The hand pump for the head is very hard to draw up and to push down. I am going to take the punp apart and see if I can clean it or if it is clogged. Has anyone else had this problem. I know there is a kit to replace the parts but if it just needs to be cleaned out, do I need some kind of sealant when I put it back together.
Repairing or replacing the head pump
- Thread starter sheila10693
- Start date
- Status
Once a year
you should rebuild your head pump. The o-rings start to crack and the valves start to not seat properly. Plus all of the lubricate finally goes away. This is when they start to squeak and become hard to pump.
you should rebuild your head pump. The o-rings start to crack and the valves start to not seat properly. Plus all of the lubricate finally goes away. This is when they start to squeak and become hard to pump.
Before you do anything else...
Try lubricating the pump. All new toilet leave the factory slathered with thick synthetic teflon grease that lasts a season, maybe two...but eventually is all washed out...the pump becomes hard to pump and squeaks from the friction of the rubber seals and o-rings rubbing against the inside of the pump cylinder (and being worn away). To find out if lubrication is all it needs, put about a tablespoon of baby oil in the bowl and flush the toilet. If that cures the problem, you have two choices: you can keep doing that every couple of weeks...or you can spend 10 minutes replacing the factory lubrication now--and again just once every spring as preventive maintenance as part of your spring recommissioning. I like doing things just once a year instead of fighting never ending battles. If you do too, buy a tube of thick teflon grease...available from most auto parts stores, bicycle shops and swimming pool supply stores. If you toilet is a Jabsco, remove the top of the pump...which, depending on the age of the toilet either requires removing 6 screws or just loosening one hex nut. Put a healthy squirt of the grease into the pump...pump a few times to spread it all over the inside of the cylinder wall...put the top back on...you're done with lubing the toilet till next year. I'm 90% certain that'll solve your problem. If it doesn't get back to me again BEFORE you start taking anything apart...'cuz the problem may not require it. Jim, you're spending way too much money for toilet rebuild kits. It should not be necessary to rebuild ANY toilet annually. Even a Jabsco should only require rebuilding about once every 3 years if it's kept well-lubricated. For less than you're spending for rebuild kits, you could replace yours with a PH II that should only require rebuilding about 5-6 years.
Try lubricating the pump. All new toilet leave the factory slathered with thick synthetic teflon grease that lasts a season, maybe two...but eventually is all washed out...the pump becomes hard to pump and squeaks from the friction of the rubber seals and o-rings rubbing against the inside of the pump cylinder (and being worn away). To find out if lubrication is all it needs, put about a tablespoon of baby oil in the bowl and flush the toilet. If that cures the problem, you have two choices: you can keep doing that every couple of weeks...or you can spend 10 minutes replacing the factory lubrication now--and again just once every spring as preventive maintenance as part of your spring recommissioning. I like doing things just once a year instead of fighting never ending battles. If you do too, buy a tube of thick teflon grease...available from most auto parts stores, bicycle shops and swimming pool supply stores. If you toilet is a Jabsco, remove the top of the pump...which, depending on the age of the toilet either requires removing 6 screws or just loosening one hex nut. Put a healthy squirt of the grease into the pump...pump a few times to spread it all over the inside of the cylinder wall...put the top back on...you're done with lubing the toilet till next year. I'm 90% certain that'll solve your problem. If it doesn't get back to me again BEFORE you start taking anything apart...'cuz the problem may not require it. Jim, you're spending way too much money for toilet rebuild kits. It should not be necessary to rebuild ANY toilet annually. Even a Jabsco should only require rebuilding about once every 3 years if it's kept well-lubricated. For less than you're spending for rebuild kits, you could replace yours with a PH II that should only require rebuilding about 5-6 years.
Well Peggy
When I replace the pump each spring (ie., rebuild), the Admiral doesn't complain about squeaky sounds and water flowing back into the bowel. And when the Admiral is happy, everybody is happy.
When I replace the pump each spring (ie., rebuild), the Admiral doesn't complain about squeaky sounds and water flowing back into the bowel. And when the Admiral is happy, everybody is happy.
But there are easier cheaper ways
To keep the admiral happy than "trading the car when it gets dirty"--which is essentially what you're doing. You've already spent upwards of $500 to "maintain" a $100 toilet...when all you really need to do is lube the pump once a year...rebuild it every 3-4 years. Or if you really want to make her happy, give her a toilet that's easier to flush, a lot more efficient, and a LOT harder for guest to clog.
