replacing portlights
- Thread starter sailor832
- Start date
Hi,
I replaced all the portlights in my 2011 H36e this spring. I tried to find the same information you are looking for. No luck. I removed them. The side ports were 9/16" thick. The forward "windshield" was 3/8" as it needs to bend more. At the local plastics fabricator 1/2" was the max that they carried, anything thicker was custom so I went with that. I read on-line from several sources 3/8" thick is all you need. I removed the old windows so the shop could use them to make templates. Said they couldn't use the windows as templates because of the bevel.
I installed the new windows using high strength 1/8" thick glazing tape. I wanted the 1/8" thickness to provide a gap for the sealant. I used Dow 795. The old windows were held down with screws. Many posts said to hold them down with screws until the sealant cures and then remove and fill with sealant. I chose not to use screws and weighed the windows down using dumbbell weights.
The most difficult part of the project was getting the fiberglass frames level for the 1/8" tape to bond evenly.
I replaced all the portlights in my 2011 H36e this spring. I tried to find the same information you are looking for. No luck. I removed them. The side ports were 9/16" thick. The forward "windshield" was 3/8" as it needs to bend more. At the local plastics fabricator 1/2" was the max that they carried, anything thicker was custom so I went with that. I read on-line from several sources 3/8" thick is all you need. I removed the old windows so the shop could use them to make templates. Said they couldn't use the windows as templates because of the bevel.
I installed the new windows using high strength 1/8" thick glazing tape. I wanted the 1/8" thickness to provide a gap for the sealant. I used Dow 795. The old windows were held down with screws. Many posts said to hold them down with screws until the sealant cures and then remove and fill with sealant. I chose not to use screws and weighed the windows down using dumbbell weights.
The most difficult part of the project was getting the fiberglass frames level for the 1/8" tape to bond evenly.
