I am planning to replace the original motor mount on my 1990 Hunter 23. I have searched the archives, and not too much about removal. Some suggested replacements (adjustable/heavy duty)and a 3/4 inch plywood backing plate inside the port locker. I have a honda 4-stroke 5 hp long shaft. My questions: What type of adhesive 5200 or 4200 was used for the original? what should I use for the replacement? Do I need some special adhesive remover? What size backing plate should I use? already have one for the old mount... What vetical lift will get the motor completely out of the water? most adjustable brackets have either 10 or 16 inch vertical lift. Does the brecket need something between it and the transom (exterior)? While I am at it, should I switch my swim ladder and motor mount locations? to better balance the boat. Water, battery, and motor all on the port side. Would probably have to move the stern nav light too. Looking forward to any opinions and suggestions, S/V Winter Solace
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One other thing to consider..very important
Make sure the replacement mount will fit the reverse angle of the H23 transom. Most of the replacements available in WM/BoatUS are adjustable but only from vertical back. I found that out the hard way...like a lot of other things I've learned over the years. However, there are several solutions. You can shop carefully to make sure the mount will fit the reverse transom, you can make a hardwood wedge to compensate for the angle and bring the mount vertical or you can try what I did. I took the stock mount to a machine shop and they're going to try and relocate the pivot bolts so the motor bracket will be vertical. That was a few weeks ago and I'm still waiting for the finished product. The shop gave me a really good price as long as I agreed to let them do the work whenever they could fit it into their extremely busy schedule. Since they did a fantastic job on my extendible mast crutch under the same terms, I'm not about to harass them, Peter H23 "Raven"
Make sure the replacement mount will fit the reverse angle of the H23 transom. Most of the replacements available in WM/BoatUS are adjustable but only from vertical back. I found that out the hard way...like a lot of other things I've learned over the years. However, there are several solutions. You can shop carefully to make sure the mount will fit the reverse transom, you can make a hardwood wedge to compensate for the angle and bring the mount vertical or you can try what I did. I took the stock mount to a machine shop and they're going to try and relocate the pivot bolts so the motor bracket will be vertical. That was a few weeks ago and I'm still waiting for the finished product. The shop gave me a really good price as long as I agreed to let them do the work whenever they could fit it into their extremely busy schedule. Since they did a fantastic job on my extendible mast crutch under the same terms, I'm not about to harass them, Peter H23 "Raven"
More thoughts (a bit long)
Since I'm in the process myself, here goes... The factory mount is fixed, so the new bracket has to be mounted higher up on the transom so the motor mount will be at the same height as the factory mount when it is down. Measure from the top of the mount to the bottom of the skeg, then raise the mount and measure from its top to the waterline to see if the skeg will clear the water. I suspect it won't with the 10-inch mount, but then you can always tilt the motor like you did with the factory mount to get everything out of the water. The only difference between all the mounts I looked at was the retractor spring. The mounts that were rated for bigger motors (more $$$) had stronger springs...that was it. The frames were identical. Look carefully at all the available mounts before you buy, The least expensive one was fine for my 8hp Nissan. Since the new bracket will be mounted higher on the transom, you'll probably need a new backing plate. Ply or Starboard should be OK. If you use ply, paint it with epoxy (West System or Epiglass) before you install it to keep the water out and prevent rot, Do the same when you drill the new mounting holes through the transom and backing plate. What I did was overdrill the holes and fill them with epoxy. I taped over each hole on the inside, made a cup with tape around each one on the outside and poured epoxy in. I had to repeat the process several times, as dry wood absorbs epoxy like you won't believe. Eventually the wood around the holes will become saturated with epoxy, at which point the holes will stay full as the epoxy cures. Give it about 24 hours then redrill the mounting bolt holes to the right size. It takes some time but water will NEVER get into the transom core or the backing plate (if you're using play). While you're at it, use the same technique to fill the holes left by the original mount. You may have to leave the holes open for a few days when you first remove the factory mount so that any water in the wood core of the transom can dry out. Pouring acetone or denatured alcohol into the holes will speed the process. So will a blow dryer...just don't do both at the same time. If you dry out the existing holes before you drill the new holes, you will have eight holes to work on using each batch of epoxy. That's efficient yet comfotable, as you should have about 20 minutes of working time before each batch of epoxy starts to set. Uncured epoxy also cleans up easily with denatured alcohol. Moving the swim ladder, battery and stern light to the other side is a personal choice. I've seen it done both ways. Personally I don't think it's worth the hassle. I just got rid of the water tank. Peter H23 "Raven"
