We just bought a 1976 Cherubini 30'. All the lines are probably original, and need to be replaced. We need to get dimensions for the halyards, and find ideas. We have read about color coding and think it is a good idea. We also heard NE Ropes is a good shop, and to use the Sta set x for halyards and sta set for sheets and out/down haul.
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I'd use Sta set for all of them.
Thomas: I would use Sta-set not Sta-setx for all of your lines. The "x" is much stiffer and not very kind on the hands. Sta-set x has less stretch but I do not think that you really care, unless you are racing. It will also save you some money too. I do not know about your model, but my friends H'30 uses 7/16" halyards. You can sometimes find these at West Marine already made up for a good price. Be sure that you splice eyes for your shackles vs. using knots. Knots weaken the lines and personally I think that they look unsightly. Shop around for you line Performance Yacht, JSI, BoatUS, West Marine, Defender all sell line. Get a package price for all the lines together, complete with splices, shackles, shipping and tax when you do your comparision. Most of them will discount the line based on the total footage that you purchase.
Thomas: I would use Sta-set not Sta-setx for all of your lines. The "x" is much stiffer and not very kind on the hands. Sta-set x has less stretch but I do not think that you really care, unless you are racing. It will also save you some money too. I do not know about your model, but my friends H'30 uses 7/16" halyards. You can sometimes find these at West Marine already made up for a good price. Be sure that you splice eyes for your shackles vs. using knots. Knots weaken the lines and personally I think that they look unsightly. Shop around for you line Performance Yacht, JSI, BoatUS, West Marine, Defender all sell line. Get a package price for all the lines together, complete with splices, shackles, shipping and tax when you do your comparision. Most of them will discount the line based on the total footage that you purchase.
Good idea
Color coding is a good idea because it adds color to the boat if done tastefully. It also makes it easier for amateurs to help out. I take clients out and while hoisting the main will ask the helmsman to "release the red line" or main sheet. If it's a banker, he'll inevitably release the blue line, which is the traveler. This requires that I respond, "Okay, now release the other red line." As for length, determine the height of the mast and go from there, adding 5 feet extra just in case. When you change out, do not use tape or duct tape. Sew fishing line in a crisscross from one bitter end to the other, to allow for easy passage over the sheeves atop the mast.
Color coding is a good idea because it adds color to the boat if done tastefully. It also makes it easier for amateurs to help out. I take clients out and while hoisting the main will ask the helmsman to "release the red line" or main sheet. If it's a banker, he'll inevitably release the blue line, which is the traveler. This requires that I respond, "Okay, now release the other red line." As for length, determine the height of the mast and go from there, adding 5 feet extra just in case. When you change out, do not use tape or duct tape. Sew fishing line in a crisscross from one bitter end to the other, to allow for easy passage over the sheeves atop the mast.
Halyards, etc.
Actually, for halyards, you take the mast height, add to it the distance to the lowest level of the sail head (different for the jib, spin and main), add the distance to wherever you want to cleat and/or winch it (like aft on the cabin top), add in a foot or so to splice an eye or tie a knot for the shackle, and THEN add at least 5 feet. Jib sheets should be 1.5 x LOA Main sheets are highly dependent on your specific mainsheet rig -- 2:1, 4:1 purchase, location of traveler, etc. Longer is better -- you can always make a rope shorter... Re: Sta-set-X -- I used that for halyards because of the lower stretch and lower diameter for the same strength as sta-set. You're generally not handling the halyards nearly as much as the sheets, so comfortable "hand" is not as big an issue. Either way is fine, though. Re: diameters -- bigger is more comfortable, but make sure it fits well through your blocks and around your winches! My boat's PO had a 9/16" mainsheet that I could barely pull through the blocks.
Actually, for halyards, you take the mast height, add to it the distance to the lowest level of the sail head (different for the jib, spin and main), add the distance to wherever you want to cleat and/or winch it (like aft on the cabin top), add in a foot or so to splice an eye or tie a knot for the shackle, and THEN add at least 5 feet. Jib sheets should be 1.5 x LOA Main sheets are highly dependent on your specific mainsheet rig -- 2:1, 4:1 purchase, location of traveler, etc. Longer is better -- you can always make a rope shorter... Re: Sta-set-X -- I used that for halyards because of the lower stretch and lower diameter for the same strength as sta-set. You're generally not handling the halyards nearly as much as the sheets, so comfortable "hand" is not as big an issue. Either way is fine, though. Re: diameters -- bigger is more comfortable, but make sure it fits well through your blocks and around your winches! My boat's PO had a 9/16" mainsheet that I could barely pull through the blocks.
