Replacing engine compartment heat/noise insulation
- Thread starter IH82BL8
- Start date
I bought some stuff from West Marine that is made for that express purpose. It's a little pricey, but it has an adhesive back that you just peel and stick very easy to use. The old stuff had deteriorated so badly that it just turned to powder when you touched it. I used a shop vac to suck it off the walls. It made it a lot easier. Here is the finished product.
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This site has good stuff too. All of it is expensive, but worth the re-do.
http://shop.hunterowners.com/search.php?kw=sound+insulation
The difference on replacement is not night/day, but noticeably less noise.
http://shop.hunterowners.com/search.php?kw=sound+insulation
The difference on replacement is not night/day, but noticeably less noise.
On a previous boat where the insulation was falling apart I just removed it all, cleaned the area and never replaced it. Never noticed any heat radiation and the increase in noise was not bothersome. It did keep the engine from ingesting them fiberglass strands.
I used the 1" material from West Marine. It has an intermediate layer of PVC between an absorption layer of foam and an isolation layer. A bit pricy, but way better than the old stuff, which was disintegrating from age.
Had the engine out for other reasons, so access was easy. Used Goo-Off to remove the old adhesive, then acetone to remove the oiliness of the Goo-Off. Used scraps of cardboard to make templates. The product includes mechanical fasteners for overhead installation. Stuck those on with thickened epoxy. Also used a few across the top edges of the vertical panels and on the lift out access panel in case the adhesive ever fails.
In my usual "while I'm at it" mode, I moved the primary fuel filter forward for better access and added the raw water strainer. Cut in 1" wood blocks behind the brackets are covered with mylar seam tape. In-progress and completed photos attached.
Had the engine out for other reasons, so access was easy. Used Goo-Off to remove the old adhesive, then acetone to remove the oiliness of the Goo-Off. Used scraps of cardboard to make templates. The product includes mechanical fasteners for overhead installation. Stuck those on with thickened epoxy. Also used a few across the top edges of the vertical panels and on the lift out access panel in case the adhesive ever fails.
In my usual "while I'm at it" mode, I moved the primary fuel filter forward for better access and added the raw water strainer. Cut in 1" wood blocks behind the brackets are covered with mylar seam tape. In-progress and completed photos attached.
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I started the project today by removing the old insulation. I pulled the port side off and thought it really didn't look too bad, but when I pulled the starboard side it came off in crumbs. I guess it was ruined by the heat on that side of the engine.
Anyway, I was able to keep the foil side to use as templates for the new insulation.
Is the stuff from WM rigid or flexible?
Thanks.
Anyway, I was able to keep the foil side to use as templates for the new insulation.
Is the stuff from WM rigid or flexible?
Thanks.
It's PVC vinyl; not rigid like PVC pipe. Sorry, I should have been more clear about that. It's fairly flexible, but the PVC layer does give it a little stiffness and the product is surprisingly heavy.
To wrap it around an overhead outside corner, I mitered it by cutting out the back layer of foam and a narrow strip of the PVC layer. I just butted all my inside corners together and sealed with the mylar seam tape that's included with each sheet. I put the overhead piece in first so the edges are supported by the vertical bulkhead pieces butted up to them.
Here is a better photo.
BTW, I wrapped all the bottom edges, and other exposed edges with the mylar tape before adhering the pieces in place so that there is no exposed foam to absorb water, fuel or oil spills.
To wrap it around an overhead outside corner, I mitered it by cutting out the back layer of foam and a narrow strip of the PVC layer. I just butted all my inside corners together and sealed with the mylar seam tape that's included with each sheet. I put the overhead piece in first so the edges are supported by the vertical bulkhead pieces butted up to them.
Here is a better photo.
BTW, I wrapped all the bottom edges, and other exposed edges with the mylar tape before adhering the pieces in place so that there is no exposed foam to absorb water, fuel or oil spills.
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