To keep the admiral happy than "trading the car when it gets dirty"--which is essentially what you're doing. You've already spent upwards of $500 to "maintain" a $100 toilet...when all you really need to do is lube the pump once a year...rebuild it every 3-4 years. Or if you really want to make her happy, give her a toilet that's easier to flush, a lot more efficient, and a LOT harder for guest to clog.
About the water flowing back in...
New owner of a H31 here... My toilet has water seeping back into the bowl from the holding tank. I looked at the Jabsco manual and was thinking that it is the 'joker' valve but am now wondering from the discussion on this thread if it could be the pump. Without getting in the middle of the 'how often to rebuild' debate (and without wondering if I should promote my Commodore to Admiral for parity with other parties), I seek expert advice on my current plan to buy the overhaul kit ($59.95 at West, anybody know where to get it for less??) on the assumption that when I take the toilet apart looking for the problem, it would be best to replace all the gaskets, o-rings and other stuff and start fresh with a baselined toilet. Thanks in advance for your advice. This is my first post, many more to come, I'm sure as I work my way through the boat, learning as I go. Cheers, Bob Werner s/v X Sail R 8
New owner of a H31 here... My toilet has water seeping back into the bowl from the holding tank. I looked at the Jabsco manual and was thinking that it is the 'joker' valve but am now wondering from the discussion on this thread if it could be the pump. Without getting in the middle of the 'how often to rebuild' debate (and without wondering if I should promote my Commodore to Admiral for parity with other parties), I seek expert advice on my current plan to buy the overhaul kit ($59.95 at West, anybody know where to get it for less??) on the assumption that when I take the toilet apart looking for the problem, it would be best to replace all the gaskets, o-rings and other stuff and start fresh with a baselined toilet. Thanks in advance for your advice. This is my first post, many more to come, I'm sure as I work my way through the boat, learning as I go. Cheers, Bob Werner s/v X Sail R 8
Head replacement
I have a 2001 410 with two Jabsco entry level heads. I have religiously lubed the plungers per Peggy's suggestion. And, each has been "serviced" with the kits from WM. Bob: You can get up to a 40% discount on anything in the West Marine catalog through a place in Costa Mesa, CA. It is "Boat Builders and Sailors" 949-548-9618. Brian Armstrong is the owner. I just took Peggy's suggestion and am today replacing one of my Jabscos with the Raritan PHII. I got this from Boat Builders for $210 plus tax. I gave up on the Jabsco because I tightened two of the pump screws too tight and it cracked their female screw holes. Water was leaking. I figured why add more money to a toilet that only costs $140 new and will only last a short time. I'll do the second head when it gives up the ship. I plan to do a post with picture added tonight after my hopefully successful refit. John Richard s/v Jack's Place ~~__/)~~
I have a 2001 410 with two Jabsco entry level heads. I have religiously lubed the plungers per Peggy's suggestion. And, each has been "serviced" with the kits from WM. Bob: You can get up to a 40% discount on anything in the West Marine catalog through a place in Costa Mesa, CA. It is "Boat Builders and Sailors" 949-548-9618. Brian Armstrong is the owner. I just took Peggy's suggestion and am today replacing one of my Jabscos with the Raritan PHII. I got this from Boat Builders for $210 plus tax. I gave up on the Jabsco because I tightened two of the pump screws too tight and it cracked their female screw holes. Water was leaking. I figured why add more money to a toilet that only costs $140 new and will only last a short time. I'll do the second head when it gives up the ship. I plan to do a post with picture added tonight after my hopefully successful refit. John Richard s/v Jack's Place ~~__/)~~
Welcome aboard, Bob!
If the water is dirty, it's backflow from the head discharge. If it's clean, it's flush water from the intake. Whichever it is, you won't cure it by taking the pump apart or rebuilding it...'cuz if it's flush water, the part that's leaking isn't in the rebuild kit...if it's backflow, a new joker valve will only slow it down. Is water rising in the bowl when boat sits? Or only when you're underway or shortly after you come in from sailing? Even if a rebuild kit would cure the problem, I would not spend $50 for a rebuild kit for a toilet that's usually on sale somewhere for $99. The Raritan PH II (or PHC, which is the same pump on a compact base to fit in a tighter space) will give you at least 20 years of reliable trouble-free service with minimal maintenance--keep it well lubricated, rebuild every 5-6 years. And it will easily "swallow" flushes that choke a Jabsco. As for West Marine, their prices have gotten ridiculous! Their prices on almost everything is 10-50% higher than factory LIST price now...I was stunned to see that their price for a 22 oz bottle of Raritan K.O. is a whopping $17.95...LIST price is only $11.90. So before you buy anything there, shop around! Meanwhile, I also suggest you do two things: 1. check out the link below to learn how marine toilets work and how to maintain your whole system. 2. There has been a lot of discussion here about water rising in the bowl, especially in the last week or two...so read the previous threads in the "Head Mistress" forum, and also search the archives for posts about toilets in other forums (as you can see from this threads, they show up in all of 'em, which definitely keeps ME hopping!)...you should find quite a bit about marine toilet and holding tank issues if you search all forums by poster using my name as your keyword.
