Because I've seen many yards charge well in excess of $600.00 to change a cutlass, not $100.00 - $200.00. This can be done in under 30 minutes if you already had the shaft out for other work.
Replacing A Cutlass Bearing (Photo Heavy)
- Thread starter Maine Sail
- Start date
Because I've seen many yards charge well in excess of $600.00 to change a cutlass, not $100.00 - $200.00. This can be done in under 30 minutes if you already had the shaft out for other work.
Can also be done with ...
I cut 2 lengths of 3/4 copper pipe exactly the same length and then sawed them down the middle. Sanded all the edges smooth and then overlaid them over each other - when done like that they were essentially the same thickness as the cutless bearing (nitrile rubber and marine brass combined). Used two hose clams loosely around them to hold them in place. Then used two lengths of threaded rod and 2 pieces of wood with one a 1.25" hole on the back and the other with a 1" hole that I then cut in half and use some more threaded rod to hold together. Put it all together like the metal press Rich's guy had, tightened it down, smacked it with a hammer once and the bearing popped out.
Lent it to a friend with a Pearson and that one was a bear but it still work, so results can vary.
MS's method is nice if you have the shaft out, but if not this way worked well also.
I cut 2 lengths of 3/4 copper pipe exactly the same length and then sawed them down the middle. Sanded all the edges smooth and then overlaid them over each other - when done like that they were essentially the same thickness as the cutless bearing (nitrile rubber and marine brass combined). Used two hose clams loosely around them to hold them in place. Then used two lengths of threaded rod and 2 pieces of wood with one a 1.25" hole on the back and the other with a 1" hole that I then cut in half and use some more threaded rod to hold together. Put it all together like the metal press Rich's guy had, tightened it down, smacked it with a hammer once and the bearing popped out.
Lent it to a friend with a Pearson and that one was a bear but it still work, so results can vary.
MS's method is nice if you have the shaft out, but if not this way worked well also.
RP,
Zip ties work well too and allow the press to slide through them yet remain tight around the shaft. Like I've mentioned before and others have too a press may not work on all cutlass bearings. When they do work they are great but when they don't they can potentially cause damage, especially the hydraulic ones. Again my own boat yard has stopped using presses because they can damage the strut when a cutlass refuses to give or is a solid fit.
If you want to spend the time to make a press it just may work but be prepared with a back up if it does not. I have seen cutlass bearings that literally just pop out, and they scare me.
Please note the very large, thick and triplicate washers that are quite dished from the loads applied during the press fitting of this cutlass bearing.
The method show in the op will work on most all cutlass bearings not just ones in struts. A press does not work when a cutlass is in a stern log but cutting it out does. There are pros and cons to both. I always advise to replace a cutlass any time you have the prop shaft out. They are cheap insurance and take about 30 minutes to do..
Why not use a fully composite bearing and bed it on epoxy? Much easier, it also gives you an accurate check of carrier alignment as well as not needing tools to install or remove.
Removal is also easy as you just heat the carrier and the old bearing slides out.
This method has been used for over ten years on commercial vessels, just get the bearing made as a clearance fit in the carrier, with the shaft chocked you should be able to spin the bearing in the carrier on the shaft. You'd be surprised how many carriers are out of alignment.
Removal is also easy as you just heat the carrier and the old bearing slides out.
This method has been used for over ten years on commercial vessels, just get the bearing made as a clearance fit in the carrier, with the shaft chocked you should be able to spin the bearing in the carrier on the shaft. You'd be surprised how many carriers are out of alignment.
Bob,Cut back on the MB in those photos! I have a 22 inch screen and it didn't fit!
Were you on this site or on my web site? This site automatically re-sizes and I can see all the pics in this thread on the 10" net-book I am on right now.
If on my web site click on "Large" below each photo. There should not be any "Originals" left up there but occasionally I miss a few. Will check that out..
What are you an anti-moleculeite??
It may depend on what browser you're using. Some browsers will only show the images full size IIRC.
Either way I re-sized the image on my site. Of all the images in that gallery it was the only one still not reduced in size to "large" vs. "original"..
This site has an automatic re-size built in so we don't blow out the formatting perhaps it was glitchy earlier.
P.S. There are browsers other than Mozilla..??
IE who?
Suggestion
I never did my own cutlass as getting the prop off seems like the first problem, I tried a gear puller but it wouldn't budge even heating it for a long time with a torch. What is the trick the yard used since i wasn't there to see?
If you made another cut in the bearing with the saw 180 degrees from the first one wouldn't it make it easier for the bearing to fold inward to eliminate the press fit and break free of the corrosion? Instead of your bolts having to bend the brass sleeve metal it would provide a weak location for it to just fold in half. Just a brainstorm, I'm sure you would have tried it if it made sense.
I never did my own cutlass as getting the prop off seems like the first problem, I tried a gear puller but it wouldn't budge even heating it for a long time with a torch. What is the trick the yard used since i wasn't there to see?
If you made another cut in the bearing with the saw 180 degrees from the first one wouldn't it make it easier for the bearing to fold inward to eliminate the press fit and break free of the corrosion? Instead of your bolts having to bend the brass sleeve metal it would provide a weak location for it to just fold in half. Just a brainstorm, I'm sure you would have tried it if it made sense.
