removehtml]I posted a question last week in the "all sailboats" section about my Jabsco head problems. I got a lot of good advice. I realized later I probably should have posted the question here. In one of the threads, I saw a reference to a suggestion to replace the 1 1/2" hose exiting my toilet with PVC pipe. I did a forum search and couldn't find it. Can anyone help? What are the pros and cons of doing this? Thanks, AgalihaError: Error: expected [/URL], but found [/removehtml] instead[/removehtml]
replace hose with PVC?
- Thread starter agaliha
- Start date
- Status
No !!
Unfortunately that is bad advice and it's a good thing you did not find that post! On boats, due to movement, rigid pipe is a no, no unless it's a short tail piece for a drain or something similar. Plus you'll have about fifty, 45 & 90's to even get the pipe to the thru-hull with all the twisting and contorting that needs to be done on a boat. Watch your head the next time you pump it and watch how much the pump body moves when you are doing this! PVC will not hold up well to flexing and your insurance company can, may & will, in certain cases, deny coverage if a PVC fitting were to fail, crack or cause a sinking or serious water damage to your boat. Most all marine experts, insurance companies, marine surveyors, boat builders and the ABYC are in agreement that non-flexible items such as the use of solid copper wire vs. multi stranded wire, flexible LPG rated rubber hose vs. 3/8 copper pipe and flexible marine rated hoses for below waterline applications vs. rigid pipe or PVC should NOT be used. So in short don't use solid copper wire, copper for LPG gas or PVC for below waterline applications.. For future reference you should ALWAYS use proper marine rated components below the waterline including hoses & valves! Why? The most important reason is that the insurance industry has been clobbered in recent years by hurricanes and claims and they have stepped up efforts to DENY coverage at all cost (a buddy works in the industry as an adjuster and passes this stuff on to me)! If your boat were to sink and the adjuster finds say a non-marine rated, plastic PVC ball valve or a corroded, non-marine rated, yellow brass "Home Depot" ball valve threaded to the thru-hull to be the cause you may be sh&t out of luck!!!
Unfortunately that is bad advice and it's a good thing you did not find that post! On boats, due to movement, rigid pipe is a no, no unless it's a short tail piece for a drain or something similar. Plus you'll have about fifty, 45 & 90's to even get the pipe to the thru-hull with all the twisting and contorting that needs to be done on a boat. Watch your head the next time you pump it and watch how much the pump body moves when you are doing this! PVC will not hold up well to flexing and your insurance company can, may & will, in certain cases, deny coverage if a PVC fitting were to fail, crack or cause a sinking or serious water damage to your boat. Most all marine experts, insurance companies, marine surveyors, boat builders and the ABYC are in agreement that non-flexible items such as the use of solid copper wire vs. multi stranded wire, flexible LPG rated rubber hose vs. 3/8 copper pipe and flexible marine rated hoses for below waterline applications vs. rigid pipe or PVC should NOT be used. So in short don't use solid copper wire, copper for LPG gas or PVC for below waterline applications.. For future reference you should ALWAYS use proper marine rated components below the waterline including hoses & valves! Why? The most important reason is that the insurance industry has been clobbered in recent years by hurricanes and claims and they have stepped up efforts to DENY coverage at all cost (a buddy works in the industry as an adjuster and passes this stuff on to me)! If your boat were to sink and the adjuster finds say a non-marine rated, plastic PVC ball valve or a corroded, non-marine rated, yellow brass "Home Depot" ball valve threaded to the thru-hull to be the cause you may be sh&t out of luck!!!
Use white hose
Use the best quality white sanitation hose you can buy. This is no time to save money. The better hose will not permeate odors. If you still have the black factory installed hose it will easier to remove it if you cut it right next to where it leads into the cabinet. Otherwise it fits so tight you'll struggle to pull it through. Just flush an adequate amount of fresh water through the system to prevent dripping "nasty" water in the head. I also found that removing the fitting from the back of the toilet, attaching the new hose, then reattaching the fitting is the best way to get that end of the hose connected. Just make sure you reattach the fitting properly or you'll get drips. Good luck Mike
Use the best quality white sanitation hose you can buy. This is no time to save money. The better hose will not permeate odors. If you still have the black factory installed hose it will easier to remove it if you cut it right next to where it leads into the cabinet. Otherwise it fits so tight you'll struggle to pull it through. Just flush an adequate amount of fresh water through the system to prevent dripping "nasty" water in the head. I also found that removing the fitting from the back of the toilet, attaching the new hose, then reattaching the fitting is the best way to get that end of the hose connected. Just make sure you reattach the fitting properly or you'll get drips. Good luck Mike
Pulling Old Hose Out
Always duct tape a heavy plastic bag over the ends of the old hose when pulling it out. It reduces the mess that can occur. Also, some times you can tape the new hose to the old hose (butt to butt) and pull one out as the other is pulled in. But don't use PVC pipe. It will crack eventually due to the vibration. Jim
Always duct tape a heavy plastic bag over the ends of the old hose when pulling it out. It reduces the mess that can occur. Also, some times you can tape the new hose to the old hose (butt to butt) and pull one out as the other is pulled in. But don't use PVC pipe. It will crack eventually due to the vibration. Jim
Just Do It!
I've personally installed PVC waste plumbing on 10-12 vessels and never had a problem. Sealand makes adapters that can easily merge from sanitation hose to inch and a half PVC. The PVC will last ten times longer and never stink. It costs a small fraction of the price of sanitation hose. Fitting like unions end all types of elbows cost pennies. There is no negative side to this inless you sell marine sanitation hose or write books about it. You will need a very short piece of sanitation hose to connect to your fixtures. I've used PVC with all types of marine heads including Vacuflush. I've personally sold vessels which had PVC waste lines on the and surveyors generally agree that sanitation hose is inferior, more expensive and less effective
I've personally installed PVC waste plumbing on 10-12 vessels and never had a problem. Sealand makes adapters that can easily merge from sanitation hose to inch and a half PVC. The PVC will last ten times longer and never stink. It costs a small fraction of the price of sanitation hose. Fitting like unions end all types of elbows cost pennies. There is no negative side to this inless you sell marine sanitation hose or write books about it. You will need a very short piece of sanitation hose to connect to your fixtures. I've used PVC with all types of marine heads including Vacuflush. I've personally sold vessels which had PVC waste lines on the and surveyors generally agree that sanitation hose is inferior, more expensive and less effective
- Status