Replace section of G4 anchor chain

[Captain Larry-DH]

Evans Starzinger wrote a few years back about testing rope to chain splices. If you have the time you may find this reference quite informative Rope/knot/splice load testing It’s a long thread with many pages.

 

[Captain Larry-DH]

Here’s a more specific reference of rope to chain testing by PS Rope-to-Chain Splice Test - Practical Sailor

 

[skunther]

I will wade into this snake pit with my 2 cents of opinion. I have always used ACCO brand G4 5/16" chain for 25 years. I've never had a problem and I pretty much anchor exclusively in salt water in the northeast. I have a Simpson Lawrence windlass with the correct sized gypsy for 5/16" G4 chain. In most anchoring locations I only use 120-130 feet of chain. I have a total of 175 feet and no rope rode. My experience is that the chain will last 5-7 years before the corrosion level dictates replacement. So now I have 40 feet of chain that is in good shape, and 135 feet that need replacement. I buy a half barrel of 5/16" G4 (275') and cut it in half giving me two pieces that are 135 feet each- one to use now and one to use 6 years from now. I use a Crosby G-335 connecting link to join the new 135' with the barely used 40'. The pins are peened over carefully. I believe that the size of the Crosby link is 3/8", or one size greater than the chain. The working load of this Crosby G-335 link is 2750#. The working load of ACCO 5/16" G4 is 3900#. So in using the Crosby link, I am loosing 1150# of working load. I am OK with this reduction. YMMV. But let me ask- 1- If you use a rope to chain splice, what is the working load of that splice? 2- What is the real maximum load you could expect from wind and waves on your particular boat in a storm condition? If anyone has data from a study on this I would be interested to see it. 3- At what load do cleats on your boat fail? Now I do inspect the connecting link whenever I see it. And it runs through my gypsy just fine. Lewmar just confirmed the 3/8 Crosby G335 will fit in my V2 002 windlass gypsy. Upsizing a connecting link seems a good compromise as it increases working load of the weak link.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Lewmar just confirmed the 3/8 Crosby G335 will fit in my V2 002 windlass gypsy.

Incredible stroke of luck. Better go out today and buy a lottery ticket as well.

 

[jssailem]

Win the lottery... Buy a big yacht and hire a Captain and Crew to care of the boat. All the problems are gone.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

I think what is far more interesting with the rope/chain splice is its strength after, let's say 20 passes through the gypsy when raising the anchor. That is the time when the splice sees the worst wear and tear. As previously mentioned, the rope/chain splice is definitely the most worrisome part of the anchor rode.

 

[Rich Stidger]

[QUOTE="skunther, post: 1797173, member: Upsizing a connecting link seems a good compromise as it increases working load of the weak link.
[/QUOTE]
Just like going up a size with shackle.

 

[Captain Larry-DH]

Lewmar just confirmed the 3/8 Crosby G335 will fit in my V2 002 windlass gypsy. Upsizing a connecting link seems a good compromise as it increases working load of the weak link.

You may find that you can’t fit an upsized link into the chain. The same size link is a tight fit (difficult) and I’m skeptical if an upsized link will fit without grinding off the peening pins. I suggest you get the same size as your chain link. It will just-fit without grinding and then you can peen it properly.

 

[jibes138]

If only 60 feet of 100 is corroded then the boat was likely anchored in 9 to 12 feet of water (assuming 5 to 7 to 1 scope). Why not just cut the bad section off, reattach the good section to the anchor and use the combined chain and nylon rode. 40 feet of chain to protect from chafing on the bottom and the nylon for the rest. 220 feet of rode is quite a bit and you can do a line to line splice to add more nylon line if necessary. It seems like your nylon section has probably rarely if never been used based on your description.
do you have a secondary anchor and what is that rode looking like? Can you swap the two of them?

 

[JamesG161]

My advice is simple.

Look here.
Anchor chain

Jim...

 

[skunther]

If only 60 feet of 100 is corroded then the boat was likely anchored in 9 to 12 feet of water (assuming 5 to 7 to 1 scope). Why not just cut the bad section off, reattach the good section to the anchor and use the combined chain and nylon rode. 40 feet of chain to protect from chafing on the bottom and the nylon for the rest. 220 feet of rode is quite a bit and you can do a line to line splice to add more nylon line if necessary. It seems like your nylon section has probably rarely if never been used based on your description.
do you have a secondary anchor and what is that rode looking like? Can you swap the two of them?

