Replacement Navigation Lights

[ggooch]

I am replacing the original navigation lights on my 1982 MacGregor 25 and need a little advice. The bow light and stern light were both surface mount and for the time being I'd like to keep it this way. However, the only bi color bow lights I can find at the lower end of the price scale all require actually removing the entire light from the deck in order to change the bulb. Also, I am having trouble finding an affordable surface mount replacement for the stern light. Everything that I am finding has a lamp socket that actually sits recessed into a hole.

I have already ordered one set of lights and am sending them back. I'd really like to avoid doing this over and over again, unfortunately with the lack of detail on most of the manufacturers websites it is very hard to tell the actual configuration of the lights without touching them.

Finally, it seems that everything on the lower end of the scale is setup to just be screwed to the deck. My preference is through bolting everything. What is everyone else doing?

 

[seaStan]

I actually found a portable set that run off of d cell batteries and can be mounted anywhere. The front one has 2 lenses, one green and one red, and they unscrew to change the bulbs. It came from a small local boat dealer. The back light has a clamp to hook it on anything and uses d cells too. and came from West Marine. I like having them as spares in case something goes wrong but both could be converted to 12 volts and mounted permanently.

 

[THECUSCUS]

Got these LED's on Ebay for about $20 apiece. They are very bright and are sealed units, so worry about bulb replacement (LED life is in the thosands of hours).

 

[mikeldoy]

http://www.gandermountain.com/modpe...Classic-Bi-Color-Navigation-Light&i=81785

These nav lights are the same exact model as the ones that were previously installed on my 1984 Mac 25. Gander Mountain had the best price on the lights, and the shipping was pretty quick. I bought the bi-colored bow lights and the mast and stern light. They come with bulbs. It's a super easy light install (if you have the same set up w/ a backing plate as I do.) If you have any questions about the install feel free to ask.

 

[RussMT]

What color are those lights. They look white.

 

[THECUSCUS]

They are colored LED's, they only show their color when on.

 

[finding41]

I was looking at my nav lights the other day and thought something was wrong. Well sure thing! Someone has put the red on the starboard side and green to port! I wonder how long its been like that? It gets changed tomorrow.

 

[Sail123]

A regular light bulb is so 1950's LED is the way to go today. Much lower current use, lights never burn out, go LED.

 

[DarylA]

Im about to replace mine for LED's on a Mac26m. I was just intending to replace the bulbs and keep the existing housings. I've already done this with the cabin lights and am getting more light whilst consuming less power.

As so many domestic LED lights use transformers and run on 12v it makes the bulbs ideal to use on a 12v circuit. For my cabin lights I just cut the existing bulb off its bayonet fitting then soldered on a 2.4w LED disk. A bit of heat shrink sleeving between the bayonet fitting and the new bulb filled with epoxy then makes a nice job. So now they just plug into the existing fittings and give me more light. I shouldn't ever need to replace the bulbs but if I do I can use any bulb as I didn't change the fitting.

So next I will upgrade my nav lights to LED's. For this I'm looking at using a 12v cylindrical LED. Then a bit of ingenuity with a soldering iron!

 

[finding41]

I switched my bow light around and noticed that there was dirt on the top and bottom inside. So I guess it was put on wrong last time the bulb was changed. I am going to order LED lights to replace the bulbs only. I have to check the other bulbs and see what they are to replace yet. I have a water proof LED strip for inside the cabin. The switches just came on Mon. I plan to put everything on separate switches. The strip will go between the hull and liner in the aft sleeping area and same idea up the very front.

 

[DarylA]

Some pics of my cabin light bulb. Contrary to my above comment I didn't use heat shrink on this version.

 

[timebandit]

I had to replace the lens in mine a few years ago, it is just a small stainless fixture and the same for the rear.

If you through bolt them how will you change bulbs when you find out at nite that they are burned out?

L-E-F-T(4)=P-O-R-T(4) PORT WINE IS RED.

 

[Sumner]

...As so many domestic LED lights use transformers and run on 12v it makes the bulbs ideal to use on a 12v circuit. For my cabin lights I just cut the existing bulb off its bayonet fitting then soldered on a 2.4w LED disk. A bit of heat shrink sleeving between the bayonet fitting and the new bulb filled with epoxy then makes a nice job. ...

