Repairs/bulkhead/chainplates/geno track screws

[Steve]

Hello,Just purchased a 1986 Catalina 27 Tall Rig. It surveyed well except for three things. I got a good price reduction because of these. I was going to have the Marina fix them, but I just found out I'm being furloughed from my job in March. I'll have the time and would like to save the labor cost by fixing them myself. I'm patient and would like to take my time and do it right. Any advice on the best way to go about fixing the items would be greatly appreciatied.1: Genoa track screws (four on one side) leaking into the cabin. (surveyor says very low moisture on his meter, but they are leaking).2: Upper port/starboard chainplates leaking. (once again, low moisture on his meter, but they are starting to leak)3: Forward bulkhead (between head and v-berth) has a section 2 inches high by 18 inches long that is rotting at the floor .(surveryor recommended cutting out and replacing). How would you recommend bonding the new marine plywood into the cutout section.Thankyou very much for your time,steves/v Barefootbarefootsailing@aol.com

 

[Wanderer138]

Sealing deck fittings

I'm having a similar problem at the moment with rot. Mike and R.W. are correct. Use LifeCaulk to seal genoa tracks, chainplates and anything else that is bolted to the deck. It's a polysulfide sealant that won't lose its seal when it moves. However it will eventually lose its elasticity with age and should be replaced every other year or so. Removal of old caulking and rebedding deck fittings is part of routine maintenance. Silicone sealants like 3M 5200 should NOT be used for this purpose. They leak when subjected to movement and are impossible to remove from the fitting and deck for rebedding.Here's a hint for fast, neat caulking of deck fittings. After you've removed the old caulk, mask off the area on the deck with tape, leaving about 1/16 of an inch beyond the edge of the base. Caulk as before, wipe up the excess with a rag and then lift the tape. Voila! A clean, sharp edge.I'd also suggest using GitRot or other low-viscosity epoxy (such as Interlux Epiglass) for sealing and strengthening the wood core of your deck. Tape the holes from below and fill them from the top with epoxy. You may have to top up the holes as the epoxy soaks into the wood. When the epoxy cures, drill out the holes and install your fittings.Check the bottom of your bulkhead carefully. If it's not too bad, GitRot should cure it. Otherwise, you have to remove and replace the bad wood. Make the cut in sound wood above the rotted area. Keep the cut piece because you'll need it later to use as a template to shape the new piece. Grind out all the bad wood (you may have to down into the slot all the way to fiberglass). Shape the new piece of wood. This is where the old cut piece comes in handy. When you're satisfied with the fit, seal the replacement wood with epoxy, and check the fit again. Then pour epoxy into the slot and drop in the new piece. Bond the upper edge to the old bulkhead with more epoxy. That should do it.Sorry to hear about the job, but as you pointed out it does give you time to work on the boat. I wish I had some time myself! BTW, I just learned that the metal piece on the deck that covers the chainplate opening is called a beauty plate. Who would have thunk it?PeterH23 "Raven"