replacing packing

[CalebD]

I have heard of that referred tp as a 'shaft log'

below the stuffing box to the hull cutlass bearing. It is a tube. I have not checked up on my own shaft log in a while and may have to replace it while re-doing the cutlass bearing. On the other hand, mine is a 1967 boat and while I hope the shaft log was replaced at some point it may have been built with a very durable material back then. I need to check this out on my boat more thoroughly so thanks for bringing it up.

 

[CalebD]

I have heard of that referred tp as a 'shaft log'

below the stuffing box to the hull cutlass bearing. It is a tube. I have not checked up on my own shaft log in a while and may have to replace it while re-doing the cutlass bearing. On the other hand, mine is a 1967 boat and while I hope the shaft log was replaced at some point it may have been built with a very durable material back then. I need to check this out on my boat more thoroughly so thanks for bringing it up.

 

[Ross]

The term shaft log is a carry over from wooden

boats. Plastic boats have a stern tube. The packing gland/stuffing box is fitted to one end and the shaft runs through it and may be supported by a cutlass bearing in the stern tube or in a separate strut.

 

[Ross]

The term shaft log is a carry over from wooden

boats. Plastic boats have a stern tube. The packing gland/stuffing box is fitted to one end and the shaft runs through it and may be supported by a cutlass bearing in the stern tube or in a separate strut.

 

[Bill O'D]

Compromise

Look at the stuffing box.Are a lot of threads showing?That suggests you only have 2 rows of flax.If so, you can reach a compromise.Do the clay procedure and put just one row of flax in. Tighten up.That will last you at least a season.Then when you pull, you can restuff it all.Here's the full monty...Stuffing box best replaced on the hards, not in the waterREMOVALUnscrew thin brass jam nut to free up big oneUnscrew big brass nut completely.Spray WD-40 inside to loosen up flax.Turn corkscrew pick into first layer, pull Vise Grip offers better leverageRepeat until all layers removed 2 if was chinzy, 3 more likelyClear out brass seating of any loose debris so new flax sits wellINSTALLBuy 13 inches Teflon 1/4 inch to cut into three piecesCut the end at 45 degrees to dovetail with next cut, 45 degreesTurn first wrap tight, mark with blade (or do at home with 1-inch stanchion)Cut with share razor knife or Dremel sawCut remaining 2 wraps to same sizePoke first one in clockwise by turning big nut slowlyMark where it started with red penScrew down onto shaft to pack, by hand onlyLoosen and repeat two more timesDo not overtighten, or will burn flax and not seat properlyTESTWhen launch, be prepared to tighten using wrench keep jam nut looseShould be no drips at rest, do not overtightenIn gear, should be no more than 1-3 drops per minute preferably noneOptimum is no drips in gear “1-3 is an old wives tale,” says Fred at YardTighten one flat at a time while in gearIf the big nut is warm, back off as too tight burning the flax (unlikely)Always retighten the jam cleat to avoid inadvertent looseningWhen it’s right, try a day or week later takes time, be patientCheck again for three weeks then three months laterShould last three or four years okay to tighten one flat a time, over time

 

[Bill O'D]

Compromise

Look at the stuffing box.Are a lot of threads showing?That suggests you only have 2 rows of flax.If so, you can reach a compromise.Do the clay procedure and put just one row of flax in. Tighten up.That will last you at least a season.Then when you pull, you can restuff it all.Here's the full monty...Stuffing box best replaced on the hards, not in the waterREMOVALUnscrew thin brass jam nut to free up big oneUnscrew big brass nut completely.Spray WD-40 inside to loosen up flax.Turn corkscrew pick into first layer, pull Vise Grip offers better leverageRepeat until all layers removed 2 if was chinzy, 3 more likelyClear out brass seating of any loose debris so new flax sits wellINSTALLBuy 13 inches Teflon 1/4 inch to cut into three piecesCut the end at 45 degrees to dovetail with next cut, 45 degreesTurn first wrap tight, mark with blade (or do at home with 1-inch stanchion)Cut with share razor knife or Dremel sawCut remaining 2 wraps to same sizePoke first one in clockwise by turning big nut slowlyMark where it started with red penScrew down onto shaft to pack, by hand onlyLoosen and repeat two more timesDo not overtighten, or will burn flax and not seat properlyTESTWhen launch, be prepared to tighten using wrench keep jam nut looseShould be no drips at rest, do not overtightenIn gear, should be no more than 1-3 drops per minute preferably noneOptimum is no drips in gear “1-3 is an old wives tale,” says Fred at YardTighten one flat at a time while in gearIf the big nut is warm, back off as too tight burning the flax (unlikely)Always retighten the jam cleat to avoid inadvertent looseningWhen it’s right, try a day or week later takes time, be patientCheck again for three weeks then three months laterShould last three or four years okay to tighten one flat a time, over time

 

[Maine Sail]

Fred at yard...

