Replacing Mixing Elbow

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Alan

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Jun 2, 2004
4,174
Hunter 35.5 LI, NY
Salty, the studs would only work if you have enough clearance behind the elbow assembly to back it out. I don't really see the gain. When I reinstalled mine I had all four bolts in the exhaust elbow while holding it in place to start the bolts. It seems to me that the chances of dropping the nuts while trying to start them on the studs would be of greater concern and certainly more difficult.
 
Nov 22, 2008
3,562
Endeavour 32 Portland, Maine
It seems to me that the chances of dropping the nuts while trying to start them on the studs would be of greater concern and certainly more difficult.
Contemplating reinstalling mine upside down, over my head, and with one hand (the easiest way on my boat), I'm thinking the opposite. With four studs in the manifold, I can slide it on and it will hang there aligned. A strategically placed rope or shock cord will then hold it there on the studs. After I get one top nut on, half an hour to 45 minutes later, I'm home free.
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
I would suggest a little gasket adhesive to keep the gasket in place. Then it make the job a lot easier unless you have 3 hands (all yours of course).

My 2GM did not have studs in the head. Some model were built with studs and it would make the process much easier. If you have to put the bolt in the head it is very difficult to hold the assembly, position the gasket and start the first bolt.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,703
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Contemplating reinstalling mine upside down, over my head, and with one hand (the easiest way on my boat), I'm thinking the opposite. With four studs in the manifold, I can slide it on and it will hang there aligned. A strategically placed rope or shock cord will then hold it there on the studs. After I get one top nut on, half an hour to 45 minutes later, I'm home free.
One reason I much prefer studs in a situation like this is because you get two positions/chances of where it can break free. With only a bolt you have but one chance, and if it breaks......

I have often times had the nut come off on some studs and the otherd have the entire stud come out with just the nut frozen in place. I would always opt for a stud when going into a manifold or engine block for this very reason.
 

Salty

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Dec 2, 2008
144
Catalina 390 14 Perth Amboy, NJ
Main Sail, that is the reason i am thinking of replacing it with studs. It will increase the chanes of getting the nuts off and also easier to install. Just a thought
 

Ricky

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Dec 9, 2010
5
Oday 302 Nishiki, Osaka Japan
Since I'm facing over heat problem in higher rpm, guys advised me to check the water line and replace the mixiing elbow. So I inspected the parts and find out there are two kinds of elbows. One is U as now installed and another one is slightly bend elbow (New?)
Does anyone did it before? My engine is 2GM20F 1988 proping O'day 302 by KIWI 3 blade prop.
 

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Aug 16, 2009
1,000
Hunter 1986 H31 California Yacht Marina, Chula Vista, CA
I have the same engine and the mixing elbow is the one on the left. In my Hunter there is very little working room to the rear of the engine and it was far easier to remove the flange from the head with the elbow attached and separate them later. For me, it took a very large vise and gigantic pipe wrench. Some have said one can decarbonize the elbows, but everyone I spoke with said the only realistic option is renewal, which I did. Since you will have drained the anti -freeze, you might as well check the cooler by removing the end caps to make sure they are not corroded. Make sure you have all the gaskets you need beforehand.
 
Dec 10, 2003
158
Hunter 30_88-94 Edmonds, WA
I've done mine twice. First time was completely blocked and cleared 95% of carbon with a hammer and cold chisel (in a vise). 2nd time had to replace. Hardest part was getting the exhaust hose off. The bolts were no problem. Take the exhaust hose off first. Then the raw water intake hose. Then heat exchanger bolts. Only way to get the elbow off the flange is in a vice with a very large wrench, and maybe a heat gun. Watch for thread direction. When reinstalling, you can change the angle of the elbow for easier removal in the future. Have fun!
 

MitchM

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Jan 20, 2005
1,031
Nauticat 321 pilothouse 32 Erie PA
for 'on line' yanmar parts try googling niemec marine, in MA. bob is a great guy and will give you some good tech info if you want to ask him anything about your project..

torresen is in Mich and they are not allowed to sell to some locations as it's not their territory.
 
Oct 29, 2005
2,362
Hunter Marine 326 303 Singapore
Since I'm facing over heat problem in higher rpm, guys advised me to check the water line and replace the mixiing elbow. So I inspected the parts and find out there are two kinds of elbows. One is U as now installed and another one is slightly bend elbow (New?)
Does anyone did it before? My engine is 2GM20F 1988 proping O'day 302 by KIWI 3 blade prop.
Ricky, it seems like clock work that I need to change my U mixing elbow every 2 years. I had wanted to change the U to the straight SS type but realise it makes the whole assembly lower in height, hence higher risk of letting backflow into engine since my exhaust outlet is underwater.
 
May 11, 2005
3,431
Seidelman S37 Slidell, La.
Stainless

A couple weeks ago there were several elbows on ebay made out of stainless. Some guy needed a new one, and made one up, then since he had the patterns, made some more to sell. Think they were 2QM or possibly 2GM and were going for around 125. Wouldn't hurt to look.
 
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