It was IE
It was internet explorer and this site, but it was probably a way outdated version of IE, as our IT group still believes that Battleships are way better than Aircraft Carriers (no slam intended Phil!). We are still running Windows 2000 (just upgraded two years ago) never mind XP and I am not permitted to load software or add hardware thank you very much!Either way I re-sized the image on my site. Of all the images in that gallery it was the only one still not reduced in size to "large" vs. "original"..
This site has an automatic re-size built in so we don't blow out the formatting perhaps it was glitchy earlier.
P.S. There are browsers other than Mozilla..??
Maine sail,
that was a great set of pix and you seem to be a weatlh of information. I live and sail in Saco Bay maybe we can get together for a sail some time. Ericson 29, (wet decks)
Steven685
that was a great set of pix and you seem to be a weatlh of information. I live and sail in Saco Bay maybe we can get together for a sail some time. Ericson 29, (wet decks)
Steven685
Jibes, after a couple of failed attempts to replace my cutlass bearing with the shaft in place, I decided to pull the shaft and do it the way Maine Sail shows but in order to remove the shaft, I had to pull the prop. No easy task, I couldn't get it with a heavy duty prop puller so I called in my diesel mechanic...this guy knows his stuff, he maintains all of the ferry boats in our area. He pulled out his prop puller which was a steel shaft with an impact slide that you slam to pop the prop off. It took him two hits to get mine off. After the first hit, he said "Wow, this one's on there good!"
Danny,
Ouch! Perhaps on a HUGE ferry boat transmission a slide hammer is a safe tool but I can assure you that the use of a slide hammer on a small marine gear box can have dire consequences.
Your guy may know his stuff on big ferry boats but I would keep him clear of my boat with a slide hammer from here forth. I have seen marine gear boxes blown apart from the use of a slide hammer and output shafts ruined. They are not the proper tool for the job...
Please, please, please DO NOT let anyone who "knows their stuff" near your boat if they plan on using a slide hammer. I am crossing my fingers that your gear box is okay!
Most yards around here uses the Algonac puller or custom made pullers. I have yet to see a sailboat prop that would not come off with the Algonac..
Algonac Puller
Point taken Maine! Apparently we're ok, we sailed and motored all last year after having the prop pulled.This is why these forums are good, I would have never known that this was not a good method. I'm pretty handy with many things but when it comes to engines and drive systems...I'm still learning and I call on the "experts". My hours of failed attempts at removing the prop with rented prop pullers from the big marina yards left me thinking "there must be a trick to this". Along comes my mechanic and in less than 30 seconds, he has the prop off. It made me think that that was the trick. Sorry for the misinformation...hopefully no one ruined their gearboxes overnight!!!
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Your mechanics method was not the problem, it was his prep. Disconnect the shaft coupling from the transmission and back support it first, so that when a hammer is used the transmission is not taking a blow. Mine was on pretty good and the prop shop guy loaned me his puller: looked something like this:
http://www.nettleprops.com/store/p/122-PRO-PULL-113-PROP-PULLER.aspx
which operates buy 2 threaded rods articulating 2 cast aluminum arms. Once tension is applied then a hit on the end and off it came. I had my engine out so i just backed up the transmission coupling with a board so the strut would not take the blow.
http://www.nettleprops.com/store/p/122-PRO-PULL-113-PROP-PULLER.aspx
which operates buy 2 threaded rods articulating 2 cast aluminum arms. Once tension is applied then a hit on the end and off it came. I had my engine out so i just backed up the transmission coupling with a board so the strut would not take the blow.
Here's the tool to remove and replace cutlass bearings WITHOUT removing the rudder or shaft.http://www.strutpro.com/
They have two versions, the Industrial or personal. You simply remove the propeller, use strutpro to remove old bearing , slide in new bearing and use strutpro to insert it properly and voila!
I replace my cutlass bearing by cutting the shaft, My 26 Oday 1986 was sitting in a yard on Long Island for about 10 Years everything was frozen from the coupling to the transmission to the cutlass bearing. (Engine was rebuilt and working fine Yanmar 15 Horse) Now everthing is brand new from the coupling, stuffing box, shaft and cutlass bearing. The hole job cost me about $700.00 and about 3 Days work
Great post. I have a Hunter 356 and need to replace the Cutless bearing, did you have to remove the rudder to remove the prop shaft?
No
I did not need to remove the rudder to pull the shaft on my 07 H-36
and pretty sure same thing on the 356.
But pulling the shaft is no easy job and I was doing a PSS and just pulled the shaft and I think I even had part of my Flex O fold hub on the shaft when I pulled the shaft and look at Mainsail's web page how to and the cutless bearing was easy compared to removing the shaft hub and mine was 07 but needed to add some heat to the hub before it came apart and did exactly as Mainsail
showed how to and I did use my old hub it all came apart nice but no easy,
Nick
I did not need to remove the rudder to pull the shaft on my 07 H-36
and pretty sure same thing on the 356.
But pulling the shaft is no easy job and I was doing a PSS and just pulled the shaft and I think I even had part of my Flex O fold hub on the shaft when I pulled the shaft and look at Mainsail's web page how to and the cutless bearing was easy compared to removing the shaft hub and mine was 07 but needed to add some heat to the hub before it came apart and did exactly as Mainsail
showed how to and I did use my old hub it all came apart nice but no easy,
Nick