Replace Lifelines

[acudavid]

After checking various posts, I need some help replacing my lifelines on my Catalina 30. I would have used one of the kits from Catalina Direct, but they are unavailable due to supply problems—specifically with the hand swaging tool. The company that supplied swagers to CD for many years went out of business during Covid. The replacement swagers are not hard enough and fail. So CD has them on hold. It seems there are less suppliers swaging after Covid. Catalina Direct will eventually supply everything, but my lifelines are rusty and I don’t want any MOB. The local companies want to do the whole job.

I plan to replace some bent stanchions, so I don’t have exact measurements and want to simply cut and swage as I need, rather than get pre-swaged pieces. But if I have to, I can get lines swaged by a rigging company--if I could find a company still in business.

I can easily find hand swagers for a thimble and 7 X 19 or 7 X 7 that use the aluminium ferrule, but I think thimbles on lifelines are an invitation to snag and could lead to a problem. I want to use a pipe style turnbuckle.

This is a question I have. Can the pipe style be hand swaged or does it require a hydraulic swager? And if hydraulic is required, does anyone know of one that is priced for a DIY project? I have looked at this Muzata brand on Amazon for $139:

https://a.co/d/8iBpuUu

It has replacement dies for about $12 a pair in size 3/16. It seems like a good deal, but I think the cheap hydraulic swagers are better for thinner wire, like that used on staircase railings on dry land. It seems to me, if they were a good solution, lots of sailors would be using them.

SailRite offers bolting swage fittings from Suncor. They look tight, but with my upper and lower lifelines with two gates, the $299 X 4 or around $1300 with tax and shipping just for the hardware is less than attractive. I’d rather switch to dyneema, but want stainless cable as my first choice. What I don’t want is to buy 100ft of 316 stainless wire and some expensive hardware, and not be able complete the project safely because of faulty tools.

I am also not sure about cutting the wire. I believe that I need 3/16 wire, and most cutters have a max of 1/8. I saw on a post that a cutting wheel could be used. I would like to use the 1 X 19 stainless. Can anyone recommend a cutter or method of cutting and a swager for pipe-style turnbuckles or any affordable and safe system?
Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Hayden Watson]

I do not know if it will apply to your boat, but I was able to save the very nasty vinyl coated lifelines on my 1988 Mk2 C30. They were all red and cracked and I assumed that they were also terrible inside. I was also going to be completing in a race and the PNW safety regs do not allow vinyl coated lifelines. I took a knife and cut off one side of the coating and the rest just pulled free. It was sticky under the vinyl, so I cleaned it with Wichinox SS Passivation gel, and it removed the stickiness and all of the surface rust. I had no broken wires and no rust. That was about 10-years ago, and they are still bright and shiny.

 

[jssailem]

Replacing lifelines can be accomplished in several ways. This is for Life Lines... cutting corners seems a bit of an oxymoron approach. But I am a believer... It is your boat and our choice.

1. You can try stripping the plastic and then cleaning up the wires. It can work.Be sure to inspect the swaged fittings.
2. You can get bids from local chandlers like West Marine... Take in the old lines and have them "Machine Swage" the lifelines (the best build practice).
3. You can buy the Johnson Marine Splice Line Fittings and tie your own dyneema lines.

It is always time to inspect your life lines.

Johnson Marine's Splice Line Fittings

Johnson Marine’s splice line fittings allow you to easily and reliably splice Dyneema or Spectra line onto a variety of different lifeline terminals when swapping out high-modulus line for stainless steel wire lifelines. The fittings are machined from 6061-T6 aluminum and are anodized to ensure...

www.sailmagazine.com

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Can anyone recommend a cutter or method of cutting

A Dremel with a small carborundum wheel MAY be able to cut the wire. They can cut everything else and they're certainly cheap enough.

 

[dlochner]

The cost difference between DIY SS lifelines and those made by a rigger is very small. If you remove the lifelines and mail them to a good rigger they will duplicate them and mail them back. This is what I did when I replaced mine. Certainly much easier and less problematic than finding tools and wondering how to do the job and wondering if you did the job correctly.

I used Rigging Only in Fairhaven Ma. Quick turnaround, fair pricing, and good quality.

 

[jssailem]

I used WM a couple of years ago. They used a Machine swage. Cost for all SS lines in a size up from the Plastic Coated lines for my 35ft Boat was $660. Completed in 7 days.

 

[Joe]

First, before I forget. You can easily cut the 3/16 SS wire with a jig saw and metal cutting blade. I wrapped some tape around the cut, just like you do with rope, to discourage unraveling.

Order new stanchions from Garhauer Marine. Pay the extra charge for heavy duty welded bases. You can go online to see products an prices, but you'll want to order via telephone from for reassurance that you're getting the best product for you C30. Over the years, Garhauer has provided OEM hardware form many Catalina models.
For the wire and related hardware I highly recommend Downwind Marine, which is a part of San Diego Marine Exchange.
The best way to deal with both places is over the phone. Especially with Downwind Marine/Sailing Supply. You'll want to ask them about their crimping tool and wire rather than try to find it in the online catalogue. I purchased a crimper, the kind that you uses bolt

I replaced all my stanchions and lifelines in 2016 using both these sources. Prices are very good, I think. However, any place like Rig-rite or Rigging Only would provide competitive service for the wire and hardware. The stanchions though, no one can compete with Garhaurer service or quality.