Do you have a source/part number for what you used? Is that epoxy in the body or silicone caulk? I know you said epoxy, but it looks like silicone....just want to make sure if I try and duplicate these.

Is there any problem if the bulbs see 13-14 volts during charging?

Thanks,

Sum

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[DarylA]

Hi Sum,

I live in England and purchased my LED's from LED Hut who are based in the channel islands. The url of the LED shown is: http://www.ledhut.co.uk/12-volt-led-bulbs/g4-led-12-volt/g4-smd-led-light.html

Re over-voltage, you may have a point as I believe that 13v is about the comfortable limit. Anything over this is likely to shorten the life of the bulb. This is something I intended to look into. I think it may easily be resolved however by incorporating a voltage regulator chip to the lighting circuit such as an MC7812CTG 12v 1A regulator. This is good for up to 1A so 5 bulbs at 2.4 watts. My Mac has 4 lighting units so this is ideal and leaves a bit of tolerance. Alternatively the regulator is so small it may be built into individual light fittings. It will require a small heat-sink but nothing that cant easily be accommodated. It also only costs £0.48

The above info is just my initial thoughts but I will look into it and come back with a proper considered response with circuit diagram if you wish.

Re epoxy/silicone. This is slightly embarrassing as I've converted a number of bulbs in this way but with slight differences. I have one on a studio audio mixing desk which I think was epoxy and I used heat shrink to bridge the gap between the LED and its bayonet cap. I posted my first post with this in mind thinking I'd done the same on the Mac. However yesterday I thought whilst on the Mac Id add some photos. On removing the bulb then found it to be different to the one I'd described. I one in the photo was made in a hurry as a test. The glue in question is hot melt glue.. not something I'd particularly recommend as the LEDs do get quite warm. So apologies for that, I was hoping no one would notice

 

[finding41]

Hi all. I have ordered 12v LED from Ebay and they came with 3 different bulb fittings. There supposed to be for interior car lights. I'll try to remember to snap a pic when I'm at the shop next.
Here is a link to almost what I have. I got another socket fitting.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-Car-Bul...pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

 

[Chris & Lenore]

The best cabin replacement I have found is a 6 watt 6 led array from led shoppe.com. Less than $10 airmailed to your door. Well made, fg board and includes 3m high heat mounting tape.

Comes with several bulb adapters to fit most situations.
They also have versions that are direct fit to Mac nav light sockets.

There is a 9 watt panel as well but the 6 watt lights our cabin up way brighter than the old filament bulbs.

Chris

 

[Chris & Lenore]

Here is the link. The 6 watt panel is only 4.99 delivered to your door. It's the top left one on the we page. These are machine made not hand soldered clusters of bulbs.

http://www.ledshoppe.com/ledcarlight.htm

 

[Sumner]

...Re over-voltage, you may have a point as I believe that 13v is about the comfortable limit. Anything over this is likely to shorten the life of the bulb. This is something I intended to look into. I think it may easily be resolved however by incorporating a voltage regulator chip to the lighting circuit such as an MC7812CTG 12v 1A regulator. ..

Thanks for the info. I have a power supply for the ships computer....

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor-navigation/Comp-ChartPlot-6.html

.... that will regulate 6 volts to 24 volts to 12 volts.....

http://www.mini-box.com/M3-ATX-DC-DC-ATX-Automotive-Computer-car-PC-Power-Supply

I've been trying to think how I could use something like that on the Endeavour. It is wired with all of the lights on the port side on one circuit and all the lights on the starboard side on a circuit. I'm thinking that one regulated supply that wold then supply those two circuits would be a good deal as then I could buy the cheaper LED's,

Sum

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[DarylA]

Just looking further a better regulator may be the

 

[DarylA]

Sorry accidentally pressed send before completing my message :O

So: A more appropriate regulator may be the : LM2940 as it can tolerate a low input voltage. Therefore your lights shouldn't go off when your supply voltage drops.

I may get one and do some tests.

I'v now replaced my Nav lights, steaming light & added a masthead anchor light. All with LED's designed to run at 10 to 30V. Im delighted with them they are a lot brighter than the original bulbs.