Hope you enjoy your H30
I have a '77. I agree with Doug, except to say that I would buy the halyards long enough to bring into the cabin, even if you are not going to make the change now. Based on what I found through the West Marine outlet center, I got 3/8" X for the halyards ($.32), 1/2" Sta-Set for the main ($.55) and 9/16" Sta-Set for the Genoa ($.63) If you want everything complete, Call the JSI rigging shop (www.sailnet.com) and talk to Jerry Hammill or Jack Corey. They're craftsmen and sailors. Jerry & Jack made me new spreaders and standing rigging.
I have a '77. I agree with Doug, except to say that I would buy the halyards long enough to bring into the cabin, even if you are not going to make the change now. Based on what I found through the West Marine outlet center, I got 3/8" X for the halyards ($.32), 1/2" Sta-Set for the main ($.55) and 9/16" Sta-Set for the Genoa ($.63) If you want everything complete, Call the JSI rigging shop (www.sailnet.com) and talk to Jerry Hammill or Jack Corey. They're craftsmen and sailors. Jerry & Jack made me new spreaders and standing rigging.
Cheaper at Sailnet
I just priced Sta set X 3/8 at west Marine is $.99 ft. at Sailnet it is $.61 Unreal!! Also if your order is $100 or more there is free shipping.
I just priced Sta set X 3/8 at west Marine is $.99 ft. at Sailnet it is $.61 Unreal!! Also if your order is $100 or more there is free shipping.
Why ask diameters, dimensions and lengths?
With the purchase of a new cruising spinnnaker, I decided to replace the jib halyard assigned to it and wound up deciding to replace all the sheets, lines and halyards on my 78h30. Forget the math; just cut off a short length from your current halyard or line -- while leaving it in place; DO NOT remove it before you're ready to replace it -- and hop on down with that swatch to your friendly neighborhood boat supply place, hand it to them and tell them you need -- in my case -- 110' of each one of those...for halyards. They just match the size, run it through the rope-a-matic and, viola! new halyard. Take it back to your boat, securely tape the end of the new halyard to the existing one and use the existing one to "fish" the new into place -- up the mast, through the sheeve and back down to you! Simple!! Took me less than 15 minutes to get the replacements in place and about another hour to put eye-splices in braid. A note on splicing braided line; DON'T think you can learn to do this by reading the manual and paying $50 for the braided line splicing kit of fids and push rods. First, the instructions make NO sense, so find someone who knows how and get them to SHOW you how. Second, I use a stick I marked to measure the different points of entries and exits and I used a looped piece of piano wire to "fish" the various pieces -- covers and cores -- back through one another. Just a couple of quick pointers there. In deference to my learned friends, particularly Mr. Dion, hogwash on ordering the stuff from out-of-town. All the replacements on my boat cost me about $250 and that's pretty reasonable considering I bought almost 600 feet of line. I can't see where there would be appreciable savings justifying the wait for mail-order, but, then again, I guess you could have a rigging shop someplace do all the splices and stuff for you...I just happened to know how to do all that myself. And, oh, yea, I'm a big supporter of the LOCAL folks.
With the purchase of a new cruising spinnnaker, I decided to replace the jib halyard assigned to it and wound up deciding to replace all the sheets, lines and halyards on my 78h30. Forget the math; just cut off a short length from your current halyard or line -- while leaving it in place; DO NOT remove it before you're ready to replace it -- and hop on down with that swatch to your friendly neighborhood boat supply place, hand it to them and tell them you need -- in my case -- 110' of each one of those...for halyards. They just match the size, run it through the rope-a-matic and, viola! new halyard. Take it back to your boat, securely tape the end of the new halyard to the existing one and use the existing one to "fish" the new into place -- up the mast, through the sheeve and back down to you! Simple!! Took me less than 15 minutes to get the replacements in place and about another hour to put eye-splices in braid. A note on splicing braided line; DON'T think you can learn to do this by reading the manual and paying $50 for the braided line splicing kit of fids and push rods. First, the instructions make NO sense, so find someone who knows how and get them to SHOW you how. Second, I use a stick I marked to measure the different points of entries and exits and I used a looped piece of piano wire to "fish" the various pieces -- covers and cores -- back through one another. Just a couple of quick pointers there. In deference to my learned friends, particularly Mr. Dion, hogwash on ordering the stuff from out-of-town. All the replacements on my boat cost me about $250 and that's pretty reasonable considering I bought almost 600 feet of line. I can't see where there would be appreciable savings justifying the wait for mail-order, but, then again, I guess you could have a rigging shop someplace do all the splices and stuff for you...I just happened to know how to do all that myself. And, oh, yea, I'm a big supporter of the LOCAL folks.
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