Hello, I have purchased a 1979, 30' Cherubini. The original boat came with a recirculating toilet. I would like to replace it. I currently have, in hand, a jabsco toilet. As there was never any through-hulls for water in-take, exit, or for a holding tank...does anyone have any ideas? Has anyone out there put in a new head? How did you do it? Could you please walk me through the steps...I am especially interested in where you put the through-hulls in this boat. Thanks! Sandy Mace
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T
TXSailor
A Lesson Learned
Sandra, I installed a new Jabsco head recently on my 27, but the original thru-hull was already there. However, I did learn (from Peggie, the Head Mistress on this site) that I needed to install a vented loop hose between the head pump inlet and the bowl to prevent a siphoning effect, allowing water to enter the boat. This loop consists of 3/4" hose installed on the pump inlet, then rises up into my hanging locker about two feet. The hose then connects to a "vented loop" rigid plastic fitting that is U-shaped with a vent on top. Another length of hose then drops back down to the head bowl inlet. This is necessary when your head is installed below the waterline. The vented loop rigid fitting costs around $30 from West Marine. I'm sure someone else can help you with the thru-hull installation - be sure to use real sea-cocks, not the crummy gate valves that Hunter put in originally. Good luck!
Sandra, I installed a new Jabsco head recently on my 27, but the original thru-hull was already there. However, I did learn (from Peggie, the Head Mistress on this site) that I needed to install a vented loop hose between the head pump inlet and the bowl to prevent a siphoning effect, allowing water to enter the boat. This loop consists of 3/4" hose installed on the pump inlet, then rises up into my hanging locker about two feet. The hose then connects to a "vented loop" rigid plastic fitting that is U-shaped with a vent on top. Another length of hose then drops back down to the head bowl inlet. This is necessary when your head is installed below the waterline. The vented loop rigid fitting costs around $30 from West Marine. I'm sure someone else can help you with the thru-hull installation - be sure to use real sea-cocks, not the crummy gate valves that Hunter put in originally. Good luck!
P
Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
Basic parameters for the system
The head flush water intake needs a 3/4" thru-hull and seacock...Ideally, it should be in a location that makes it readily accessible in the head so that it can be kept closed except when the toilet is actually in use (builders used to follow that rule, but since decor now outranks safety, they now hide seacocks under settees and other totally inaccessible locations). If you also want to be able to flush the toilet directly overboard while at sea beyond the "3 mile limit," the intake seacock should be at least 2' forward of the discharge seacock to prevent recirculating waste. The holding tank should be within 6' of the toilet. It must be vented to the outside of the boat. The line from the toilet to the tank should ideally be as straight as possible...at least no sharp bends. To walk you through every detail of a head/holding tank installation would require hours of typing...and you can find most of it if you search the archives using keywords "head" "holding tank" "Sanitation" etc. And, at the risk of appearing to try to sell you something, my book (see link below) provides detailed instructions for installing a toilet and tank. So how 'bout doing enough research to give you a "handle" on it, and then come back with specific questions. Meanwhile, I have a question: how was the recirculating system (which I'm guessing is a "Monomatic") emptied--by dumping it or pumping it out?
The head flush water intake needs a 3/4" thru-hull and seacock...Ideally, it should be in a location that makes it readily accessible in the head so that it can be kept closed except when the toilet is actually in use (builders used to follow that rule, but since decor now outranks safety, they now hide seacocks under settees and other totally inaccessible locations). If you also want to be able to flush the toilet directly overboard while at sea beyond the "3 mile limit," the intake seacock should be at least 2' forward of the discharge seacock to prevent recirculating waste. The holding tank should be within 6' of the toilet. It must be vented to the outside of the boat. The line from the toilet to the tank should ideally be as straight as possible...at least no sharp bends. To walk you through every detail of a head/holding tank installation would require hours of typing...and you can find most of it if you search the archives using keywords "head" "holding tank" "Sanitation" etc. And, at the risk of appearing to try to sell you something, my book (see link below) provides detailed instructions for installing a toilet and tank. So how 'bout doing enough research to give you a "handle" on it, and then come back with specific questions. Meanwhile, I have a question: how was the recirculating system (which I'm guessing is a "Monomatic") emptied--by dumping it or pumping it out?
