My Hunter 240 has just had its 6th Birthday and I'm planning to replace the centerboard pendant as a preventative maintenance project. The nearest Hunter dealer is 3 hours away so a local boat dealer, very competent with power boats, said he will help by providing a lift, etc. But, I need your help with how to do it so that it doesn't become a really dumb idea. This is what I have so far based on searching the archives: 1. Remove the access cover at base of the compression post in the main cabin. 2. Remove the 3/4 inch bolt on the aft side of the compression post. 3. Raise the boat with a sling lift. questions - how high should the boat be raised when doing this and should the pendant on the cabin should be loose ? ? 4. Replace the pendant with a 7/16 inch low stretch (LS) line 10.5 feet in length. Fasten with a stop knot. 5. Align centerboard bracket and lower boat onto it. question - what are the gotchas with this step, particularly aligning the bracket, any suggestions or tricks of the trade that are helpful ? ? 6. Replace centerboard bracket bolt and the access cover. 7. Celebrate a job well done with a six pack, or so. OK so what have I missed so that we don't get into the six pack early.
- Status
Looks Like it to Me
Except you did not mention a big glob of silicone on the top of the bracket and then onto the bottom of the bolt head. The silicone on the bottom of the bolt head I'd do after it was almost tight while there was just enough room to squirt some in between the hull and the head. I think a while ago there was a picture posted where a guy made an alignment tool by cutting the head off of a long bolt that he put into the bracket first then removed after it was set. I did mine without it so I am not sure it is necessary.
Except you did not mention a big glob of silicone on the top of the bracket and then onto the bottom of the bolt head. The silicone on the bottom of the bolt head I'd do after it was almost tight while there was just enough room to squirt some in between the hull and the head. I think a while ago there was a picture posted where a guy made an alignment tool by cutting the head off of a long bolt that he put into the bracket first then removed after it was set. I did mine without it so I am not sure it is necessary.
centerboard pennant replacement process
Rick, Thanks for sharing your experience! It is very helpful. It may be obvious after taking the centerboard bracket off but let me ask you another question -> does the silicon on the top of the bracket and bottom of the bolt serve as an important sealant? Also, how far should the centerboard bracket be dropped down to perform this procedure - - and did you have any problem aligning it when putting it back together? Thanks again, Len
Rick, Thanks for sharing your experience! It is very helpful. It may be obvious after taking the centerboard bracket off but let me ask you another question -> does the silicon on the top of the bracket and bottom of the bolt serve as an important sealant? Also, how far should the centerboard bracket be dropped down to perform this procedure - - and did you have any problem aligning it when putting it back together? Thanks again, Len
Glob is Semi Important; It's Below the Waterline
Not always but has been the source of leaks for some. It needs to come down about 12 maybe 18 inches. I had mo trouble aligning thins back up. We did mine off the trailer using a travel lift. I removed the covers then removed the bolt. Lifted the boat and the centerboard remained on the trailer. Then just kind of the reverse process to reinstall I had a good lift operator and I guided the center board in as he lowered the boat onto the trailer, went real smooth. The pins that the centerboard and the sheave rotate on were badly corroded on mine and I replaced them so be read to do the same just in case. Duck tape held everything together while it was going back in.
Not always but has been the source of leaks for some. It needs to come down about 12 maybe 18 inches. I had mo trouble aligning thins back up. We did mine off the trailer using a travel lift. I removed the covers then removed the bolt. Lifted the boat and the centerboard remained on the trailer. Then just kind of the reverse process to reinstall I had a good lift operator and I guided the center board in as he lowered the boat onto the trailer, went real smooth. The pins that the centerboard and the sheave rotate on were badly corroded on mine and I replaced them so be read to do the same just in case. Duck tape held everything together while it was going back in.
Rick, Outstanding ! ! Your input is increasing my confidence by the minute. One final question -> Where do you get the pins that the centerboard and the sheave rotate on? I didn't see any specs in the Hunter Owner's Manual. Thanks Again, Len
Any Local Machine Shop
Would have replaced the sheave as well but it would have taken too long to get one made from Hunter and I could not find one anywhere else the machine shop could make one but they did not have the plastic stuff it is made from. Next time I do the pennant I will order one from Hunter before hand.
Would have replaced the sheave as well but it would have taken too long to get one made from Hunter and I could not find one anywhere else the machine shop could make one but they did not have the plastic stuff it is made from. Next time I do the pennant I will order one from Hunter before hand.
- Status