If the water is dirty, it's backflow from the head discharge. If it's clean, it's flush water from the intake. Whichever it is, you won't cure it by taking the pump apart or rebuilding it...'cuz if it's flush water, the part that's leaking isn't in the rebuild kit...if it's backflow, a new joker valve will only slow it down. Is water rising in the bowl when boat sits? Or only when you're underway or shortly after you come in from sailing? Even if a rebuild kit would cure the problem, I would not spend $50 for a rebuild kit for a toilet that's usually on sale somewhere for $99. The Raritan PH II (or PHC, which is the same pump on a compact base to fit in a tighter space) will give you at least 20 years of reliable trouble-free service with minimal maintenance--keep it well lubricated, rebuild every 5-6 years. And it will easily "swallow" flushes that choke a Jabsco. As for West Marine, their prices have gotten ridiculous! Their prices on almost everything is 10-50% higher than factory LIST price now...I was stunned to see that their price for a 22 oz bottle of Raritan K.O. is a whopping $17.95...LIST price is only $11.90. So before you buy anything there, shop around! Meanwhile, I also suggest you do two things: 1. check out the link below to learn how marine toilets work and how to maintain your whole system. 2. There has been a lot of discussion here about water rising in the bowl, especially in the last week or two...so read the previous threads in the "Head Mistress" forum, and also search the archives for posts about toilets in other forums (as you can see from this threads, they show up in all of 'em, which definitely keeps ME hopping!)...you should find quite a bit about marine toilet and holding tank issues if you search all forums by poster using my name as your keyword.
Pondering a heady issue!
Thanks for the info, Peggy and Jack. First step will be to pump the holding tank - taking care that it does pump and I don't have a clogged vent. Did that once before and it seemed to work OK. Peggy, I take your point on replacing the toilet, but want to avoid the expense and trouble if possible. (BTW, I already had the link to your book, will order it posthaste, along with those snazzy winch covers I have my eye on and ......) My limited knowledge points to the joker valve.... isn't that what is supposed to keep stuff flowing only 1 way? If replacing the valve won't fix the problem, does that mean that the tube or pipe that the valve moves in is the culprit? There is no vent loop between the pump and the holding tank (there is one on the overboard discharge from the tank through the macerator), but it appears that the hose has a slight uphill run to the top edge of the tank. Waitaminit.... I'm going to pump the tank before I get deeper into this - I'm wondering how the water in the hose could be backing up into the bowl, which is above the level of the hose, unless the tank is full.... Well, I bought this boat partially to learn about this stuff..... guess it's working. I just found the Maxwell winch drawings on this site... they're pretty well hidden. I managed to get mine apart and cleaned and lubed and re-installed without them. I think my first contribution to the group will be a set of pictures of the winches as they are being assembled. Off topic, does anybody know of somewhere to get parts for the old Maxwells? Cheers, Bob s/v X SAIL R 8
Thanks for the info, Peggy and Jack. First step will be to pump the holding tank - taking care that it does pump and I don't have a clogged vent. Did that once before and it seemed to work OK. Peggy, I take your point on replacing the toilet, but want to avoid the expense and trouble if possible. (BTW, I already had the link to your book, will order it posthaste, along with those snazzy winch covers I have my eye on and ......) My limited knowledge points to the joker valve.... isn't that what is supposed to keep stuff flowing only 1 way? If replacing the valve won't fix the problem, does that mean that the tube or pipe that the valve moves in is the culprit? There is no vent loop between the pump and the holding tank (there is one on the overboard discharge from the tank through the macerator), but it appears that the hose has a slight uphill run to the top edge of the tank. Waitaminit.... I'm going to pump the tank before I get deeper into this - I'm wondering how the water in the hose could be backing up into the bowl, which is above the level of the hose, unless the tank is full.... Well, I bought this boat partially to learn about this stuff..... guess it's working. I just found the Maxwell winch drawings on this site... they're pretty well hidden. I managed to get mine apart and cleaned and lubed and re-installed without them. I think my first contribution to the group will be a set of pictures of the winches as they are being assembled. Off topic, does anybody know of somewhere to get parts for the old Maxwells? Cheers, Bob s/v X SAIL R 8
Stop wondering...
