Replacing control cables in Edson pedestal

[ybrad]

Although the throttle and clutch cables are functional on my project, I did find some minor jacket cracking. That, and gnarley attach brackets on the engine end, are prompting a cable change.

Edson has good how-to tips on their website.
http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/PDFs/installation/EB396EngineControlInstr.PDF

Looks like the trickiest part will be undoing the cable holder bracket up in the pedestal (compass removed for access). Does anyone have any tips on this (or any other part of the process)?

The engine is currently out of the boat, so this will be my best access to the cable chase from the engine compartment (at the pedestal base) if this has any bearing on anything.

 

[Ed Schenck]

I have been down in there when routing electrical cables for my instruments. All that I recall is that it did not look that difficult. I am in there every few years to grease the chain also. I think with the binnacle off and then getting underneath the sole for that view you will find it pretty easy. Especially with the engine out you have a nice place for a big cushion to lay on. I have to work through the q-berth door and lay on top of the water heater. You do have the quarterberth opening I hope. I'll be in there today working on the stuffing box, I wore the packing pretty thin on my recent 1600 mile trip.

 

[Jim Legere]

Replacing the control cables for the transmission and the governor (throttle) is relatively straightforward and can be done from the top of the pedestal without its removal (I am assuming it is an Edson like mine...). The following is from memory: Once you remove the compass and the top part of the binnacle - 4 long bolts hold the fiberglass compass mount - you will be able to disconnect the clevis pins that attach the cables to the shift & throttle levers. Good idea to stuff a rag down the binnacle tube to catch any little pieces that might get away and fall down the tube! Then you have to remove the wheel and the wheel brake. Carefully drive out the pin that holds the sprocket on the wheel shaft, and remove the shaft. Use some string, wire, or something to hold on to the steering chain, so it doesn't drop. You may also need to slack the steering cables back at the quadrant to allow you to pull the shaft. With all this out of the way, you can undo the small crown nut that is about a foot down on the back of the pedestal. Now you can draw both control cables up (should be enough slack in the engine room) and disconnect them from the cable clamp (the thing that is held by the crown nut). Reassembly is a straight reversal of the process. Grease things up (but not the wheel brake!) while you have the chance. Don't forget to retighten the steering cables. The control cables are available at just about any marine supply - I used Teleflex 3300 series, 9 foot long for the gearshift (can't remember the throttle cable length - its 9 or 10 feet). All this sounds more difficult than it is - I think it took me little more than an hour to do. The most awkward job was slacking the steering cables. Good luck!

 

[Ed Schenck]

Thanks Jim, that's a keeper for sure. Cut and paste into one of my boat files. Just hope I don't have to use it soon. This would be great for the KnowledgeBase with a couple of pictures.

 

[RSprinkel]

changing the control cables

Thanks Jim, that's a keeper for sure. Cut and paste into one of my boat files. Just hope I don't have to use it soon. This would be great for the KnowledgeBase with a couple of pictures.

I am in the process of having to change the control cables on my 1978 Hunter 30'. The picture idea was a good thought , I might do that weather permitting. also thanks for the step by step.

Rodney Sprinkel
Baltimore, Md.