I have to replace the teak inlay in my 260 due to some battery acid damage. I already have the replacement flooring, and believe it will be fairly easy to install and caulk. What I think will be the most difficult part is removing the old 1/4 inch plywood inlay. Has anyone with a 260 or similar model with the thin teak plywood inlay had any experience in removing this floor? If yes, any tips to pass on? I believe that the original floor is glued down in the fiberglass recess with 5200 and caulked around its edge with 3M's "Kitchen & Bath" almond 100% silicone caulking. Any experience out there on removing things glued with 5200? I have heard that gluing with 5200 almost means "permanent". I would greatly appreciate any suggestions regarding removing the old plywood.
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Tim Schaaf
5200
There now exists a 5200 remover, available at West Marine, I think, but with which I have no personal experience. Otherwise, you might try sliding a piece of wire under the wood, and, holding it on either side, slide it from one end to the other, cutting the 5200 as you go. Removing the stuff is often, but not always, a bear.
There now exists a 5200 remover, available at West Marine, I think, but with which I have no personal experience. Otherwise, you might try sliding a piece of wire under the wood, and, holding it on either side, slide it from one end to the other, cutting the 5200 as you go. Removing the stuff is often, but not always, a bear.
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kevin
anti-bond 2015
Yes. there is a product available through west marine. It is called anti-bond 2015. It comes in a spray can, it sells for around 6 dollars.
Yes. there is a product available through west marine. It is called anti-bond 2015. It comes in a spray can, it sells for around 6 dollars.
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Steve
Are you sure they used 5200?
My floor came up to gain access to the tank for repairs, paid by the factory. It seemed they used a thin wide metal pry bar (wonder bar) and it came up nicely and the same sole was laid down. You cerntainly have to protect the ridge while getting a corner up etc.. Are you sure about the 5200?
My floor came up to gain access to the tank for repairs, paid by the factory. It seemed they used a thin wide metal pry bar (wonder bar) and it came up nicely and the same sole was laid down. You cerntainly have to protect the ridge while getting a corner up etc.. Are you sure about the 5200?
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Bernie
Is it glued with 5200?
Steve, I have received the teak plywood cutout, a tube of 5200, and a tube of silicone from the Hunter factory to replace the floor. In talking with the factory, they told me that they break it out in pieces in those rare cases when it has to be removed. When I asked what was used to glue it down, the service person I talked to wasn't sure. He thought it was something like "liquid nails" but told me that he would ship whatever was appropriate to use along with the replacement teak inlay. That's why I now assume it is glued down with 5200. Please doon't misunderstand my posting. Hunter has been very helpful and cooperative. They do a great job in installing the floor inlay, I just thought some of you might have found some better or more innovative ways to remove the old floor. As owners, we can usually take a lot of extra time and labor to do the very best possible job. Changing subject - I plan on coating the new floor with Sea Fin Teak Oil before installing it. I expect that will allow me to keep the floor looking as beautiful as it does when it is new. The label says that is an appropriate use for the product. Anyone have any bad experiences to share in sealing the teak inlay?
Steve, I have received the teak plywood cutout, a tube of 5200, and a tube of silicone from the Hunter factory to replace the floor. In talking with the factory, they told me that they break it out in pieces in those rare cases when it has to be removed. When I asked what was used to glue it down, the service person I talked to wasn't sure. He thought it was something like "liquid nails" but told me that he would ship whatever was appropriate to use along with the replacement teak inlay. That's why I now assume it is glued down with 5200. Please doon't misunderstand my posting. Hunter has been very helpful and cooperative. They do a great job in installing the floor inlay, I just thought some of you might have found some better or more innovative ways to remove the old floor. As owners, we can usually take a lot of extra time and labor to do the very best possible job. Changing subject - I plan on coating the new floor with Sea Fin Teak Oil before installing it. I expect that will allow me to keep the floor looking as beautiful as it does when it is new. The label says that is an appropriate use for the product. Anyone have any bad experiences to share in sealing the teak inlay?
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Crazy Dave Condon
floor
Bernie; Hunter used to use liquid nails but it is not doing the job. You have the placement floor. Did Hunter also send the caulk too for the seam around the floor? Here is how you fix that rascal. Take the floor out. Suggest usuing scraper. Make sure you do not penetrate the glass floor pan underneath. (this is not the top of the water tank as the floor pan rests on it) Remove all the old caulk. Use slow cure 5200 and spread it all over with a trowel. Put floor in. Cover floor with cloth or towels. Put heavy weights down all over. let floor set up for 4 days. Remove weights and cloth cover. Tape the edge of the floor and the other side too. Make sure tape is wide. Fill crack with silicon type caulk. Get black or almond color and you may want to ask Hunter for it. Do not use any silicon as the stuff they use is good stuff. Imeediately smooth out caulk with finger. Use denatured alcohol which will not allow the caulk to stick to your pinky. Make sure the edges of the crack is very thin or wiped clean. While the caulk is still tacky a little, remove the tape. If you get into a bind, call me. Dave Condon
Bernie; Hunter used to use liquid nails but it is not doing the job. You have the placement floor. Did Hunter also send the caulk too for the seam around the floor? Here is how you fix that rascal. Take the floor out. Suggest usuing scraper. Make sure you do not penetrate the glass floor pan underneath. (this is not the top of the water tank as the floor pan rests on it) Remove all the old caulk. Use slow cure 5200 and spread it all over with a trowel. Put floor in. Cover floor with cloth or towels. Put heavy weights down all over. let floor set up for 4 days. Remove weights and cloth cover. Tape the edge of the floor and the other side too. Make sure tape is wide. Fill crack with silicon type caulk. Get black or almond color and you may want to ask Hunter for it. Do not use any silicon as the stuff they use is good stuff. Imeediately smooth out caulk with finger. Use denatured alcohol which will not allow the caulk to stick to your pinky. Make sure the edges of the crack is very thin or wiped clean. While the caulk is still tacky a little, remove the tape. If you get into a bind, call me. Dave Condon
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Harvey Small
Mine was NOT 5200
I pulled the floor on my 26 this winter, and it was fairly easy. Just break the bead of the black stuff and work something under the floor. Mine came out in one piece and there was some type of clear silicone underneath. I'd be real wary of putting in the replacement with 5200. After all, you never know when the new floor might be so damaged that replacement is neede.
I pulled the floor on my 26 this winter, and it was fairly easy. Just break the bead of the black stuff and work something under the floor. Mine came out in one piece and there was some type of clear silicone underneath. I'd be real wary of putting in the replacement with 5200. After all, you never know when the new floor might be so damaged that replacement is neede.
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Tim Schaaf
Gym-seal (?)
There is a varnish-like product used on gym floors that resists slipping and skidding fairly well. It gives a great finish. Try a hardward supply store. If I remember correctly, it is called something like Gym-seal.
There is a varnish-like product used on gym floors that resists slipping and skidding fairly well. It gives a great finish. Try a hardward supply store. If I remember correctly, it is called something like Gym-seal.
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