Just bought a Hunter 26 from its original owner. He has never changed the line which hauls the centerboard up and I am worried about it breaking and leaving me with the centerboard in the down position. I couldn't find anything in the manual about how to replace it and it does not appear that one would have access from either the inside of the boat or the outside when on a trailer. The previous owner said he thought you needed to have the boat hauled and lifted high enough to let the keel all the way down in order to access the attachment point. Does anybody know how to replace this line? I'm sure it will be a lot harder to replace and cause many problems if I wait until after it breaks.
Replacing centerboard line
- Thread starter bhhltf
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The only and safe way in my books is to have the boat lifted via travel lift.
That is generally a 1/2 line and please use yacht braid. make sure the size is that of the same diameter of the line in the boat. Recently, I replaced that line for a customer of mine whose boat I restored and it was a tad larger although it was advertised as 1/2 inch.
When you remove the line, you a tracer line so you can pull the new line thru.
You will need to remove the Center Board housing by unscrewing the bolt at the compression post base. when trying to get the housing to come out, wiggle it and it will come out. Watch how the line goes thru the block and head of the CB. With it out is a good time to check for blisters and repair them inside the centerboard housing area of the hull.
Be careful when reinstalling that the housing goes up thru the housing. Apply a tad of bearing grease on the threads and the bolt as well. When turning the bolt, do not forcably turn it as it could be misaligned; otherwise you will be buying a new CB housing.
When tight, clean the area around the bolt head and apply some 5200 around the edges.
I have reinstalled over 300 of those lines in my life time.
Crazy Dave Condon
That is generally a 1/2 line and please use yacht braid. make sure the size is that of the same diameter of the line in the boat. Recently, I replaced that line for a customer of mine whose boat I restored and it was a tad larger although it was advertised as 1/2 inch.
When you remove the line, you a tracer line so you can pull the new line thru.
You will need to remove the Center Board housing by unscrewing the bolt at the compression post base. when trying to get the housing to come out, wiggle it and it will come out. Watch how the line goes thru the block and head of the CB. With it out is a good time to check for blisters and repair them inside the centerboard housing area of the hull.
Be careful when reinstalling that the housing goes up thru the housing. Apply a tad of bearing grease on the threads and the bolt as well. When turning the bolt, do not forcably turn it as it could be misaligned; otherwise you will be buying a new CB housing.
When tight, clean the area around the bolt head and apply some 5200 around the edges.
I have reinstalled over 300 of those lines in my life time.
Crazy Dave Condon
Pat Adam posted an excellent "how to" (with photos) for centerboard line replacement. Look at the "Boat Info" tab at the top of this page, then select "Hunter 26" and "Hunter 26 Owner Modifications". While you're there, look at the similar location for Hunter 260's, 23.5's, and 240's. The link for the H-26 centerboard line replacement is below. BrianW
http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...mid=267&cat_id=15&aid=6256&page=article&mn=26
http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...mid=267&cat_id=15&aid=6256&page=article&mn=26
Your'e right, prevention is the key. We did ours when it reached 6y/o when I couldn't stand the feeling that it must surely be at the end of it's life and it was still in fine shape. Replacing it was far easier than I imagined it'd be. If there's one other thing I'd add it's not to buy anything less than the absolute highest grade low stretch line that can be had.
On the other hand if the CB line did fail it's not the end of all things either, just drop a loop of line on each side under the boat starting at the bow and pulling it aft, haul the CB up from back in the fwd cockpit area. It'd fold up out of the way and you'd easily get back on the trailer or a lift.
Congrats on your new ride. Lets get together at Cayo Costa/Boca Grande in the Spring.
Fair winds, Mike
On the other hand if the CB line did fail it's not the end of all things either, just drop a loop of line on each side under the boat starting at the bow and pulling it aft, haul the CB up from back in the fwd cockpit area. It'd fold up out of the way and you'd easily get back on the trailer or a lift.
Congrats on your new ride. Lets get together at Cayo Costa/Boca Grande in the Spring.
Fair winds, Mike
Just a word of caution:
I noted on Adams the placement of the jack stands was correct and a minimum of 6 was used with the chains in place between the jackstands. Anything less that that can and will cause damage as I have had boats to come in for repairs for lack of knowledge by other yards.
What I did was to leave the boat in the straps if replacing the centerboard line only. For any boat in the slings or straps, please make sure the straps are secured together by a line on both sides to prevent the straps or slings from slipping out.
If you are at a facility that only wants to use 4 jackstands, insist that they use 6 minimum to distribute the wieght of the boat to prevent breach of the ballast tank lid from occuring. Also, chain the stands together. Make sure the pads are on the thickest area of glass and that can be determined from hitting the hull or pinging the hull to determine the thickness.
Again, I know most of you know that but there aare some yards that are not that good and I ended up repairing the aftermath.
By the way, I use to launch large sailboats into lakes with straps with the mast up starting out with a Hunter 320 where there were no travel lifts using a crane only over the bulkhead or over a bridge. Every time I did tie the straps together. I also had a power boat standing off in the event of high wind to keep the boat for example away from the bridge should the wind kick up. I was pretty good at that.
Crazy Dave Condon
I noted on Adams the placement of the jack stands was correct and a minimum of 6 was used with the chains in place between the jackstands. Anything less that that can and will cause damage as I have had boats to come in for repairs for lack of knowledge by other yards.
What I did was to leave the boat in the straps if replacing the centerboard line only. For any boat in the slings or straps, please make sure the straps are secured together by a line on both sides to prevent the straps or slings from slipping out.
If you are at a facility that only wants to use 4 jackstands, insist that they use 6 minimum to distribute the wieght of the boat to prevent breach of the ballast tank lid from occuring. Also, chain the stands together. Make sure the pads are on the thickest area of glass and that can be determined from hitting the hull or pinging the hull to determine the thickness.
Again, I know most of you know that but there aare some yards that are not that good and I ended up repairing the aftermath.
By the way, I use to launch large sailboats into lakes with straps with the mast up starting out with a Hunter 320 where there were no travel lifts using a crane only over the bulkhead or over a bridge. Every time I did tie the straps together. I also had a power boat standing off in the event of high wind to keep the boat for example away from the bridge should the wind kick up. I was pretty good at that.
Crazy Dave Condon
Any good yacht braid will work but make sure it is true 1/2 inch/. New England ropes is one for example and make sure it is pliable, not stiff.
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