Replacing a vinyl name

[Ken Cross]

Does this eliminate ghosts created by UV discoloration? Is there a recommended pad, RPM and/or cutting compound?

Have a look at our own Main Sail's post here?

Tips For A Great Buff & Wax

Buff Polish & Wax Try these products (for Gel-Coat only not intended for Awlgrip) The Cliff Note Version: Steps: #1-Clean the hull with an acid base cleaner like FSR, oxalic acid or On & Off to remove rust & tannin staining. (only if necessary) #2-Wet Sand by hand 600 (if real bad)...

forums.sailboatowners.com

Ken

 

[rgranger]

I have a bottle of cutting compound from Collinite. Not sure what the exact product number is. It is okay but not noticeably better than McGuires that you buy at Walmart. Both work just fine. Cutting compound is not the same thing as wax but more like a fine grit polish. If you gelcoat is dull you should first buff it with a cutting compound. That will remove any old oxidized gelcoat. Then wax with a wax containing UV protectors.

 

[sailnoproblem]

I used 3M gel-coat cutting compound about 8 years ago. The hull was a mess, I wet sanded the hull then used the compound and it came out great. Problem is the gel-coat is real thin now the hull is 50 years old, so I don't want to get too aggressive. That is why I'm going with the Woody Wax Compound to clean it up and then apply the 925.
My original plan was to Awl-Grip the hull but I'm from the old school of thought of once you paint it will have to be painted again. Also the cost of the job is high especially for a 50 year old boat.

 

[rgranger]

...Problem is the gel-coat is real thin now.....

Understood.

Well I don't know if the Collinite wax is better than others. My guess would be that the word "boat" on the bottle means you are paying more than you should. Collinite also markets an auto wax. My guess is that it is the exact same stuff but with slightly different coloring agents.

I have had good luck with off-the shelve auto wax products. Two seasons ago, I did an experiment on my H26 hull. I did one side with regular wax and the other with Nu Finish. The wax side looked better so I went back and waxed the Nu Finish side... and WOW! Wax over Nu Finish looked great. It is two years later and my starboard side is still better looking. My guess is the Nu Finish fills in some of the small defects and scratches in the surface and that allows the wax to really gloss up... but it is just a theory. I then went back and tried Nu Finish over the wax on my port side and there was no noticeable improvement so if you try this.... Nu Finish first then wax, not the other way around.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

@rgranger How old is your boat? Did it have any oxidation?

 

[rgranger]

I have a 1995. It was in pretty good shape when I got it. I did use McGuires polish before waxing and that did take of a "film" so I guess I had a little oxidation but all-in-all I started with a solid foundation.

I also have a nice hand-held buffer so I didn't have to work to hard.

 

[glaufman]

I use to have a really hard time washing cheese out of our pans using really hot water and soap, then I tried filling a pan with icewater. The cheese practically fell off. Comes right out of the dish brush too.

Just a thought. Go with the eraser wheel.

-Will (Dragonfly)
[/QUOTE]
I did something with ice water to get chewing gum streaks of the side of my car once...

 

[wrbeglin]

Nice responses. I think all of them will work. I couldn't say which was best, but I really like the eraser wheel suggestion. It might be interesting to try a variety for future comparison. Different materials respond differently to temperature, hard glues begin to crack when the two materials they are gluing shrink or expand at different rates with temperature change. Soft glues may get softer under heat and harden right up in the cold. These properties can be interesting to exploit.

I use to have a really hard time washing cheese out of our pans using really hot water and soap, then I tried filling a pan with icewater. The cheese practically fell off. Comes right out of the dish brush too.

Just a thought. Go with the eraser wheel.

-Will (Dragonfly)

The wheel it is!

 

[NotCook]

Heat gun on low...... start far away then slowly get closer until you see it releasing. Don't want it to be too close or hot as it could damage the gel coat. Very simple and effective.

Yup. Or hair dryer. Wouldn’t use a razor blade for risk if scratching. Heat it up and it peels right off. Just did it last year.

 

[Tom J]

3M™ Stripe Off Wheel | 3M United States

www.3m.com

This is what I just used. Very quick. I’ll never use any other technique again. Just keep the speed on the drill pretty slow. If you have someone else hold a shopvac on the vinyl as it comes off there is very little mess.