Replacing backstay

[stevec22206]

A question for C27 owners with the split backstay and adjuster. I'm thinking of eliminating the adjuster and replacing the backstay on ours with a fixed split stay. We would like unobstructed access to the boarding ladder and the ability to stand/sit behind the wheel without the constant reminder that it's there. My solution, purchase new rigging and extend the split several feet higher to the triangle bracket, add turnbuckles at the chain plates and perhaps one at the end of the single stay where it terminates at the triangle. Any issues with this other than I won't be able to decrease tension on the forestay when running down wind.

Steve

 

[caguy]

I removed one of the backstays and broght it down to the center chainplate with a toggle, so it is now a single back stay. It really cleared up the back end and makes using the back ladder much easier. It also created room for the perch seats.

 

[stevec22206]

I hadn't consider the stern rail seats. That would be a trade off though and I believe the Admiral is firm on opening up the access to the ladder. We use it quite a bit during the summer when we cove out. I do like the idea of the rail seats.

Steve

 

[caguy]

It improves access to ladder. You don't have to duck under the stays. Much better for fishing too.

 

[stevec22206]

Do you still find that your head makes contact with the stay. That's my issue, I'm 6' and it's a constant battle for me, especially when the bimini is open and I want to take a look at the wind indicator up top of the mast. A possible solution for the single stay would be to relocate the center chain plate, just offset it port or starboard a bit.

Steve

 

[Lost Parent]

Did this on my 30ft and love it

 

[dj2210]

Am I understanding this right. You removed the split back stay and replaced with a full length offset to port or starboard where the original split was secured?

 

[Stu Jackson]

We had that same problem. I simply moved the connection point much, much higher. The idea of having turnbuckles at the transom is a good one, if so, you don't need the one at the split. It all depends on your geometry on your boat. Works fine for us boarding the center through the pushpit. The OEM was a real head banger. We also included an adjustable backstay, 'cuz if you have a split one, why not. Garhauer makes a nice runner and I used their vang too.

 

[stevec22206]

That is my plan, use the existing outboard chain plates, push the split stay connector up about 3 to 5' (whatever I determine it needs to be) and have the turnbuckles at the chain plates to tension the stay. I'm hoping to do this without having to drop the mast. I have access to a gin pole that can be physically climbed to allow a disconnect/reconnect of the back stay. Shouldn't be any issue with the mast being self supported while the backstay is being replaced. Probably use a halyard as a safety line to keep it in place. This is one improvement I can't wait to make.

Steve

 

[hvbaker]

Use main halyard as temp back stay bring it back to stern cleat if it is not long enough tie a length of line to it then crank it down. Go up the mast on the foresail halyard and then replace back stay.

 

[caguy]

This is the best picture of the back stay I could find. It shows how the orignal split stay was rearranged to a single stay. No additional parts or cost.

 

[jrowan]

Sure, no additional parts or costs to "modify" the split back stay. But that photo shows how that modification looks like crap, and will hurt performance & the value of the boat. The line & tackle back stay tensioner was only designed as a tensioning device. It was never designed to carry the full load of the back stay.

I also have a split back stay with the tensioner, & while it is a nuisance when seated at the helm, without the tensioner it is impossible to adjust the bask stay. The other issue is that I would not trust the 30 + year old rope line on that tensioner to carry the load of the back stay. I know that my line has been coiled on that tensioner for many years & is likely a bit dry rotted. I would at least replace the line on that tensioner as a precaution. If you are serious about modifying the back stay, I would just replace the whole stay & start from scratch. Most rigging should be replaced every decade or so for safety & reliability, not just hacked at & then hope for the best.