How to you get to, and replace the fresh water tank on a 1978, 25H. Cherubini model. It leaks when full, and can't get to it, or I'm going aboutit all wrong. Appreciate the help, I'm new at this.
I'm in the process of building new tanks for my H37C. Here is a link to the photos of the tank removal. I would imagine yours come out the same way. If you'd like to dicuss the removal and manufacture of new tanks e-mail me at Captronbob@yahoo.com and I will send you a drawing and let you know exactly what I ran into.... Ron
...the tank is accessable from the starboard lasserette. My boat has no bulkheads between the lasserettes and the interior (does anyone know if this was as built? It doesn't seem safe to have the lockers with the outboard gas, and batteries contiguous with the interior space) so maybe it is hidden behind the bulk heads that I should have. At any rate, it is directly below the foward section of the starboard cockpit seat (this puts it directly behind the sink and I think below it). The top of the tank is 24-36 inches below the top of the bench. The filler opening is on the top toward the stern (I think). If me taking any measurements next time I'm at the boat will help let me know (popsla@yahoo.com). I could also be of no help at all if they changed the tank location between 75 and 78 (does anyone know if this boat used to have bulkheads between the lasserettes and the cabin?).
In answer to the question-- yes, apparently the H-25 WAS built with the galley and tanks and cockpit lockers and bilge and fuel-tank shelf all contiguous. I have NO idea why. If they'd gone on MY input there would have been all separate compartments with removable drain plugs (which is what I will be doing to the 1975 H-25 Mk 1 I am making settlement on this month in fact). I hate to say it but Hunter was notoriously cheap in some periods of operation and this may be evidence of it. It's like they treated the 25 like a mere daysailer (like the Mac 26) which as we know it obviously is not. I strongly recommend a bulkhead installed aft of the galley structure and one partitioning off the fuel-tank shelf from the rest, ALL glassed in to be passing water-tight and fitted with clean-out plates or screw-in plugs in order to let them drain into the common bilge (so the pump get to them all). Also-- the bunk tops, shelves along the inside of the hull, and the head-compartment shelves and partitions should all be glassed to the inside of the hull too. Ensure the hull shape is relatively sound and then go for it. Such 'egg-crating' to the hull can only help a boat noted for scary-looking 'oil-canning', and it would have been what my dad would have recommended to the factory as the common knowledge suggested it. JC 2
Appreciate the responses, and now will look to cut a bit to replace the tank. I know where to cut, which I deem absolute. As to constructing additional bulkheads, that may be a bit much John, however I love the boat, and sails exceptionally well, and very responsive to a novice such as I.
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