I plan on replacing my house batteries on my Hunter Passage 42 in the spring. Any comments/advice as to type/brand? Has anyone had experience with Trojan or Rolls? Are they much more expensive? Worth it?
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Replacing Batteries
I have two deep-cycle flooded batteries aboard, both are West Marine. While quality counts for something, the biggest killer of batteries (marine or otherwise) is neglect. I had two el cheapos on my last boat. I took proper care of them and they lasted me the five years that I owned the boat and the new owner is still using them. On the other hand, I know of several people who neglected their batteries (both flooded and gel) and theirs didn't last two seasons. That tends to get expensive, especially for the gels. So in answer to your question, I would have to say that if you're like me, and change batteries every five years regardless, the less expensive will do just fine if looked after properly. Dissenting opinions welcome...fire away! Cheers, Bob
I have two deep-cycle flooded batteries aboard, both are West Marine. While quality counts for something, the biggest killer of batteries (marine or otherwise) is neglect. I had two el cheapos on my last boat. I took proper care of them and they lasted me the five years that I owned the boat and the new owner is still using them. On the other hand, I know of several people who neglected their batteries (both flooded and gel) and theirs didn't last two seasons. That tends to get expensive, especially for the gels. So in answer to your question, I would have to say that if you're like me, and change batteries every five years regardless, the less expensive will do just fine if looked after properly. Dissenting opinions welcome...fire away! Cheers, Bob
batteries
Bruce, Replaced my 2 4D house batteries with four Trojan T105's last season. Got substantailly more AH from from the T-105s (rated at 220 AH per bank). Bought the Trojans because I have a local dealer. Paid $75 each for them so don't consider them outrageously priced. As Bob says proper maintenance and charging, especially off season if your on the hard and its cold out is crucial to battery longevity. During season I perform maintenance and top off monthly and try to have them fully charged if I leave the boat for an extended period of time. Off season they get charged monthly on the boat. Bryce S/V Spellbinder
Bruce, Replaced my 2 4D house batteries with four Trojan T105's last season. Got substantailly more AH from from the T-105s (rated at 220 AH per bank). Bought the Trojans because I have a local dealer. Paid $75 each for them so don't consider them outrageously priced. As Bob says proper maintenance and charging, especially off season if your on the hard and its cold out is crucial to battery longevity. During season I perform maintenance and top off monthly and try to have them fully charged if I leave the boat for an extended period of time. Off season they get charged monthly on the boat. Bryce S/V Spellbinder
do you want flooded?
Bruce: Do you want flooded batteries? Personally I now have AGM's which replaced my W/M Gels. The gels lasted for 10 years. NO MAINTENANCE. We leave the boat plugged in year round and never but never had to even clean a battery post. We now have 1 gel for the starting battery and 3 AGM for housekeeping and refrigeration (2 for the refrig). Depending on how well these AGM's workout I will probably use 6 volts for the refrigeration next time. Personally I will never have a flooded battery aboard my boat again after using this truly maintenance free sealed technology. But there are many owners that have been with the gels and have switched back. I think that you will see AGM
Bruce: Do you want flooded batteries? Personally I now have AGM's which replaced my W/M Gels. The gels lasted for 10 years. NO MAINTENANCE. We leave the boat plugged in year round and never but never had to even clean a battery post. We now have 1 gel for the starting battery and 3 AGM for housekeeping and refrigeration (2 for the refrig). Depending on how well these AGM's workout I will probably use 6 volts for the refrigeration next time. Personally I will never have a flooded battery aboard my boat again after using this truly maintenance free sealed technology. But there are many owners that have been with the gels and have switched back. I think that you will see AGM
Steve-Don't know what I want!
Steve- I really don't know what I want. I know my boat is a power hog with 12v refer and freezer, full electronices, stereo, etc. I have a Heart inverter/charger. I want power and long life, I have room for 2 8Ds. Thanks!
Steve- I really don't know what I want. I know my boat is a power hog with 12v refer and freezer, full electronices, stereo, etc. I have a Heart inverter/charger. I want power and long life, I have room for 2 8Ds. Thanks!
Here is another idea for batteries
I agree with Bob that neglect is a big killer of any type of batteries. But the system design is also a major problem. I have a Hunter 380 and redesigned the electrical support system. First, I got rid of the 4D that came with the boat. I also got rid of the starting batteries and the battery charger. I then went to 4 golf cart batteries (wet cell) which doubled my amp hours to 440. I then put in a 20 amp Statpower battery charger. This is a top of the line battery charger that does everything including resetting the batteries every twenty one days. I also put on a smart regulator in the engine room and disabled the one on the alternator. A snubber has been added to the output of the alternator to protect it if the battery switch or circuit breaker is opened wheile the engine is running. A West Marine battery combiner has been added so the alternator can charge all batteries without having to change battery switch settings. Finally, we added a Link 20 was added to the chart table display so we could monitor the start and house batteries. I put in a deep discharge starting battery (wet cell). I've used this system for three years and am quite pleased with it. Our refrig/freezer doesn't seal well and yet we can go three plus days on the anchor and not run the engine. I did this work with a certified marine electrician. If you wish a diagram of what we did, please send me your address and I can mail a copy of the diagram we used. I have no experiences with other types of batteries, however, we sail to out of the way spots in British Columbia and I felt we could buy wet cells easier that they other types should we have to go that route. By the way, the golf cart batteries take up less space than the 4D although they are taller. Best wishes on the your battery choise.