I used a hand swaging tool like this.... Works fine. shop around online... I've seen them range from $20 to $65+ I think I paid $44 for a Johnson model from Downwind. Okay, good luck.

 

[kloudie1]

I used thhe same tool as Joe when replacing my Katrina-smitten ones in '05. The swages seem to be as strong as the machine done ones , but they don't look quite as nice. At the top of the stanchion in the mid right of the picture, you can see the hand crimped fittings showing how they have a "wrinkles" from the multiple clamp swages .. I used a drill driver to tighten and loosen the clamp bolts, with a final hand wrench tight to save a bunch of time. Prep of the wire is important, and the ends should be thoroughly cleaned with a solvent to insure that there is no lube in the wire or the fitting. The Johnson fittings and gate pelican hooks are first class. Yup that is a mess in the cockpit!

 

[stickinthemud57]

I replaced my SS lifelines with Dyneema and am very pleased with the results. In your case it comes down to whether or not you have the time to do it yourself.

 

[jssailem]

Looks like a normal mess, not a special mess for the photo..

 

[stickinthemud57]

A Dremel with a small carborundum wheel MAY be able to cut the wire. They can cut everything else and they're certainly cheap enough.

This approach works well in my experience. The wheels come dozens to a pack and breaking one is common. Use high speed, hold the Dremel tool steady (it will try to get away from you), cut slowly, and for God's sake wear eye protection. Wrapping the area to be cut in tape is a good idea.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

The wheels come dozens to a pack and breaking one is common.

I wonder if you're using the straight carborundum grinding wheels. They can break and shatter and scare the hell out of you. The ones I always use now are about 1 mm. thick and made of woven fibreglass mixed with coarse carborundum.

You can bend them in half and destroy them but they won't break apart.

 

[stickinthemud57]

I wonder if you're using the straight carborundum grinding wheels. They can break and shatter and scare the hell out of you. The ones I always use now are about 1 mm. thick and made of woven fibreglass mixed with coarse carborundum.

View attachment 211315

You can bend them in half and destroy them but they won't break apart.

I think you are correct. I'm so used to them disintegrating that it doesn't alarm me anymore, and they are so cheap that I don't really care. I should look into getting some of the ones you describe, and thanks for making me aware of them!

 

[Project_Mayhem]

West Marine often has a DIY swaging setup in their stores

 

[Tally Ho]

I wonder if you're using the straight carborundum grinding wheels. They can break and shatter and scare the hell out of you. The ones I always use now are about 1 mm. thick and made of woven fibreglass mixed with coarse carborundum.

View attachment 211315

You can bend them in half and destroy them but they won't break apart.

Remember to wear eye protection when using those.

I had one shatter and hit me in the face and chest…yes, it scared the hell out of me!

Greg

 

[Terry Cox]

Hi David. Replaced the lifelines on our H28 many years ago. The local chandlery where I purchased the materials had all the tools necessary to do the job myself and I saved a bundle. The owner had a hand operated swaging tool that was similar to a chain link cutter. Used the same plastic coated lifelines that came with the boat when new. At some point will do the same with our current boat when it is time.

 

[Leeward Rail]

This is a question I have. Can the pipe style be hand swaged or does it require a hydraulic swager? And if hydraulic is required, does anyone know of one that is priced for a DIY project? I have looked at this Muzata brand on Amazon for $139:

I had planned to add a gate to my lifelines. Upon some investigation, the cheap hydraulic swagers you see on Amazon are crap. The dies are not well made and most are the wrong size for lifelines. If you can find a good quality one.. aka not from China, it will likely much more expensive.

I would feel better using a manual one from Johnson along with their matching fittings.

 

[Joe]

West Marine often has a DIY swaging setup in their stores

Most do, I agree. But, you'll need to buy your hardware from them too. Uncool to buy stuff somewhere else and bring it in to their store. so if you buy your hardware from them, they will loan you the tools anyway. You'll want to do everything at the boat anyway to insure proper fit.

You should also know that there will be disclaimers on any type of DIY lifeline tools and hardware that use the crimp style swages are not suitable for rigging applications. I'll leave it to someone else to explain why.

 

[jssailem]

If you are making a decision about rigging of your boat, you should do your own research and not rely on the suggestions of other sailors. Sure, tread what they say and discuss the issues with dock mates, but your decision should be based on your knowledge of the risks and solutions. When the rigging works you can be proud of your choice. Should the rigging fail, only one around is you to resolve that the decision was not a good one.

If you are unsure about the risks and solutions, perhaps it is better to consult a professional in your local area.

Based on my research, the best method to address swaged terminus lifelines was by the use of a mechanical swage. The mechanical swage was able to compress the terminal fitting with enough force to compress the wire into a solid unit yet not break the strands.

Even though I found that acceptable, I still inspect the lifelines before I leave on a cruise.

 

[stickinthemud57]

If you are unsure about the risks and solutions, perhaps it is better to consult a professional in your local area.

This