Replacing holding tank hoses...?

Oct 28, 2013
129
Hunter Legend 35 Fairfield, CT
After reading a few stories on the web and forum, i think that after close to 30 years of service, the hoses from the holding tank are causing the smell in the boat. The holding tank and its hoses do not appear to be leaking anywhere, so it must be just the age of these hoses. I hate to ask the question...but how does one SAFELY replace these hoses? I have 1985 Cat 30, so there is also a pump (which was forced not to work), and no shut-off valve(s) that i can see on the tank itself, before the hoses. The tank was pumped out before the winter and partially filled with anti-freeze.. I am a bit reluctant to start disconnecting.. is there a trick to this hose replacement process? Thanks!
 
Nov 26, 2008
1,970
Endeavour 42 Cruisin
Wintertime helps...cold will supress smell.

If you wait till summer, flush out the system well with a bit of muriatic acid before attacking.

The only hose to use is trident 101. It will fend off permeating smell completely.

Have fun!
 

higgs

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Aug 24, 2005
3,708
Nassau 34 Olcott, NY
The trick is getting the old hose out with out spilling any affluent. Even if you pump the tank dry, there will be stuff left in the hose at the low points. Go to homedepot.com, then to plumbing and then to plugs. They have these plugs that have an expandable rubber gasket controlled by a wing nut. You cut your old hose at a high place, insert the plug, and start pulling out the old hose. The plug will not allow affluent to escape into your bilge.
 
Jan 1, 2006
7,509
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
That's good. Stop at Walmart or whatever and pickup a bunch of diapers. Actually useful for other spills on a boat.
If you don't get the plugs, remember that the hose has memory and when flexed during removal will spring back. Spring fling - sort of speak.
This isn't a pleasant job. You just man up and hope that you can shower before you have to get into your car. I guess bring a change of clothes and send the working outfit to the yard dumpster.
So it as soon as the hose is warm enough to bend. Don't wait for summer.
30 years is way past serviceable life.
 
Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
I have been replacing a few hoses on my system and although i am not an expert at it, i have found an easy way to manage the stiff hoses in the confined space.

others may have other ideas, but i doubt its any easier...

the muratic acid idea may not be the best, as you are going to be working in it and any accidental drips, splashes or spills, will be an acid spill... an acid spill is not a friendly spill. you can remove effluent smell with the enzyme, but acid can eat holes in fabric, rot wood, eat thru nitrile or latex gloves, and skin, and soften fingernails to the point to where you cant finish the job....
muratic acid has its uses, but im not sure this is one of them when you have to work in it.

any effluent that is lost out of the system into the boat can be washed away and pumped out later... followed by an enzyme that is left to work as it will, and then dry out or washed away later... it will kill any smell that is left behind.
dont be afraid of using a garden hose or getting water in the bilge... it will all work out and is an easy clean up AFTER the hoses are replaced.

from my experience in this cooler weather, heating the compartment where the hoses are for a couple of hours before beginning work is mandatory. this is not to keep your hands warm, but to help soften the old brittle hoses.
cut the old hoses off using a hook bill knife.... try not to cut too deep or into the fitting, and then use a screwdriver to pry the cut apart so you can remove the hose. measure and cut the new hose to the same length. after a couple of removals, you will get the feel for it...

for installing, I used a large pan of warm water that i kept heating, and used it to slightly warm the hose after I cut it to length.... let it soak for 5 minutes.

then... i used lanocoat and give the inside of the hose a very thin wipe for lubrication, and the fitting also.... as thin as possible and still feel the lubrication
when installing you must work quick as the fitting will be cooler than the softened hose and it will harden the hose quickly on contact...

when working with an elbow, install the cut lengths on the elbow first, THEN, install the long leg of hose first, then the short leg... hurry and get it all seated into place before it cools.
normally, if you try to install the short leg first, you wont have enough movement to allow the long leg to clear its fitting properly for have a good lead to slip onto it....

make sure you purchase a couple of extra feet, as you will need it... cutting a section off because it set up too quickly is normal, until you get the rhythm of how it all goes....

getting past the idea of working in the effluent and the smell is the hardest part of the job. once you get past the ick factor, and get on with the work, you will find its just another task that needs to be dealt with...
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,249
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
Just expect to be doing a little clean-up. You'll be glad when the job is done. When I pulled my hoses out, I figured I may as well replace the toilet as well. Even though it was spotless and functioning, it smelled. While it was in the boat, I couldn't discern that the toilet smelled, but when I pulled it out and it was separated from the hoses, I could tell that it smelled just as bad and couldn't be rid of the smell, so I was glad I replaced it.
 