Since I'm in the process myself, here goes... The factory mount is fixed, so the new bracket has to be mounted higher up on the transom so the motor mount will be at the same height as the factory mount when it is down. Measure from the top of the mount to the bottom of the skeg, then raise the mount and measure from its top to the waterline to see if the skeg will clear the water. I suspect it won't with the 10-inch mount, but then you can always tilt the motor like you did with the factory mount to get everything out of the water. The only difference between all the mounts I looked at was the retractor spring. The mounts that were rated for bigger motors (more $$$) had stronger springs...that was it. The frames were identical. Look carefully at all the available mounts before you buy, The least expensive one was fine for my 8hp Nissan. Since the new bracket will be mounted higher on the transom, you'll probably need a new backing plate. Ply or Starboard should be OK. If you use ply, paint it with epoxy (West System or Epiglass) before you install it to keep the water out and prevent rot, Do the same when you drill the new mounting holes through the transom and backing plate. What I did was overdrill the holes and fill them with epoxy. I taped over each hole on the inside, made a cup with tape around each one on the outside and poured epoxy in. I had to repeat the process several times, as dry wood absorbs epoxy like you won't believe. Eventually the wood around the holes will become saturated with epoxy, at which point the holes will stay full as the epoxy cures. Give it about 24 hours then redrill the mounting bolt holes to the right size. It takes some time but water will NEVER get into the transom core or the backing plate (if you're using play). While you're at it, use the same technique to fill the holes left by the original mount. You may have to leave the holes open for a few days when you first remove the factory mount so that any water in the wood core of the transom can dry out. Pouring acetone or denatured alcohol into the holes will speed the process. So will a blow dryer...just don't do both at the same time. If you dry out the existing holes before you drill the new holes, you will have eight holes to work on using each batch of epoxy. That's efficient yet comfotable, as you should have about 20 minutes of working time before each batch of epoxy starts to set. Uncured epoxy also cleans up easily with denatured alcohol. Moving the swim ladder, battery and stern light to the other side is a personal choice. I've seen it done both ways. Personally I don't think it's worth the hassle. I just got rid of the water tank. Peter H23 "Raven"
B
Bob
Transom angle
Good point Peter with reference to the reverse angle of the transom. I used two aluminum wedges under each foot of the motor mount to compensate for the reverse angle or the transom. The top part (wide side) of the wedge measured about 31/2 inches. My motor mount was purchased from West Marine for under $100.00. Additionally, I used a piece of 1/4 inch aluminum plate as a backing for the mount.
Good point Peter with reference to the reverse angle of the transom. I used two aluminum wedges under each foot of the motor mount to compensate for the reverse angle or the transom. The top part (wide side) of the wedge measured about 31/2 inches. My motor mount was purchased from West Marine for under $100.00. Additionally, I used a piece of 1/4 inch aluminum plate as a backing for the mount.
Hey! That aluminum wedge idea is pretty slick!
As a matter of fact I'm calling the machine shop first tomorrow and if they haven't modified the bracket yet, I'm ordering wedges instead. Too cool!!! Peter H23 "Raven"
As a matter of fact I'm calling the machine shop first tomorrow and if they haven't modified the bracket yet, I'm ordering wedges instead. Too cool!!! Peter H23 "Raven"
Peter, Did you pull the old back plate?
Peter, Very good description of what's involved in replacing the motor mount. Since I will need to do this shortly, I have a question: Did you have a backing plate for the original motor mount? If so, did yo u pull it to put a new one on? I have a pretty substantial 3/4 ply backing plate on my 85 H23 and It'd be pretty hard to get that off. I'd rather build around it. Thanks for your input, /Chuck S/V Windsongs H23
Peter, Very good description of what's involved in replacing the motor mount. Since I will need to do this shortly, I have a question: Did you have a backing plate for the original motor mount? If so, did yo u pull it to put a new one on? I have a pretty substantial 3/4 ply backing plate on my 85 H23 and It'd be pretty hard to get that off. I'd rather build around it. Thanks for your input, /Chuck S/V Windsongs H23
B
Bob
To Peter
Peter, I need to amplify my remarks some more if you are going to use the wedges. I used 2 "backing plates" for my installation. One plate goes on the inside and the other goes on the outside of the transom. Therefore, the wedges actually sit on the outside aluminum plate instead of sitting directly on the hull. My goal was to spread the load of the mount over as wide an area as possible. Both the wedges and outside plate were primed then painted to match the color of the hull. Sorry for the confusion.
Peter, I need to amplify my remarks some more if you are going to use the wedges. I used 2 "backing plates" for my installation. One plate goes on the inside and the other goes on the outside of the transom. Therefore, the wedges actually sit on the outside aluminum plate instead of sitting directly on the hull. My goal was to spread the load of the mount over as wide an area as possible. Both the wedges and outside plate were primed then painted to match the color of the hull. Sorry for the confusion.
Chuck and Bob
I don't recall seeing a backing plate inside my transom, but I could be wrong. I'm pretty sure I'll have to install a new one higher up because of the position of the new bracket. As far as the wedges go, the backing plate on the outside does complicate matters slightly. I'll have to discuss it with the machine shop. Thanks for the additional info. Peter H23 "Raven"
I don't recall seeing a backing plate inside my transom, but I could be wrong. I'm pretty sure I'll have to install a new one higher up because of the position of the new bracket. As far as the wedges go, the backing plate on the outside does complicate matters slightly. I'll have to discuss it with the machine shop. Thanks for the additional info. Peter H23 "Raven"
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