I have been hunting down leaks in my '77 Oday 25, and found some were coming from the handrails. They handrails MUST be the original 1977 vintage because when I was removing them to clean them up I snapped one, and the other is about to go as well. To get to the point, I just ordered some new rails from DR Marine, and I expect them to be here by next week. What sealant is recomended for placing between the rails and the deck? Is 5200 overkill?
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101 is a better choice
FYI and good luck Weatherproof, watertight seal between mechanically fastened joints. Non-sagging, non-shrinking, remains permanently flexible. Chemically cures when exposed to moisture to form a firm rubbery seal w/resistance to weathering and saltwater. Becomes tack free immediately after striking the water. One-part Polysulfide product ideal for sealing joints between similar & dissimilar surfaces, above or below the water line & for seams where significant joint movement is expected. Seals wood, fiberglass, metal, glass & most plastics. Great as a teak deck seam sealer if a primer is used.
FYI and good luck Weatherproof, watertight seal between mechanically fastened joints. Non-sagging, non-shrinking, remains permanently flexible. Chemically cures when exposed to moisture to form a firm rubbery seal w/resistance to weathering and saltwater. Becomes tack free immediately after striking the water. One-part Polysulfide product ideal for sealing joints between similar & dissimilar surfaces, above or below the water line & for seams where significant joint movement is expected. Seals wood, fiberglass, metal, glass & most plastics. Great as a teak deck seam sealer if a primer is used.
Just ordered 101- and undrilled new rails
I just ordered the 101. I think I'll give that a try. My latest thaought about 5200 is how they came up with the name 5200... My determination is that you will get it in 5200 different places no matter what
My new rails should be coming in soon. I understand that the new rails are not predrilled, so I see a challenge ahead with trying to get this right without creating swiss cheese in the new rails. The place I ordered from told me to start with the center connection then contour the ends and drill them through. Sounds easy, but I am open to any tips and tricks to prevent myself from creating an expensive learning experience.
I just ordered the 101. I think I'll give that a try. My latest thaought about 5200 is how they came up with the name 5200... My determination is that you will get it in 5200 different places no matter what
My new rails should be coming in soon. I understand that the new rails are not predrilled, so I see a challenge ahead with trying to get this right without creating swiss cheese in the new rails. The place I ordered from told me to start with the center connection then contour the ends and drill them through. Sounds easy, but I am open to any tips and tricks to prevent myself from creating an expensive learning experience.New Handrails
I replaced the handrails on my 25' last year. I used 5200 and no leaks so far. I wish I could say the same for my portholes. Anyway, one tip about drilling the holes for the new handrails: drill the hole in the center first and then temporarily screw it to the boat. Then, with one person on the outside aligning the handrail, while another person on the inside with an awl or pen marks the hole location on the new handrail for the existing hole. Once marked, remove the handrail and drill and countersink the holes on a drill press. It worked like a charm. Once you've mounted the new handrail to the boat, leave the bungholes exposed for acouple of days to go back and tighten the screws as the handrails will have gotten used to the contour of the boat.
I replaced the handrails on my 25' last year. I used 5200 and no leaks so far. I wish I could say the same for my portholes. Anyway, one tip about drilling the holes for the new handrails: drill the hole in the center first and then temporarily screw it to the boat. Then, with one person on the outside aligning the handrail, while another person on the inside with an awl or pen marks the hole location on the new handrail for the existing hole. Once marked, remove the handrail and drill and countersink the holes on a drill press. It worked like a charm. Once you've mounted the new handrail to the boat, leave the bungholes exposed for acouple of days to go back and tighten the screws as the handrails will have gotten used to the contour of the boat.
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