Replacing lifelines with Dynemma line

[paul1938]

I've almost completed replacing on my Hunter 33, the old lifelines that were showing rust.
CS Johnson[the lifeline people] now have the parts needed to change out the old swag studs to a stup with a loop to splice to,which saves a lot, or you can buy new hooks and turnbuckles[why]. Practical sailor in it's current issue has a good couple pages. I went with 1/4 "[6mm] which is VAST overkill,8100' test, as the covered 316 is only about 1/2 of that. It turns out that the key part of the lifeline system are the standards, the navel acadamy in it's test wants them to BEND at about 1200 ', if they are too strong they will pull out leaving a hole in the hull. See practical sailor story.
Rather than splicing I used a product called "Splicing Nuts". The first one takes 20min. to do, then you watch their "you Tube" and you are down to less then a minute. The reason we went to 1/4 " is that my design consultant[read wife] thought it looked better. The main reason I went to the splicing nuts is it is very easy to readjust.

Time spent: outside of research was about 4 hours not counting time spent fishing out hook that went overboard.:dance:​

 

[justsomeguy]

"Time spent fishing is not subtracted from your lifespan."

 

[sailaway78]

I'm pretty well convinced

I'm pretty well convinced that time spent fishing, actually adds to your life span. I think about 10%.

 

[Lost Parent]

So you are saying you used the rope line and used the splcing nuts . Dyna flex does not mention use for life lines

 

[justsomeguy]

I'm pretty well convinced that time spent fishing, actually adds to your life span. I think about 10%.

Want to sail?

 

[capta]

paul1938
I have been considering the same change.
If you would be so kind as to be a bit more specific as to what you used w/ the Dyneema, such as Splicing Nuts and gate/end fittings I would much appreciate it.
Stuck out here in the Windward Islands, some ideas remain as dreams because of item availability.
Could you estimate the total cost of the new lifelines, please. I've priced out wire @ about $1200. I didn't think it would look very good just to tie off the ends and inconvenient to lose the gates.
Thank you.

 

[Squidd]

Maybe this...?

http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=902643&highlight=Dyneema life line

 

[Steve Dion]

$450 for all new coated wire and CS Johnson pelican hooks. Not much difference in the cost of coated or un-coated line. Probably good for the next 10-15 years.

Source: Seco South.

 

[paul1938]

paul1938
I have been considering the same change.
If you would be so kind as to be a bit more specific as to what you used w/ the Dyneema, such as Splicing Nuts and gate/end fittings I would much appreciate it.
Stuck out here in the Windward Islands, some ideas remain as dreams because of item availability.
Could you estimate the total cost of the new lifelines, please. I've priced out wire @ about $1200. I didn't think it would look very good just to tie off the ends and inconvenient to lose the gates.
Thank you.

The biggest cost was the line, @1.40 per footfor 1/4" [6mm]but that was about 30% of the coated 316. the Splicing nuts ran about $20.00per package of 4 plus shipping from San Dieago marine. You will need 16 for port,starboard lines including gates. Practical Sailor used smaller line and they used lashing instead of splicing or splicing nuts, looks cool as H--l
If I knew how to splice Dynemma I would have spliced ONE end and used the Nuts for the other just to get the fit right although the Johnson loop studs as well as the turnbuckles have adjustment s built in. One of the problems I had run into was getting the correct size studs, as well as left or right hand threading.
It seems that many of the gate hooks were made overseas, good but sometimes threaded different.
My best guess of my costs without my faulse starts for a 33 footer was about $350. you could save $100 by going to marine eyes instead of the loop studs.
Big advantage of Dynemma lines, is that it's quick and G-d forbid your standing rigging has a problem you MIGHT be able to cobble a temperary fix. Remember it's 8100 lb. test
Good luck.

 

[Anonymous 121765]

Paul,

Let us know how these hold up for you pal.

My neighbor's boat Mother Goose (a beautifully re-done Morgan OI) gave me an idea for lifeline changeouts. He replaced all lifelines with 1/4" 316 rigging wire. Which looks great and so, I did the same. The thing about lifelines is that it's usually NOT the line or fittings that break but rather the subpar/light duty made stanchions fail. Most production boats have the same types, of tubing and flimsy base plates. You would be lucky to have oversize washers for bolting below. There are some with just threaded screws into the deck coring. Real brilliance here.

Another problem I feel is that the stanchion heights have always been too short. Take a 6 foot+ guy losing his balance and trying desperately to grab the top line (for him, about knee-high length). I assure you he's going overboard. If he does manage to grab a lifeline (at about 200 lbs in weight), the affected stanchions have been known to bend, break or pull out.

To sum it up, the real problem with lifelines, is not the type, but the overall securing system. I made all stainless steel 1/4" thk. backing plates below to at least give me a fighting chance.

The reason they call them "Lifelines", is because you can LOSE your life while depending on them.

CR

 

[capta]

paul1938
Thank you very much for your detailed reply.
I have some friends on a Cherubini who have had there Dyneema lifelines for several years without any problems at all including several Atlantic crossings. They did theirs in Europe where plastic covered wire lifelines are no longer permitted, apparently. They tied theirs but I would prefer fittings and gates.
Thanks again.