Does anybody have a ZSpar mast that has ordered a mast foot in the past? Would you have a specific part number? I need to know specific information before approaching Rig-Rite.
Years ago when I lost my mast out off Newport RI I had Rig-Rite get me a new mast and they set it up for me at their rigging shop in Warwick RI.
I always hated that cheap cast Aluminum mast tabernacle with the Jib halyard sheave at the base, and I wanted to make a big change in it and they were willing and able to convert my mast over to accept a Dwyer stainless steel hinge plate. I also bought the utility plate with the bent tabs and holes in it for adding extra hardware like sheaves and boom vange. I bolted the utility plate under the mast hinge through the cabin top with a piece of 1" thick Teak. Last year I replaced the Teak board with 1" Trex.
The cast Aluminum mast tabernacle that came with these masts where made in France and assembled in the states. I don't even know they are still available.
Personally if I were you, I would look into converting your tabernacle over to a stainless steel hinge plate like I did. My Dwyer hinge plate 4" X 6.5". It may probably look and work out fine on your mast. I really don't know for sure.
Changing it over like I did would involve re-routing your Jib Halyard to exit out the side of the mast similar to the way the main halyard is set up and you would need an exit plate, a clam cleat, and another horn cleat.
You would need a mast plug or casting. I made mine a few months ago out of Trex and PVC trim board.
The Dwyer hinge plates put together is not as high as what you have now. Probably by 1" I think.
In order to get your stays to fit, you would need to make up about 1" on top of your cabin. Mounting your lower hinge plate to a piece of 1" Trex would give you the height needed for your stays to fit properly. The height of the hinge plate sitting on the Trex board will work toward your advantage for mast raising with a Gin Pole should you want to add a CDI Roller Furler to your boat. That 1" height would provide the needed clearance of the companionway hatch to lower you mast almost horizontal. Your mast crutch wouldn't need to be set as high. This is just something to think about down the road should you decide to keep this boat and make improvements on it.
Back in the 1990s when Rig-Rite converted my mast over, they fabricated a mast plug out of stainless steel which proved to be very detrimental to the bottom of my mast a few years ago. The two metals caused my mast to corrode at the bottom and last year I had to cut 2" off the bottom of my mast because of it.
This is why I had to make my own mast plug this year.
From what I'm told, Z-Spar is still in business over in Great Briton and they may have a place in the states. Someone in Great Briton who is on one of these forums gave me their web site a few months ago but I can't seem to find it right now. If I find it I'll send it to you.
My mast is a Z-190 and the base that fits in the mast is a ref. 1112. The sheave in that base for the Jib Halyard is a ref. 1614.
I'm not sure if your mast is the same as mine. They had a Z-190 and a Z-160.
If you need more info or help on this, just email me at
sailtrinkka1986@verizon.net This way I can send you some pics and sketches. I know for a fact that I have more info on Z-Spar in my PC if I can locate it. Rudy Nickerson of D&R Marine had given me a spec sheet on my spars just last year when I visited his store.
If worse comes to worse you could always have your mast base reconstructed and Heliark welded to work again. Either way, I'm pretty sure that I can help you on this.
Joe