Replacing a Broken Stanchion - H41DS

[dkinzer]

I broke off one of the stanchions on our H41DS recently and I'm looking into how to replace it.



I see that the SBO store has replacement stanchions although they are slightly larger in diameter than this 2007 has.

Replacement Stanchions

The big question is how to remove the existing base. Are there screws from the bottom or do they go in from the top? Has anyone dealt with this before?

 

[JoeWhite]

And when you remove the base, you can have it rewelded back and save money

 

[Johnb]

Agreed - I have stanchions that were re welded 20 years ago, cost less than new, fitted perfectly and show no sign of corrosion or other problems.

May be the best way to go.

 

[dkinzer]

That's a good tip. I had considered having it welded but I need to see how it looks when the base is removed. That's the key question right now.

 

[JoeWhite]

It must be removable from nuts below. Someone installed it before.

 

[dkinzer]

It must be removable from nuts below. Someone installed it before.

Quite possible. However, I've seem some stanchions that were screwed into the boat from the top. I was thinking that the base on mine might be screw-fastened from the top with a decorative cover over it. I pried on the base lightly to see if a cover would pop off but it didn't move. There is a blob of sealant (perhaps they used 5200?) sticking up slightly through the hole as you can see in the photo.

 

[JoeWhite]

I would dig up the caulking. You may find a head of a bolt or screw.

 

[jssailem]

It looks like the type of stanchion base that has a screw down base from the top.
The shiny cover is slipped down over the vertical stanchion and pressed down on the base.

Test to see if you can pop the shiny cover up off the base. There may be a set screw on the inside of the base.

 

[dkinzer]

That's what I thought, too. However, the replacement stanchion base is a solid piece of stainless with studs that go through the deck with nuts on the underside. The top part that remains visible once installed is polished while the rest of it is natural finish.

I haven't worked on this yet due to not being able to get the Bed-It tape until December. I'll need to disassemble some of the finish work in the cabin to get at the nuts - I'm pretty sure that I know what needs to be done to get access.

 

[jssailem]

Sounds good. We PacNW sailors need to support each other.

 

[senang]

The hardest job is getting access from below. Once you have that it is an easy job. I replaced a stanchion on our H38, needed to cut a piece of the plastic ceiling in the vanity to get access.

 

[dkinzer]

The hardest job is getting access from below.

That was certainly true. I had to remove the entire port handrail panel which is about 15 feet long and then pull down the headliner, which is glued to the underside of the side deck, to get access to the nuts. Some of the Philips screw heads holding the handrail panel in place showed evidence of having been removed before - one was completely stripped out and I ended up having to saw it off.

The new stanchion base is now in place with new bedding (Bed-It tape), ready to install new lifelines.

 

[TheFlagshipFesarius]

When taking the shrinkwrap off this spring I discovered one of my stanchions had a crack and needs replacing. Surveying the situation last week on my 1990 Hunter 27, looks like access to my baseplate can only be done by dismantling the port side of the cabin. Not something I was looking forward to. It appears your stanchion has two thru-hull bolts, where mine has 4 screws through the deck.

Based on the bolt pattern on this stanchion Hunter 32 Vision stanchion, I cannot determine if there is a baseplate or not. I'm tempted to see if any of the screws can be loosened, if one could be taken out I might be incline to think the baseplate (if there is one) is molded into the hull. I'm assuming mine has a baseplate underneath but I have yet to verify this until I take down the inside panel in my cabin.

I read an interesting article about replacement stanchions sold by Rig-Rite. There you find two piece (base and stanchion) to closely match a one piece. Apparently back in the day boat manufactures were paying a heavy cost to repair one piece stanchions busted in delivery. The boat had to be disassembled for every repair. Then they switched to a two piece and only had to swap out a new pole if there was damage. Looks like a two piece is in my future.