Well as usual with my boat projects, one good thing leads to another.... I want to replace my lifelines. I took the port top lifeline off with no issue - easy. Then I started on the lower lifeline. Uh oh. I have three stanchions; the middle one is fine. The fore and aft ones are not. The holes that the lifelines pass through are distorted - like something has pushed up inside the hole? The lifeline is trapped; I can't work it free. Looking at it further, I wonder if I'm going to have to replace those stanchions as well. If so, can I replace just the straight vertical piece of the stanchion, or do I have to replace the bases as well? I haven't been looking yet to see how (in)accessible the underside of the bases will be. Suggestins/ideas? Photos attached. Thanks in advance.
replacing lifelines - stanchion issue
- Thread starter Sherry
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Re: replacing lifelines - stanchion issue - 1992 H30
You want to do everything you can to save those stanchions. There are no tapered stanchions for sale anywhere that we know of and to our knowledge, there is only one source. We're working with them to produce a large batch but they're not very interested in the project so it's slow going.
Someone who works with stainless can offer better advice than me, but you might carefully drill out the hole and put a ferrule inside to contain the line. That said, I wouldn't do anything until you get advice from a pro.
You want to do everything you can to save those stanchions. There are no tapered stanchions for sale anywhere that we know of and to our knowledge, there is only one source. We're working with them to produce a large batch but they're not very interested in the project so it's slow going.
Someone who works with stainless can offer better advice than me, but you might carefully drill out the hole and put a ferrule inside to contain the line. That said, I wouldn't do anything until you get advice from a pro.
I see that Garhauer has some tapered stanchions. I haven't been back to the boat to measure yet. Do you know if they would work? I assume they won't work, because I think you would know if Garhauer had some that would 
Also need to determine if I can replace just the top piece and not the base. http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=44
Also need to determine if I can replace just the top piece and not the base. http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=44
Friend of mine has a 33.5 and experienced the same issue. Believe there to be nylon grommet inside the stanchion and it may have been force upwards due to temperature changes and potential moisture inside the stanchion. Upwards pressure pinches the lifeline. We were able to eventually work them out but I recall he removed all the stanchions, took them home and may have used a dremel to bore them out to relieve the tension enough to get the lifeline thru.
Steve
Steve
If the tube and base are separate pieces on your boat, you can simply replace the tube. They are held in place with set screws. Your pictures are inconclusive as to this issue.... but a simple inspection, looking for set screws and evidence of a joint between tube and base, should allow you to determine this on your own.
Back to the boat this afternoon. I can't just replace the poles; they are welded to the base. I cannot determine how to access the bottom of the fasteners holding the base on. What happens if I unscrew these without being able to access the bottom? Thanks in advance.
Attachments
The stanchions are bolted from the under side of the toe rail. The screws are machine screws attached to an aluminum plate imbedded in the deck. You can remove the the stanchion and drill out the hole for the life line and put a plastic farrell in to protect the lifeline.
They look to be 'coated' lines, might try to cut/peel the cover off close to the stanchion and clamp on a pair of 'vice grips' and twist the cable free. It is IMPORTANT to twist the same way the cable is twisted, as this should make the cable smaller, by tightening the twist of the cable. My.02
Joe, AirborneSF and Orion - thank you all for your responses.
Orion - if I understand you correctly, there is no nut on the bottom of a bolt; these are screws instead. So I can unscrew them, detach the stanchion, do whatever I need to do, and then re-attach the stanchion - all without ever having to find access to the bottom of the screw inside the hull?
Thanks again!
Orion - if I understand you correctly, there is no nut on the bottom of a bolt; these are screws instead. So I can unscrew them, detach the stanchion, do whatever I need to do, and then re-attach the stanchion - all without ever having to find access to the bottom of the screw inside the hull?
Thanks again!
That is correct. There is a bolt that threads into the stanchion from under the toe rail. When you put it back together put a small piece of plastic (ie. a piece of milk bottle)between the toe rail and the stanchion to lessen any dissimilar metal reaction.
First thing I'd do is consult a metal fabrication shop that specializes in stainless steel. I personally wouldn't trust any piece of equipment that had been compromised in any way. A lot of these fabrication guys have brilliant ideas when it comes to restoration and repair and they're worth spending some time talking to.
As far as the under side of the bases go, you just have to get in there and look. If you're really lucky you will only have to remove a bit of carpet or wall covering to access the nuts. If you're not so lucky you will have to remove walls, cabinetry, carpet, and wall coverings to gain access, as we had to in our last project. Luckily we did too because although the fiberglass and gelcoat appeared to be in good shape on the outside, once we exposed the under side we discovered signs of stress and had the opportunity to reinforce the stantion bases with blocks of teak epoxied onto the underside of the attachment points. I've been told that I'm far too anal when it comes to things like this but I think it's always better to be safe than sorry when you rely on such equipment to avoid being hurt or killed. Good luck.
As far as the under side of the bases go, you just have to get in there and look. If you're really lucky you will only have to remove a bit of carpet or wall covering to access the nuts. If you're not so lucky you will have to remove walls, cabinetry, carpet, and wall coverings to gain access, as we had to in our last project. Luckily we did too because although the fiberglass and gelcoat appeared to be in good shape on the outside, once we exposed the under side we discovered signs of stress and had the opportunity to reinforce the stantion bases with blocks of teak epoxied onto the underside of the attachment points. I've been told that I'm far too anal when it comes to things like this but I think it's always better to be safe than sorry when you rely on such equipment to avoid being hurt or killed. Good luck.
I could possibly do that, but I'm concerned about a couple of points. First, what will I put back in place that will be a good/clean support for new lifelines? Second, do I have a structural issue with them the way they are?
I learned from Hunter (thank you Phil!!!) how the stanchions are attached. Working on options for repairing/replacing now. Orion - your description was right on target.
Thanks all for the help! Moving in the right direction - just not sure if I should repair or replace. Not sure if we go the repair route what I will use for ferrules inside the stanchion.
Hunter tech support says:
"The tapered stanchions have to 2 (1/4-20 x 1 1/4" flat head machine bolts that are drilled and taped into a aluminum plate in the deck. There also is one 5/16 X 1 3/4" Hex Head Machine Bolt, with 5/16" flat washer and 5/16" lock washer. The 5/16 Hex Head Bolt goes through the bottom of the Hull Flange, up through the Deck Flange and Aluminum Toe-Rail and threads into the bottom of the tapered stanchion.
Also note that if a customer replaces a stanchion or the 5/16" Hex Head Bolt that they should put a little anti-seize in the base of the stanchion so there's no chance of the bolt locking up."
In other words, there should be a hex head for the bolt on the bottom side of the hull to deck joint, or possibly the toe rail.
Thanks all for the help! Moving in the right direction - just not sure if I should repair or replace. Not sure if we go the repair route what I will use for ferrules inside the stanchion.
Hunter tech support says:
"The tapered stanchions have to 2 (1/4-20 x 1 1/4" flat head machine bolts that are drilled and taped into a aluminum plate in the deck. There also is one 5/16 X 1 3/4" Hex Head Machine Bolt, with 5/16" flat washer and 5/16" lock washer. The 5/16 Hex Head Bolt goes through the bottom of the Hull Flange, up through the Deck Flange and Aluminum Toe-Rail and threads into the bottom of the tapered stanchion.
Also note that if a customer replaces a stanchion or the 5/16" Hex Head Bolt that they should put a little anti-seize in the base of the stanchion so there's no chance of the bolt locking up."
In other words, there should be a hex head for the bolt on the bottom side of the hull to deck joint, or possibly the toe rail.
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