I'm replacing the galvanized exhaust system on my 1983 Universal diesel 5411 installed in a Catalina 27 (1983). I've managed to remove the nuts on the exhaust flange studs as well as the stationary bar's nut, also all hoses are removed. I have not been able to remove the exhaust flange from the studs. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Les H
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L
les h
I'm replacing the galvanized exhaust system on my 1983 Universal diesel 5411 installed in a Catalina 27 (1983). I've managed to remove the nuts on the exhaust flange studs as well as the stationary bar's nut, also all hoses are removed. I have not been able to remove the exhaust flange from the studs. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Les H
J
John
exhaust flange
The exaust flange gasket has some real sticky stuff on it , not only is it tighte on the studs but the flange is grooved all the way around. On the C30xp25 the flange is threaded 11/4 where the exhaust riser comes out the rear of the moter I put a threaded pipe in the hole and wiggled wial beating the flange with a brass hammer and it poped right off.A new flange cost about 60bucks from a parts dealer I bought a spare incase I broke it. You mite try heating it with a torch then giveing it the wiggle. that was my next move. John
The exaust flange gasket has some real sticky stuff on it , not only is it tighte on the studs but the flange is grooved all the way around. On the C30xp25 the flange is threaded 11/4 where the exhaust riser comes out the rear of the moter I put a threaded pipe in the hole and wiggled wial beating the flange with a brass hammer and it poped right off.A new flange cost about 60bucks from a parts dealer I bought a spare incase I broke it. You mite try heating it with a torch then giveing it the wiggle. that was my next move. John
J
John
exhaust flange
The exaust flange gasket has some real sticky stuff on it , not only is it tighte on the studs but the flange is grooved all the way around. On the C30xp25 the flange is threaded 11/4 where the exhaust riser comes out the rear of the moter I put a threaded pipe in the hole and wiggled wial beating the flange with a brass hammer and it poped right off.A new flange cost about 60bucks from a parts dealer I bought a spare incase I broke it. You mite try heating it with a torch then giveing it the wiggle. that was my next move. John
The exaust flange gasket has some real sticky stuff on it , not only is it tighte on the studs but the flange is grooved all the way around. On the C30xp25 the flange is threaded 11/4 where the exhaust riser comes out the rear of the moter I put a threaded pipe in the hole and wiggled wial beating the flange with a brass hammer and it poped right off.A new flange cost about 60bucks from a parts dealer I bought a spare incase I broke it. You mite try heating it with a torch then giveing it the wiggle. that was my next move. John
Don't Use Galvanized Pipe
You mentioned galvanized pipe in your posting. The original is black iron pipe, not galvanized. Do not use galvanized pipe in replacing it. My understanding is that the zinc (or whatever) will leach out ove time and weaken the pipe.
You mentioned galvanized pipe in your posting. The original is black iron pipe, not galvanized. Do not use galvanized pipe in replacing it. My understanding is that the zinc (or whatever) will leach out ove time and weaken the pipe.
Don't Use Galvanized Pipe
You mentioned galvanized pipe in your posting. The original is black iron pipe, not galvanized. Do not use galvanized pipe in replacing it. My understanding is that the zinc (or whatever) will leach out ove time and weaken the pipe.
You mentioned galvanized pipe in your posting. The original is black iron pipe, not galvanized. Do not use galvanized pipe in replacing it. My understanding is that the zinc (or whatever) will leach out ove time and weaken the pipe.
J
Jack Swords
Just did mine
Just replaced my riser as it was clogged at the sea water injection site. The one removed had been there for 14 years and was galvanized pipe. All were in good shape except the last section, but spent $15 to replace all the pipe. Used galvanized pipe (as I removed), so will post in the future if there are any problems. I considered brass pipe, but was told that in sea water it will "dezincify" and weaken, so stuck to that which lasted 14 years. Hope it and I last that long in the future. The flange was fastened with stainless bolts and came out of the warm engine easily. The gasket was cemented in with what appeared to be a red silicone material and came right off too. All sections of the pipes were screwed together and welded. I am told that heating and contraction can cause the pipes to unscrew. They are at the welders now for the same treatment. Pipes were well wrapped with insulating material and wrapped with stainless wire. Looks like the boatyard (or whoever) did it right. Cost down here for pipe and welding will be under $25. My labor is free (and it was an easy job, once I figured out the problem...I started with the impeller, then the thermostat, the hoses, etc. I expected the riser to be an awful job, it wasn't)
Just replaced my riser as it was clogged at the sea water injection site. The one removed had been there for 14 years and was galvanized pipe. All were in good shape except the last section, but spent $15 to replace all the pipe. Used galvanized pipe (as I removed), so will post in the future if there are any problems. I considered brass pipe, but was told that in sea water it will "dezincify" and weaken, so stuck to that which lasted 14 years. Hope it and I last that long in the future. The flange was fastened with stainless bolts and came out of the warm engine easily. The gasket was cemented in with what appeared to be a red silicone material and came right off too. All sections of the pipes were screwed together and welded. I am told that heating and contraction can cause the pipes to unscrew. They are at the welders now for the same treatment. Pipes were well wrapped with insulating material and wrapped with stainless wire. Looks like the boatyard (or whoever) did it right. Cost down here for pipe and welding will be under $25. My labor is free (and it was an easy job, once I figured out the problem...I started with the impeller, then the thermostat, the hoses, etc. I expected the riser to be an awful job, it wasn't)
J
Jack Swords
Just did mine
Just replaced my riser as it was clogged at the sea water injection site. The one removed had been there for 14 years and was galvanized pipe. All were in good shape except the last section, but spent $15 to replace all the pipe. Used galvanized pipe (as I removed), so will post in the future if there are any problems. I considered brass pipe, but was told that in sea water it will "dezincify" and weaken, so stuck to that which lasted 14 years. Hope it and I last that long in the future. The flange was fastened with stainless bolts and came out of the warm engine easily. The gasket was cemented in with what appeared to be a red silicone material and came right off too. All sections of the pipes were screwed together and welded. I am told that heating and contraction can cause the pipes to unscrew. They are at the welders now for the same treatment. Pipes were well wrapped with insulating material and wrapped with stainless wire. Looks like the boatyard (or whoever) did it right. Cost down here for pipe and welding will be under $25. My labor is free (and it was an easy job, once I figured out the problem...I started with the impeller, then the thermostat, the hoses, etc. I expected the riser to be an awful job, it wasn't)
Just replaced my riser as it was clogged at the sea water injection site. The one removed had been there for 14 years and was galvanized pipe. All were in good shape except the last section, but spent $15 to replace all the pipe. Used galvanized pipe (as I removed), so will post in the future if there are any problems. I considered brass pipe, but was told that in sea water it will "dezincify" and weaken, so stuck to that which lasted 14 years. Hope it and I last that long in the future. The flange was fastened with stainless bolts and came out of the warm engine easily. The gasket was cemented in with what appeared to be a red silicone material and came right off too. All sections of the pipes were screwed together and welded. I am told that heating and contraction can cause the pipes to unscrew. They are at the welders now for the same treatment. Pipes were well wrapped with insulating material and wrapped with stainless wire. Looks like the boatyard (or whoever) did it right. Cost down here for pipe and welding will be under $25. My labor is free (and it was an easy job, once I figured out the problem...I started with the impeller, then the thermostat, the hoses, etc. I expected the riser to be an awful job, it wasn't)
L
les h
Thanks guys
Thanks guys. As usual I got great suggestions on a great forum format. Good sailing all.
Thanks guys. As usual I got great suggestions on a great forum format. Good sailing all.
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