I agree with Bob that neglect is a big killer of any type of batteries. But the system design is also a major problem. I have a Hunter 380 and redesigned the electrical support system. First, I got rid of the 4D that came with the boat. I also got rid of the starting batteries and the battery charger. I then went to 4 golf cart batteries (wet cell) which doubled my amp hours to 440. I then put in a 20 amp Statpower battery charger. This is a top of the line battery charger that does everything including resetting the batteries every twenty one days. I also put on a smart regulator in the engine room and disabled the one on the alternator. A snubber has been added to the output of the alternator to protect it if the battery switch or circuit breaker is opened wheile the engine is running. A West Marine battery combiner has been added so the alternator can charge all batteries without having to change battery switch settings. Finally, we added a Link 20 was added to the chart table display so we could monitor the start and house batteries. I put in a deep discharge starting battery (wet cell). I've used this system for three years and am quite pleased with it. Our refrig/freezer doesn't seal well and yet we can go three plus days on the anchor and not run the engine. I did this work with a certified marine electrician. If you wish a diagram of what we did, please send me your address and I can mail a copy of the diagram we used. I have no experiences with other types of batteries, however, we sail to out of the way spots in British Columbia and I felt we could buy wet cells easier that they other types should we have to go that route. By the way, the golf cart batteries take up less space than the 4D although they are taller. Best wishes on the your battery choise.
wet cell batteries
Would agree strongly with Les about being able to buy a replacement 6 Volt battery anywhere in the world. I think thats one of the best arguements for wet cells. We've been up the coast of Maine and further and would hate to try and find an AGM in some of the small ports we've been to. Bryce S/V Spellbinder
Would agree strongly with Les about being able to buy a replacement 6 Volt battery anywhere in the world. I think thats one of the best arguements for wet cells. We've been up the coast of Maine and further and would hate to try and find an AGM in some of the small ports we've been to. Bryce S/V Spellbinder
Battery Choice Concerns
Bang for the buck you can't beat the 6v golf cart. They have good longevity (number of cycles), they're cheap, have a lot of amp-hours, easy to maintain, and easier to lift in and out compared to 4D or 8D (less chance of back injury or damage to the furniture). On the other hand, if the battery box location is not suitable for ventilation, or items would be harmed by corrosive gases, is not spark-free, or your sailing needs should assume a major tilt of the boat (pitchpole, spreaders in the water, etc.), or if the location is not reasonably level, then a gel type battery would be better. We upgraded our H-35 from two group 24s to four golf carts and one start battery in 1983 and the golf carts are still going strong, holding a good voltage (as measured with a Fluke 77 - probably the best tool a boater can buy) and that was 8 years ago. We don't use the boat from end of October until sometime between May and July so this is really hard on the batteries. Ensure they're in an easy place to reach so you can check the water level and add more water when needed. In addition to the other details suggested earlier check the ampacity of the master switch to ensure it can handle the increased amperage. The Perko on our boat had to be changed out to a better Blue Sea switch. It's assumed all the cables are appropriately sized since there was a 4D to begin with, however, with the increased loads this should be checked as the OEM cables may not to be sized to allow for much growth. Reinforcing a previous reply the alternator, regulator, and monitoring equipment is vital for optimum operation and a pleasant coexistence.
Bang for the buck you can't beat the 6v golf cart. They have good longevity (number of cycles), they're cheap, have a lot of amp-hours, easy to maintain, and easier to lift in and out compared to 4D or 8D (less chance of back injury or damage to the furniture). On the other hand, if the battery box location is not suitable for ventilation, or items would be harmed by corrosive gases, is not spark-free, or your sailing needs should assume a major tilt of the boat (pitchpole, spreaders in the water, etc.), or if the location is not reasonably level, then a gel type battery would be better. We upgraded our H-35 from two group 24s to four golf carts and one start battery in 1983 and the golf carts are still going strong, holding a good voltage (as measured with a Fluke 77 - probably the best tool a boater can buy) and that was 8 years ago. We don't use the boat from end of October until sometime between May and July so this is really hard on the batteries. Ensure they're in an easy place to reach so you can check the water level and add more water when needed. In addition to the other details suggested earlier check the ampacity of the master switch to ensure it can handle the increased amperage. The Perko on our boat had to be changed out to a better Blue Sea switch. It's assumed all the cables are appropriately sized since there was a 4D to begin with, however, with the increased loads this should be checked as the OEM cables may not to be sized to allow for much growth. Reinforcing a previous reply the alternator, regulator, and monitoring equipment is vital for optimum operation and a pleasant coexistence.
P42 battery location makes maintenance ugly
So on our 42, I replaced the 8D flooded batteries first with Gel and now with AGM. The second replacement is due to a lightning strike that had my inv/chgr running wild for over a week and overcharged the Gels. Rolls thoiugh now has a flooded unit with substantially more capacity than the typical 8D and if equipped with hydrocap recombining lids should make regular maintenence much less of an issue. Still I thing AGM are the way to go. BTW,I relocated my new inv.chg into the top drawer below the bed and made space for an additional pair of 6V AGMs mounted on their side next to the start battery. That's another plus for AGM, they can be mounted in any orientation.
So on our 42, I replaced the 8D flooded batteries first with Gel and now with AGM. The second replacement is due to a lightning strike that had my inv/chgr running wild for over a week and overcharged the Gels. Rolls thoiugh now has a flooded unit with substantially more capacity than the typical 8D and if equipped with hydrocap recombining lids should make regular maintenence much less of an issue. Still I thing AGM are the way to go. BTW,I relocated my new inv.chg into the top drawer below the bed and made space for an additional pair of 6V AGMs mounted on their side next to the start battery. That's another plus for AGM, they can be mounted in any orientation.
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