I’ve not cruised much elsewhere, but from what I understand most folks here do max 4:1 scope due to limited space in many anchorages. For that reason, more chain is desirable to keep the rode on the ground and prevent it from pulling up on the anchor whenever there’s a blow. 100’ seems to be a pretty common length among seasoned sailors here. We’ve been enjoying anchoring in deeper water and deploying most of the rode at times, so I’ll keep the length.
Secondary has less chain, and though the rode looks better. It’s shorter and thinner, so I won’t swap that out. Good idea tho!

 

[skunther]

While I don't for certain know why the complaints of chain not lasting, I may have some insights.

With the increased EPA requirements, many hot dipped galvanizers stopped using that process and went to a newly developed process called mechanical galvanizing. Marketing folk loved to make the claim that's it's "as good as" or "just like" hot dipped galvanizing. Unfortunately, that is not technically correct, especially in anchor chain applications.

Mechanically galvanized chain is less expensive to produce so it costs less. The availability of actual hot dipped galvanized has greatly decreased so my guess is those complaining chain doesn't "last like it used to" we're comparing mechanically galvanized chain to what should have been hot dipped galvanized chain. Indeed, in that case the observation is correct.

Make sure you get hot dipped galvanized chain.

Looking at your current chain, I'd recommend replacing the entire 100 feet with bonafide hot dipped galvanized chain.

dj

Peerless states their USA made ACCO chain is HDG. Is this not true?

 

[dLj]

Peerless states their USA made ACCO chain is HDG. Is this not true?

I imagine it's true. Do they provide certs? If yes, then that's what they are doing. If they won't give you a cert, I'd be asking questions.

dj

 

[Terry Cox]

Your picture shows me, time to replace with new. I will never use a repair link on our boat. I've tried all kinds of rope to chain splices and have returned to a thimble and shackle. Replaced our degraded 1991 30' chain with new 50' in 2015. Compared prices with WM. Went with this supplier as they were about 40% less in price for the same brand. High Test – Grade 43 - Wachain.

Went with ACCO brand (Made in USA) hot dipped galvanized 5/16" G4, which fits our gypsy. Even after anchoring many, many times in PNW waters, today it looks the same as new. It gets a fresh water rinse at the end of each cruise.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

I've tried all kinds of rope to chain splices and have returned to a thimble and shackle.

A man after my own heart but how do you get through the gypsy ? I'd be willing to go all chain but we often find ourselves up north and anchoring in 100 ft.+ of water. The boat locker couldn't manage the total weight in all chain rode otherwise I would, just to get away from the rope/chain splice.

 

[Terry Cox]

how do you get through the gypsy

Hi Ralph. Our horizontal windlass has a drum and gypsy together on the same shaft. I always pay the rope and chain in through them both and into the locker by hand. So, when the rope thimble and shackle roll onto the drum with at least some chain, I move the chain onto the gypsy and bring the rest in, feeding them all into the locker by hand. I've always done it this way inspecting the rode as it comes in, especially the thimble and shackle.

Almost had to cut my anchor loose in Sturt Bay. Got hung up on something and would not come up. I would bring the rope taut on the drum and let the wave action against the boat to slowly work the anchor loose. Ended up breaking the right tine weld during the episode, but managed to save the anchor. Had it welded in Lund. Guy did a great job using 316 SS welding rod.

 

[skunther]

Your picture shows me, time to replace with new. I will never use a repair link on our boat. I've tried all kinds of rope to chain splices and have returned to a thimble and shackle. Replaced our degraded 1991 30' chain with new 50' in 2015. Compared prices with WM. Went with this supplier as they were about 40% less in price for the same brand. High Test – Grade 43 - Wachain.

Went with ACCO brand (Made in USA) hot dipped galvanized 5/16" G4, which fits our gypsy. Even after anchoring many, many times in PNW waters, today it looks the same as new. It gets a fresh water rinse at the end of each cruise.

I’ve reached out to WaChain for a quote. I’m looking for the same chain.
I’ve already priced Defender at about 15% below WM’s sale price.
I inspected the rest of the chain more closely. I’m going to replace the entire thing. It doesn’t seem worth keeping the relatively good section and dealing with a link. If I had 200’ of chain with a longer section in good shape, I would probably go with the upsized link.