Fred at yard needs to give better advice!!Quote:"In gear, should be no more than 1-3 drops per minute preferably noneOptimum is no drips in gear “1-3 is an old wives tale,” says Fred at Yard"ALL traditional packing SHOULD drip some when running including Gore GFO which is the best of the best. Sometimes GFO can be made to be drip free but it's rare and is a delicate balance of heat vs. drips vs. dry. Perhaps Fred at the yard like to sell new prop shafts? The real test is HEAT there should be NO MORE than a 30 degree differential between the ocean water temp and the temperature of the stuffing box when running. Obviously the closest temp differential, like 10 degrees, with satisfactory drips/minute will last the longest and do the least amount of shaft damage. This temp differential usually winds up being a few drops to as may as 20 drops per minute depending on the condition of your shaft. Not ALL stuffing boxes will be drip free at rest either so don't necessarily count on this. Again this is all dependent on the condition of your shaft, the installation of the packing and break in/adjustment that you do.Many boat yard monkeys honestly DON'T have a clue so you should not blindly trust them & it's why I DIY 95% of my projects. Here in Maine we actually have schools such as the Landing School http://www.landingschool.org/ which actually turn out qualified boat yard employees but in most areas of the country it's "learn as you go" and barely a high school education.....

 

[Maine Sail]

Fred at yard...

Fred at yard needs to give better advice!!Quote:"In gear, should be no more than 1-3 drops per minute preferably noneOptimum is no drips in gear “1-3 is an old wives tale,” says Fred at Yard"ALL traditional packing SHOULD drip some when running including Gore GFO which is the best of the best. Sometimes GFO can be made to be drip free but it's rare and is a delicate balance of heat vs. drips vs. dry. Perhaps Fred at the yard like to sell new prop shafts? The real test is HEAT there should be NO MORE than a 30 degree differential between the ocean water temp and the temperature of the stuffing box when running. Obviously the closest temp differential, like 10 degrees, with satisfactory drips/minute will last the longest and do the least amount of shaft damage. This temp differential usually winds up being a few drops to as may as 20 drops per minute depending on the condition of your shaft. Not ALL stuffing boxes will be drip free at rest either so don't necessarily count on this. Again this is all dependent on the condition of your shaft, the installation of the packing and break in/adjustment that you do.Many boat yard monkeys honestly DON'T have a clue so you should not blindly trust them & it's why I DIY 95% of my projects. Here in Maine we actually have schools such as the Landing School http://www.landingschool.org/ which actually turn out qualified boat yard employees but in most areas of the country it's "learn as you go" and barely a high school education.....

 

[Bill O'D]

About Fred...

Fred has since retired, but he was the lead mechanic after serving 30 years in the Army as a helicopter maintenance man, including at least one tour in Vietnam. His no-leak advice has held up well for ten years.

 

[Bill O'D]

About Fred...

Fred has since retired, but he was the lead mechanic after serving 30 years in the Army as a helicopter maintenance man, including at least one tour in Vietnam. His no-leak advice has held up well for ten years.

 

[Maine Sail]

No leak when spinning?

If it's no leak when spinning, for ten years, you've been very, very lucky and are by NO means the in the norm... If you wre using Gore GFO I would not find it all that surprising but with teflon or regular flax it is out of the ordinary.. If it's no leak at rest that's fairly common depending on shaft condition but still not 100%.

 

[Maine Sail]

No leak when spinning?

If it's no leak when spinning, for ten years, you've been very, very lucky and are by NO means the in the norm... If you wre using Gore GFO I would not find it all that surprising but with teflon or regular flax it is out of the ordinary.. If it's no leak at rest that's fairly common depending on shaft condition but still not 100%.