I own a 1985 Hunter 31. The hatch (companionway) boards on my boat are very old, wooden, splintering, cracked, peeling, faded, etc. I could have repaired, refinished and/or replaced them with identical (also high maintenance) material but opted for smoked acrylic instead. I went to a local plastics fabricator (Acme Plastics located in West Paterson, NJ) and brought them my existing, original wooden hatch boards. They matched everything identically: 1/2 inch thickness, five pieces, but used smoked acrylic instead of wood. It is extremely strong, translucent, tinted (to reduce sunlight and glare) yet allows you to see in and out. I have no immediate need for privacy, but an interior velcro shade is an easy solution. The edges are polished, beveled and angled for water-tightness and handling comfort. They even drilled the holes for the lock hasp. The total cost was $196 including 6% N.J. sales tax. It took them less than a week to do. They offered to make me a one or two piece replacement unit for even less money. For me, this was a cost-effective solution to an otherwise yearly maintenance problem. I am completely satisfied.
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Lou Phillippi
Acrylic Hatch Covers
I did the same with my old Clipper 26. I would advise you to replace them with wooden ones when the boat is laid up in the winter and to have a fabric cover made for the times you are not aboard. This will slow the crazing and fogging that will take place with extended uv exposure. Mine began to craze a little, but were still good and looked pretty good after 5 years.
I did the same with my old Clipper 26. I would advise you to replace them with wooden ones when the boat is laid up in the winter and to have a fabric cover made for the times you are not aboard. This will slow the crazing and fogging that will take place with extended uv exposure. Mine began to craze a little, but were still good and looked pretty good after 5 years.
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Jim McCue
Good Idea
I had though about doing similar - but with maybe one or two replacement slats in acrylic ...but didn't know where to go to have it done. Had thought about buying a ZIP tool and after practicing abit, hope it comes out clean. I like your approach. J. McCue
I had though about doing similar - but with maybe one or two replacement slats in acrylic ...but didn't know where to go to have it done. Had thought about buying a ZIP tool and after practicing abit, hope it comes out clean. I like your approach. J. McCue
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Eric
Cutting
I have a one piece acylic hatch board and have recently cut in ventilation holes since it fit so tight. This stuff is a bear to cut. It heats up and then fuses back together. I used a blade the local plastics fabricator recommended. I wanted them to cut it but they refused for fear of cracking the plastic. I did get some cracking. I still wish they would have done the cutting. It is a very nice addition and certainly lights up the cabin, especially in the morning.
I have a one piece acylic hatch board and have recently cut in ventilation holes since it fit so tight. This stuff is a bear to cut. It heats up and then fuses back together. I used a blade the local plastics fabricator recommended. I wanted them to cut it but they refused for fear of cracking the plastic. I did get some cracking. I still wish they would have done the cutting. It is a very nice addition and certainly lights up the cabin, especially in the morning.
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Ron Dague
Eric: Cutting Acrylic
You're right, acrylic will fuse back together if you try cutting it with a jig saw. It cuts fairly easily with a band saw. Or, you can use a router.
You're right, acrylic will fuse back together if you try cutting it with a jig saw. It cuts fairly easily with a band saw. Or, you can use a router.
WARNING:
If you are cutting plastics with a saw or a router, USE SAFTEY GLASSES. This is NOT like wood. The plastic will cut smoothly but it chips. It throws chips all over the place. I cut a Nicro solar vent in my center hatch and thought I would never get done around and around several times. Every time I cut it (using jib saw), it was sealing the hole behind the cut. Finally got pissed off and beat the shit out of the piece that was being removed with a hammer. That worked, but not my recommendation. Use a hole saw if you can get ahold of one.
If you are cutting plastics with a saw or a router, USE SAFTEY GLASSES. This is NOT like wood. The plastic will cut smoothly but it chips. It throws chips all over the place. I cut a Nicro solar vent in my center hatch and thought I would never get done around and around several times. Every time I cut it (using jib saw), it was sealing the hole behind the cut. Finally got pissed off and beat the shit out of the piece that was being removed with a hammer. That worked, but not my recommendation. Use a hole saw if you can get ahold of one.
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Bryan C.
Same as Steve
I did the same thing as Steve, cutting a hole in a hatch with a jig saw for a nicro vent. If you use a slow speed with a little WD40 and take your time it doesn't fuse as much. But it was still a pain in the ass and next time I'll just buy a hole saw.
I did the same thing as Steve, cutting a hole in a hatch with a jig saw for a nicro vent. If you use a slow speed with a little WD40 and take your time it doesn't fuse as much. But it was still a pain in the ass and next time I'll just buy a hole saw.
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Michael O'Mara
ACRLYLIC
I went to one piece smoked plastic a few years ago and had a cover made for storage while underway. The only downside is that is swells slightly in the heat and I had to shave the bottom to get it to slide out easily. I had the a local plastics company do the cutting! No swearing and eye injury reported.
I went to one piece smoked plastic a few years ago and had a cover made for storage while underway. The only downside is that is swells slightly in the heat and I had to shave the bottom to get it to slide out easily. I had the a local plastics company do the cutting! No swearing and eye injury reported.
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Joan
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