You said, "...but it appears that the hose has a slight uphill run to the top edge of the tank.I'm wondering how the water in the hose could be backing up into the bowl, which is above the level of the hose, unless the tank is full...." If you aren't flushing long enough in the dry mode to move everything in the hose all the way into the tank--which, if your tank is much further than about 6' from the toilet may not be possible--any waste/flush water left in the hose is gonna run back downhill to the lowest point in the hose. Repeated flushing that leaves waste or water in the hose will add more water to it...till the hose becomes full of water...at which point it's gonna get out of the hose through the point of least resistance--which would be through the joker valve into bowl. So replacing the joker valve isn't gonna completely cure the problem. It may for a short time, till the slit in it gets stretched a micro-mini-milimeter by waste and water passing through it...then it's gonna leak. But that's ok, 'cuz a joker valve isn't supposed to completely block ANY seepage...it's only supposed to block a major backflow that could overflow the bowl before anyone could do anything about it. In the days when all toilets flushed directly overboard, that was important...'cuz a sea water siphon from the discharge thru-hull could sink a boat. Today, about the only thing it's supposed to do is slow down any seepage in the line between toilet and the tank.
You said, "...but it appears that the hose has a slight uphill run to the top edge of the tank.I'm wondering how the water in the hose could be backing up into the bowl, which is above the level of the hose, unless the tank is full...." If you aren't flushing long enough in the dry mode to move everything in the hose all the way into the tank--which, if your tank is much further than about 6' from the toilet may not be possible--any waste/flush water left in the hose is gonna run back downhill to the lowest point in the hose. Repeated flushing that leaves waste or water in the hose will add more water to it...till the hose becomes full of water...at which point it's gonna get out of the hose through the point of least resistance--which would be through the joker valve into bowl. So replacing the joker valve isn't gonna completely cure the problem. It may for a short time, till the slit in it gets stretched a micro-mini-milimeter by waste and water passing through it...then it's gonna leak. But that's ok, 'cuz a joker valve isn't supposed to completely block ANY seepage...it's only supposed to block a major backflow that could overflow the bowl before anyone could do anything about it. In the days when all toilets flushed directly overboard, that was important...'cuz a sea water siphon from the discharge thru-hull could sink a boat. Today, about the only thing it's supposed to do is slow down any seepage in the line between toilet and the tank.
More pondering
Thanks for the info. I'm going to check the elevation of the hose and pump the tank before I do anything else, especially anything that involves money. It seems that unless the hose from the pump to the holding tank has a downhill run, there isn't any way to get the water out of it. I don't know much about the pump, but it is pumping something, be it water or air, and if it is in dry mode, it has to be pumping air, and short puffs of air ain't gonna pump water up hill with any efficiency. I'll be back..... didn't somebody out here say that recently.....??? After I pump the tank and do some more looking at the situation. Cheers, Bob s/v X SAIL R 8
Thanks for the info. I'm going to check the elevation of the hose and pump the tank before I do anything else, especially anything that involves money. It seems that unless the hose from the pump to the holding tank has a downhill run, there isn't any way to get the water out of it. I don't know much about the pump, but it is pumping something, be it water or air, and if it is in dry mode, it has to be pumping air, and short puffs of air ain't gonna pump water up hill with any efficiency. I'll be back..... didn't somebody out here say that recently.....??? After I pump the tank and do some more looking at the situation. Cheers, Bob s/v X SAIL R 8
I just added the new Raritan
I have completed the installation of a new Raritan to replace a broken Jabsco. Check my web site under "What's New" for a photo display on the project. I hope Peggy thinks it was well done. The new head works wonderfully and puts the Jabsco to shame. John Richard s/v Jack's Place
I have completed the installation of a new Raritan to replace a broken Jabsco. Check my web site under "What's New" for a photo display on the project. I hope Peggy thinks it was well done. The new head works wonderfully and puts the Jabsco to shame. John Richard s/v Jack's Place
Looks good...only two things you need to correct
1. I suspect that the "extra" two hoses you removed were the hoses to and from a vented loop in the intake, between the pump and the bowl..'cuz Jabsco toilets only have two hose connections too--all manual toilets only have two...vented loops have to be added when needed. Which means that those hoses to and from a vented loop AREN'T extra...a vented loop in the intake IS needed in all toilet installations below the waterline. I strongly urge you to put it back....'cuz it's the only thing that will prevent water from flooding your bowl if the dry/flush valve is left in the "flush" mode. If you should forget to close the intake thru-hull AND accidentally leave the valve in the "flush" mode when you leave the boat, your boat can sink in her slip! That vented loop wouldn't have been there if it weren't needed...'cuz they aren't supplied with any toilet...it could only have been added because it IS needed. Your hose clamp screws should be on opposite sides of the hose...'cuz when a clamp is tightened it can create a pucker in the hose under the screw that can leak. The second clamp can also put a pucker in the hose, but it closes the one the first clamp created....unless the screws are aligned. A small thing, but can drive you crazy trying to figure out why it's leaking if it does leak.
