I have a 1976 Catalina 27. After hauling her for winter prep, I noticed when hand-turning the prop shaft that a squeaking, vibration-like noise comes from what I think is called the cutlass bearing (e.g., looks like a bearing in the support arm on the outside of the stern hull through which the prop shaft runs). I turned the props on several nearby boats and their respective prop shafts turn smoothly and relatively quietly. Mine turns smoothly, but it seems like the squeaking may by symptomatic of something to be taken care of. Do I need to replace the bearing in the support arm? If so, can anyone who has done it recommend the necessary steps, cautions, etc.? Paul
Replacing a noisy cutlass bearing - How do I?
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cutlass bearing
You basically have 2 options. #1 You could remove the prop and use an appropriate sized piece of metal piping over the shaft to knock the bearing out forward of the strut and cut it off. Be careful not to get overzealous since damage to the strut or mounting hardware may result. #2 Pull off prop, remove retaining bolts from your shaft, slide shaft back and remove completely. Now you have better access to push, cut, hacksaw, or other method to remove the cutlass from the strut. **Either method will require an engine re-alignment after the boat is in the water. Not having this checked to engine manaul tolerances might save you a couple hundred now, but can vibrate the engine off its mounts and then you have serious problems. I've seen the aftermath of such a situation. My Universal M-18 14hp has a .002-.004 inch acceptable range gap. That's pretty precise to take chances unless you are a mechanic. Good luck. I'm doing mine next season. In Nigel Calder's "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Handbook", it states that excess play in the cutlass should not exceed 1/16" per inch of shaft diameter. If your engine seems to vibrate excessively at low speeds, this is also a sign.
You basically have 2 options. #1 You could remove the prop and use an appropriate sized piece of metal piping over the shaft to knock the bearing out forward of the strut and cut it off. Be careful not to get overzealous since damage to the strut or mounting hardware may result. #2 Pull off prop, remove retaining bolts from your shaft, slide shaft back and remove completely. Now you have better access to push, cut, hacksaw, or other method to remove the cutlass from the strut. **Either method will require an engine re-alignment after the boat is in the water. Not having this checked to engine manaul tolerances might save you a couple hundred now, but can vibrate the engine off its mounts and then you have serious problems. I've seen the aftermath of such a situation. My Universal M-18 14hp has a .002-.004 inch acceptable range gap. That's pretty precise to take chances unless you are a mechanic. Good luck. I'm doing mine next season. In Nigel Calder's "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Handbook", it states that excess play in the cutlass should not exceed 1/16" per inch of shaft diameter. If your engine seems to vibrate excessively at low speeds, this is also a sign.
Installing the new cutlass...
Tim: Thanks for the suggestions. How is the new cutlass bearing installed with removal method #1? Paul
Tim: Thanks for the suggestions. How is the new cutlass bearing installed with removal method #1? Paul
May be OK
Paul, Was the cutlass making any noise while the boat was in the water? Did you have any excess vibrations under power? If the cutless just squeaks out of the water, it could just be dry...remember the water acts as a lubricant. Also, is there play if you try to move the shaft up and down or side to side...if no play cutless may be ok... I would think squeaking noise would indicate a tight fight and all may be ok. Jeff
Paul, Was the cutlass making any noise while the boat was in the water? Did you have any excess vibrations under power? If the cutless just squeaks out of the water, it could just be dry...remember the water acts as a lubricant. Also, is there play if you try to move the shaft up and down or side to side...if no play cutless may be ok... I would think squeaking noise would indicate a tight fight and all may be ok. Jeff
No play, just squeak
Jeff: Good questions. There is no play in the prob shaft (i.e., it does not move up or down or side-to-side) and I did not experience any excessive engine vibrations in the water. The shaft turns quite smoothly, it just squeaks. Paul
Jeff: Good questions. There is no play in the prob shaft (i.e., it does not move up or down or side-to-side) and I did not experience any excessive engine vibrations in the water. The shaft turns quite smoothly, it just squeaks. Paul
Option #1 replacement
Coat the inside of the cutlass with either a bearing grease or petroleum jelly as well as the length of the shaft up to and including the area under the strut. With a wood or rubber coated mallet, knock the cutlass a little at a time without damaging the cutlass edges until it is in place. Some struts have a retaining screw for the bearing, others don't so the tight fit is what holds the bearing in place. Other than using a small amount of water on the exterior of the bearing, I would not use any other lubricant because you don't want your cutlass to slowly work its own way out of your strut as you motor.
Coat the inside of the cutlass with either a bearing grease or petroleum jelly as well as the length of the shaft up to and including the area under the strut. With a wood or rubber coated mallet, knock the cutlass a little at a time without damaging the cutlass edges until it is in place. Some struts have a retaining screw for the bearing, others don't so the tight fit is what holds the bearing in place. Other than using a small amount of water on the exterior of the bearing, I would not use any other lubricant because you don't want your cutlass to slowly work its own way out of your strut as you motor.
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