R
Royce
My 76 h30
has the head intake under the port V-berth. I have a PHII head and the thru hull for the discharge (1.5") is located under the sink. I have read that some h30 owners have installed the holding tank in the V-berth. I installed a 6 gallon Todd tank under the sink. It took some modifactions, but I got it into the cabinet. I stood the tank up on end with the inlet and outlet in the up position. I had to make a dip tube for the pump out connection. I mounted the Y vale in the side of the cabinet faceing the head, with only the handle protruding. The vented loop is also under the sink. I did not have enough room to make the connections with the heavy hose I used, so I used pvc as it allowed me to make the tight 90's . I used a pvc barbed hose connector when ever I connected to ruber hose. The front of the cabinet easily comes off. I'll try and get a picture if you would like. Royce
has the head intake under the port V-berth. I have a PHII head and the thru hull for the discharge (1.5") is located under the sink. I have read that some h30 owners have installed the holding tank in the V-berth. I installed a 6 gallon Todd tank under the sink. It took some modifactions, but I got it into the cabinet. I stood the tank up on end with the inlet and outlet in the up position. I had to make a dip tube for the pump out connection. I mounted the Y vale in the side of the cabinet faceing the head, with only the handle protruding. The vented loop is also under the sink. I did not have enough room to make the connections with the heavy hose I used, so I used pvc as it allowed me to make the tight 90's . I used a pvc barbed hose connector when ever I connected to ruber hose. The front of the cabinet easily comes off. I'll try and get a picture if you would like. Royce
S
Sandra Mace
S
Sandra Mace
Re Peggy
It was pumped out as it had a valve that allowed for pump-out at the "waste" site outside of the boat.
It was pumped out as it had a valve that allowed for pump-out at the "waste" site outside of the boat.
S
Sandra Mace
Re TXSailor
Did your boat have a thru-hull for water intake? or 2 thru-hulls, one for water intake and one for waste removal?
Did your boat have a thru-hull for water intake? or 2 thru-hulls, one for water intake and one for waste removal?
J
Josh
good luck
I just recently installed an electric head and a custom-made holding tank. First of all, if you do this thing right--especially with no thruhulls--this is a huge project. So don't rush anything, and make sure you think everything through. In terms of thruhulls, most boats generally have two for the head--one to draw water to fill the bowl, and the other to dump when you're over 3 miles out. If you want to try to get away with not pulling the boat out of the water and putting these thruhulls in, I think you might be able to. When I was researching, I did hear about people using fresh water to fill the head--which actually has the bonus of smelling better and being kinder to the bowl in terms of that yellow scum. To do this, you could connect the head to the water tanks--but if you do this, think about the water pressure or a vented loop, and where your attaching to the tank or hoses, etc--there are a bunch of ways to do this wrong. On the other hand, you could look at this as a waste of fresh-water. If you don't care about that, it could save you having to put in a thruhull. Also, you could get away with having no dumping thruhull as well, if you plan to always pumpout at a dock--I would do this only if you don't plan to go offshore with the boat. The way pumpouts work is that you put a fitting on the deck, connect a hose to it that goes to the tank. This entails drilling two holes in the deck--which you are going to have to do no matter how you cut it. The first hole is what they hook their suction hose to, and the second is an air-vent, which you connect a hose to, and attach it to the tank. The air-vent keeps the tank from imploding when you're sucking. Like I said, you lose some fresh water, and dumping capabilities, but I guarantee you that you would save serious money. You could also think about a Lectra-San that Peggy could tell you about.
I just recently installed an electric head and a custom-made holding tank. First of all, if you do this thing right--especially with no thruhulls--this is a huge project. So don't rush anything, and make sure you think everything through. In terms of thruhulls, most boats generally have two for the head--one to draw water to fill the bowl, and the other to dump when you're over 3 miles out. If you want to try to get away with not pulling the boat out of the water and putting these thruhulls in, I think you might be able to. When I was researching, I did hear about people using fresh water to fill the head--which actually has the bonus of smelling better and being kinder to the bowl in terms of that yellow scum. To do this, you could connect the head to the water tanks--but if you do this, think about the water pressure or a vented loop, and where your attaching to the tank or hoses, etc--there are a bunch of ways to do this wrong. On the other hand, you could look at this as a waste of fresh-water. If you don't care about that, it could save you having to put in a thruhull. Also, you could get away with having no dumping thruhull as well, if you plan to always pumpout at a dock--I would do this only if you don't plan to go offshore with the boat. The way pumpouts work is that you put a fitting on the deck, connect a hose to it that goes to the tank. This entails drilling two holes in the deck--which you are going to have to do no matter how you cut it. The first hole is what they hook their suction hose to, and the second is an air-vent, which you connect a hose to, and attach it to the tank. The air-vent keeps the tank from imploding when you're sucking. Like I said, you lose some fresh water, and dumping capabilities, but I guarantee you that you would save serious money. You could also think about a Lectra-San that Peggy could tell you about.
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