Jan 4, 2006
7,229
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
The best tool for this job, both out with the old and in with new hose, is a 1500W hair dryer for bending the hose. Hot, soft hose makes a near impossible job almost tolerable.
 
Oct 28, 2013
129
Hunter Legend 35 Fairfield, CT
based on all of these responses, i will get all of the tubing now, ,and wait until it warms-up a bit on the east coast. we are still in the 10-20s. Even with the ceramic heater on the boat, i still cannot heat it up above 50s. Where can i buy the RIGHT enzyme? Thanks!
 
Nov 26, 2008
1,970
Endeavour 42 Cruisin
Regarding the flushing of the hoses with muriatic acid...I said to do that if it was summer. And I assumed it would be followed by a thorough fresh water flushing.

If its 20 degrees, everything should be frozen so just start cutting!

A tool I have found helpful is a turkey baster for sucking water out of low spots that wont drain. Just make sure it doesnt get used on Thanksgiving.
 

Rick

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Oct 5, 2004
1,097
Hunter 420 Passage San Diego
All good responses but one tip not brought up and is one I had to deal with. The hose had to pass through a bulkhead and passage that I had no idea if I could repeat. So I taped the old hose to the end of the new hose and used it as a messenger. Worked great.
 
Oct 9, 2008
1,742
Bristol 29.9 Dana Point
If the holding tank is emptied\flushed\emptied a few times, the only thing in the hoses will be water, if anything at all. It will stink, but it will be clear. Mostly. Might have an ammonia smell so beware.

If the tank is empty, the tank's input hose will be void.

The discharge hose may still have liquid, as the coupling is not below the tank's waterline. That's the tricky point. However, depending on the installation you may be able to dislodge the tank, and up-end it partially so as to keep the stuff in the tank. Then remove the hose.

If there is a Y-valve to direct overboard discharge, that hose may have foul water in the very lower portion, depending on if you have ever used it. Draw seawater into the head and pump it into the holding tank to flush the head lines. Then switch the Y-valve, open the thru-hull and send it overboard. You're only sending seawater. Mostly. Then close all and remove the hose. If you do this without flushing it, whatever is in there will go into your bilge and be pumped out anyway. -Or- do it on the hard, and just open the thru-hull with a bucket under it.

Copious use of old beach towels and\or other absorbent things will be of great relief. Pack them around the tank\thru hull while working.
 
Mar 26, 2011
3,693
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
I've done this several times:

1. Trident 101/102.
2. Flush a few times first.
3. Work in a logical order. Disconect the top of a hose, flush with a handy hose if need be, drain as needed. There is NO reason to splill anything.
4. Warm weather. The hose is onery on the winter and you will not fit it as well.
5. Rubber-faced gardening gloves REALLY help pul on hoses and defeat most of the yuck factor. But you shouldn't spill anything.
5. Smell? You shouldn't spill, use a good treatment (Oderlos, Camco Ultra--PS did a review of many). Use a fan if you're squeamish.
6. Really. It's only poop. Never did a diaper? Wash your hands.

And remember, you shouldn't spill anything, not if you think it through. How would you work if it was nitric acid (been there, done that).
 

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
If you really can't deal with the smell...

...I think an organic vapor mask / cartridges would do the trick.
 

AXEL

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Mar 12, 2008
359
Catalina C30 MKIII WEST ISLIP, NY
OP, is the boat out of the water? In any case if you are really that concerned why not just shove a fresh water hose in the high side and flush? I have a '77 C30 which I had to pull a 20 foot section of hose out of this past summer because it because clogged with calcium. Not really a big deal, a little funky but you have to accept it. BTY, once the hose was out I used a rubber mallet on its length and loosened up all the calcium. This hose is expensive. I was able to put the original hose back in but if I was to replace I would use solid PVC sections (Home Depot) with hose for corners. As long as you keep an eye on it the solid sections should last. Don't GLUE! Use hose and hose claps to attach sections!