replacing cockpit floor

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Ben

Another thing, I've a problem with my cockpit floor softening up. Has anyone had this problem, and/or does anyone have recomendations for fixing it. I can inject some epoxy but if the plywood is bad this will only be a short fix. Thanks
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Any access from underside?

Ben: Is there any access from the underside so you could inspect what is going on? If not, you could remove the wheel and then cut the cockpit floor out with a RotoZip or Dremmel tool. If you cut along the edge of the non-skid it will be easy to glue back in place. Replace the bad sections and then place the cockpit sole back in place. Then you would just get some rollable/paintable gel coat and redo the sole. You will probably never be able to tell that anything had ever happened.
 
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Terry Arnold

H33 cockpit sole

The H33 has pretty darn good access to the underneath of the cockpit sole via the starboard cockpit locker and aft of the quarterberth bulkhead (just two screws) . The fiberglass of the cockpit sole is stiffened with glassed in plywood inserts. With the access just mentioned, full visual inspection is available to see what is moving and why so that you can design your remedial work.
 
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Tim Schaaf

Agree with Terry

Terry is right, the access underneath is excellent. You might only have to cut out some of the core. Actually, I have always thought the cockpit sole was one of the tougher parts of the deck. Unfortunately, Hunter didn't seal the cutouts, so a leak around the pedestal or the fuel fill was probably the culprit.
 
Jul 22, 1996
24
Hunter 356 Deale MD
More info

Ben, A similar thing happened to a 1982 33' a couple of slips down from where I keep my boat. The owner, Don Connolly, had a problem with his steering pedestal corroding around the mounting holes in the base. When he took the pedestal out he found the deck underneath to be spongy. He went the epoxy route and the deck seems to be solid now. You might contact him for further info. He is registered on the HOW owners directory. Frank
 
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Jack

Replaced Mine

Just did that this year. Leak was from the pedastal guard base which had the instrument cluster wire running thru it. If the core is wet, forget the injection routine. I removed the pedestal and then cut out the fiberglass floor, just the top layer. It is only about an 1/8 in. thick. You will see why the injection system wont't work once you see the mess the plywood leaves. It is pure mush. Then chisel out the old plywood and replace using liberal amounts of epoxy and mat. The original plywood consisted of 3in X 3in. squares laid out in alternating grain fashion. I decided that this method did not stop the osmosis of the water so I used a solid piece of marine plywood, coated with epoxy and some cloth. Place back the floor using more epoxy and weight it down. I used many many batteries. I have glassed the seam and then used body putty to fill cosmetic voids. I still need to finish the job and have tried the web site as pertains to gell coat finishing Online Fiberglass Course On Line but they have not finished their web site yet. I will probably go over the whole boat in the next couple of weeks filling in other cosmetic issues and have the whole deck repainted. Still mulling that one around. It is a job which sounds more difficult than it is. In fact taking out the steering and replacing it is probably the hardest part. I would think that taking out the steering and cutting out the floor is one weekend and replacing another. I am sure others will have other methods but the floor is very solid but a little ugly right now. Good luck.
 
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David Undewood

Hey, I have the answer .......

Just wrote a long explaination, just to have it erased because of no email address used.. bummer... ok, I just went through this whole routine... please contact me before proceeding.. I can advise you completely. Sincerely, David Underwood
 
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