into compliance or deny coverage. Whatever you do, do not use a torch to apply heat in an attempt to release the fittings without first thoroughly purging the gas from the system. If possible the best way may be to cut the tubing and attach new fittings.

 

[Capt Gary175]

Capt Gary:

You may want to check with someone like Sure Marine (http://suremarine.com/) before you make any of the upgrades. The standards for some systems have changed since 1987. For some reason I believe that copper is no longer allowed in a propane system. They are also a good source of propane parts.

Steve,

Thanks for the link. It was interesting when I had the survey done, the surveyor said very little about the propane system other than I may want to upgrade the tanks. He wrote nothing negative about it in the survey report. He was however, very critical of other things that in my opinion, not nearly as important as a safe propane system. I've read differeing opinions on copper piping and am struggling with the best decision. It would significantly complicate the project to remove the copper, but I don't want to compromise on a safe system.

Thanks again.

Gary

 

[Ross]

Copper if allowed to vibrate will work harden and crack. Properly supported it will be reliable for a lifetime. Hoses will bond to the copper and just need to be removed by whatever force is necessary. I Have seen perfectly reliable propane supply systems in houses that have been in place for fifty years.

 

[Capt Gary175]

Past problems with copper tubing came as a result of improper installations which did not address the material's rigidity. If properly installed and suspended it will outlast the necessary rubber hose connectors, as you have observed. I could foresee a possible problem with an insurance survey which may point out the departure from current standarts. Insurance underwriters will likely request the system be brought into compliance or deny coverage. Whatever you do, do not use a torch to apply heat in an attempt to release the fittings without first thoroughly purging the gas from the system. If possible the best way may be to cut the tubing and attach new fittings.

Thanks Benny.

I may end up having to cut the end off and attach a new fitting. Both tanks are disconnected and the system is purged. The problem is that I only have about an inch of exposed copper to work with before it disappears through the locker wall. I'm a little upset that the surveyor didn't say anything about the propane system in the written report. The flip side of that is the insurance company hasn't asked any questions about it. I don't want to compromise on a safe system however, so I want to do it right. I'm pretty confident the copper is in good shape except for at the fitting in the propane locker. Thanks for the input!

Gary

 

[Lost Parent]

I work in the RV industry and have found if the copper is old you will have a hard time re flaring it especially with only one inch showing , I ran all new rubeer hose to each appliance seperatley and terminated them at the regulator and in the end did a pressure test with a manometer

 

[Capt Gary175]

I work in the RV industry and have found if the copper is old you will have a hard time re flaring it especially with only one inch showing , I ran all new rubeer hose to each appliance seperatley and terminated them at the regulator and in the end did a pressure test with a manometer

Thanks. I am only running to the galley stove so it would only be one hose which simplifies things a little. Unfortunately, the piping at present runs through some conduit and some very tight bulkhead openings that I would probably have to open up a little and add antichafe for the rubber hose. Not looking forward to the job, but it isn't rocket surgery. I guess I'll just have to grin and bear it.

 

[Steve Dion]

Here is some advise and examples of what to do and what not to do.

http://www.pcmarinesurveys.com/Propane Boat Installation.htm

 

[NYSail]

Hey capt.

Wondering what you ended up doing. My system was rusted and needed to be upgraded. Getting ready to replace everything w/ trident marine regulator, solenoid, tank and rubber supply hose. I am replacing the copper as well with trident hose. Would love to hear any opinions / "I would have done differently" comments.