Replacement Main and Vang tackle

[DJM]

New to forum and happy to see all the great posts and enthusiasm in Catalina refurbishing and sailing. I bought a 1982 #11349 last week after searching for 2 years for the right one with a trailer. I was looking for replacement tackle for the stock Seaway tackle due to cracking in the plastic that runs from the edges of blocks to the rivets holding the sheaves on both my boom vang and main sheet tackle. I used the search engine in the forum but did not locate any recommendations. I did find a source for Schaefer (35-20) spec. that says for 20' LOA, 2000 LBS displacement with sail area less then 225 sq.ft. which is close to the C-22. Has anyone tried these? I have been cleaning over the past week and exploring, everything seems to be stock 1982 just trying to work out a punch list of must have replacement items and safety concerns then try to go sailing soon.

 

[Joe]

There's nothing proprietary about a boom vang. You can buy them pre made or make your own. You didn't mention what size your boat is... so I suggest you simply find a pre made system that is rated for your size boat. Every hardware manufacturer will offer a pre made vang... but essentially it's going to be a couple of "fiddle" blocks with a cleat attached to one end. Harken, Ronstan, Lewmar, Antal, Schaeffer, Garhauer, Barton and Wichard are just a few of the current companies producing sailing hardware. Here's one made by Ronstan for a boat up to 20 ft. It is sold at Defender.com but they might even sell it on this site:


This Harken vang is suitable for dinghies and small keelboats... but here the catalog gives you part numbers so you can buy the blocks from any supplier and build it yourself...

 

[catalanc]

On this subject, I have found a vang setup in the cabin of my new-to-me 22 MKII and am going to install it. Walking around the docks I see that the installation varies, some with the line extending from the top block, some extending from the bottom. Is this a matter of preference or is there a "proper" way to do this?

Also, I need to purchase some small shackles to install this thing, small enough so that they fit through the hole in the mast hound. What is the working rating required for the shackles. Found some small enough at WM that have a 800 pound breaking strength.

 

[DJM]

Thank you for the information I have been saving links in my Catalina folder when I find them. Part of the question I was asking was about working load for the main components, I guess that would also includes the condition of the boom attachments for the main sheets and vang. I have screws in some places and rivets in others on my boom. The aluminum insert for the gooseneck and tack point became loose at some point and the screws oblonged the holes in the boom, now to decide to drill to next size screw or replace with a rivet that won't back out and become loose. I have been reading that SS rivets should not be used in aluminum spars due to corrosion issues.

 

[watercolors II]

Cleating a boom vang depends on your overall setup. If you are going to cleat the line at the vang then you’ll find that it is much more convent to cleat the line above the cabin hatchway were you can reach it from the cockpit rather than going forward to reach the line at the base of the mast. A short pendant line from the boom to the vang of about 4 to 5 inches is a big help in the overall operation of a vang control line on a 22 foot boat.

If you plan on running the vang control line on top of the cabin with a cleat near the cockpit then do not get a block with a cleat!

Screw holes that are elongated, is from screws that became loose, keeping the screws tight will not do this unless the screws are so small they will pull out totally.

 

[CloudDiver]

When looking for blocks I have been a bit confused by the sizes of sheaves and working loads between manufacturers when trying to match up what sizes I need for each application. I have been shopping around as well for a boom vang, mainsheet, and adjustable back-stay blocks. What I have found is that it's easier to get the right size blocks according what size line the sheaves are designed (max) for, and the working load typically follows proportionally to the application. Most running rigging on the C-22 is 5/16" or 3/8" (someone correct me if I am wrong). If the hardware you use is designed for those line sizes the working load of the tackle should be within a good safety margin for that use. I have noticed on my own boat and many other C22s that 1/2" line is sometimes used, could also be 7/16" or some mm equivalent. I think that the choice for the larger diameter lines is for better and more comfortable grip on frequently used lines/sheets that have the bigger loads. Not that 5/16" or 3/8" wouldn't be adequate, just that the bigger size is easier on the hands. It could also be that sometimes people get a good deal on the bigger size line, have it handy because it was previously used or left over from another boat, or they just like to 'exceed the need' wherever possible for a greater safety margin. One way or another, if you use those larger size lines you end up having to get the larger series blocks that have the correct size sheaves. It will be more expensive, the tackle will be heavier, while the working loads will greatly exceed what is required.
You just have to pick and choose what is most important and how all the variables effect each other. Strength, weight, cost, ease of use on the hands, etc.

 

[DJM]

Good point on line diameter for comfort, the vang on my old Flying Scot does not seem to get used very often. I would consider a 1/4" or 5/16' set up for a new vang to save money or even use the best parts of the old tackle to make it work. I did get to sail a 1987 C-22 in Key Largo and it had stock tackle and I don't remember fooling with the vang. I do like having new blocks that run free and easy in light wind for the main sheets and was just wondering if anyone found a set up they could not live without.

 

[Joe]

If it was me for a Cat 22, I'd stick with 1/4 or 5/16 max. For one, it runs through the blocks with less friction and the hardware is much cheaper. I would not cleat the vang on either end of the tackle.. I would run the control line from the mast base to a turning block on deck then back to a cleat toward the rear of the cabin top so I could make my adjustments easily from the cockpit. You can adjust from the cockpit with a vang mounted cleat, but if it is at bottom of the vang it is sometimes difficult to snap the line in and out of the cleat.
With a top mounted cleat, you may have to reach to leeward a bit more than is comfortable for adjustments.

 

[DJM]

I have not considered the ability to vang from the cockpit, I will see if I can find some pictures of that type set up. I do like the set up Stingy sailor has for sailing one handed and I need to re-bed and tighten the mast step so this is a good time to order the mast step plate that has multiple places to mount blocks.

 

[Joe]

I have not considered the ability to vang from the cockpit, I will see if I can find some pictures of that type set up. I do like the set up Stingy sailor has for sailing one handed and I need to re-bed and tighten the mast step so this is a good time to order the mast step plate that has multiple places to mount blocks.

You don't need a block on the mast base... the vang can easily twist in the direction you want the line to go without affecting function. What you need is a cheek block, or a deck organizer, that mounts horizontal on the deck that will route the line around the hatch cover/pop top to a cleat on the cabin top near the cockpit.

The Stingy sailor site offers a few solutions with the mast step plate... but I would change a few things... First, I'd leave the boom downhaul fixed. Forget making it adjustable from the cockpit, just tie it off. Instead, rig a Cunningham.... it's a much better sail control..

The other would be to remove the cleat from the vang, flip it over and run the control line aft through an organizer. Stingy shows double organizers on each side.. but you can get 1x3 or 2x2 versions to allow more lines. If you don't have room for cleats on the cabin next to the hatch cover... mount the camcleat you took off the vang vertically on the SIDE of the cabin. Also remember that you don't have to use cam cleats... you can use the narrower clam or vee cleat... and also you don't have to mount them beside each other.. you can stagger them, or offset them, so more into the same space.

If you install organizers.. mount them on small bases to raise them 1/4 to 1/2 inch off the deck so water won't get trapped in the mechanism.

Final comment......... it's single handed... not one handed.

 

[Doug4bass]

My '90 Cat 22 had a single block at the mast base and a double (similar to the mainsheet) with cam cleat at the boom (i had reversed them). Plz check out Garhauer Marine for the hardware.....and strongly recommend at least 5/16 line for comfort. I dont think there was any 1/4" on my boat.

 

[DJM]

Thanks for the input, better to look around and think things over verses jump into something and then want to change it up later.