1. I suspect that the "extra" two hoses you removed were the hoses to and from a vented loop in the intake, between the pump and the bowl..'cuz Jabsco toilets only have two hose connections too--all manual toilets only have two...vented loops have to be added when needed. Which means that those hoses to and from a vented loop AREN'T extra...a vented loop in the intake IS needed in all toilet installations below the waterline. I strongly urge you to put it back....'cuz it's the only thing that will prevent water from flooding your bowl if the dry/flush valve is left in the "flush" mode. If you should forget to close the intake thru-hull AND accidentally leave the valve in the "flush" mode when you leave the boat, your boat can sink in her slip! That vented loop wouldn't have been there if it weren't needed...'cuz they aren't supplied with any toilet...it could only have been added because it IS needed. Your hose clamp screws should be on opposite sides of the hose...'cuz when a clamp is tightened it can create a pucker in the hose under the screw that can leak. The second clamp can also put a pucker in the hose, but it closes the one the first clamp created....unless the screws are aligned. A small thing, but can drive you crazy trying to figure out why it's leaking if it does leak.
It depends...
You said, "It seems that unless the hose from the pump to the holding tank has a downhill run, there isn't any way to get the water out of it." That depends on how long the head discharge hose is. If the uphill run is longer than about 6', you're right...there isn't. However, manual toilet pumps--at least those in good working order--are capable of doing more than you think. Any manual toilet that's working anywhere NEAR factory specs can move bowl contents at least 6' in the dry mode. ..."it has to be pumping air, and short puffs of air ain't gonna pump water up hill with any efficiency." Wanna bet?
Your 25 yr old Mansfield prob'ly can't any more...but I've seen new toilets push water over the top of a vented loop mounted 4' directly above the toilet discharge in the dry mode. If your toilet flushes at all, you can get by with it with a new joker valve if you keep it well lubricated and don't ask it to swallow large wads of TP--or ANYthing else except what you've eaten first!--till you have some economic recovery after buying the boat. But I wouldn't plan on keeping it longer than a year.
You said, "It seems that unless the hose from the pump to the holding tank has a downhill run, there isn't any way to get the water out of it." That depends on how long the head discharge hose is. If the uphill run is longer than about 6', you're right...there isn't. However, manual toilet pumps--at least those in good working order--are capable of doing more than you think. Any manual toilet that's working anywhere NEAR factory specs can move bowl contents at least 6' in the dry mode. ..."it has to be pumping air, and short puffs of air ain't gonna pump water up hill with any efficiency." Wanna bet?
Your 25 yr old Mansfield prob'ly can't any more...but I've seen new toilets push water over the top of a vented loop mounted 4' directly above the toilet discharge in the dry mode. If your toilet flushes at all, you can get by with it with a new joker valve if you keep it well lubricated and don't ask it to swallow large wads of TP--or ANYthing else except what you've eaten first!--till you have some economic recovery after buying the boat. But I wouldn't plan on keeping it longer than a year.Peggy
The two hoses that I joined together came from different positions on the Jabsco. One went to the top back of the bowl. The other went to the back of the pump housing. There is no place to put them on the Raritan. The new head has a hose joining the same two positions mentioned. The hose goes from the pump to the back of the bowl. Both heads have these positions at the upper part of the unit;the Raritan is joined with one hose and the Jabsco has separate hoses attached. There were no vented loops visable, but this is not to say they are hidden in an inaccessable place. What do you think? John Richard
The two hoses that I joined together came from different positions on the Jabsco. One went to the top back of the bowl. The other went to the back of the pump housing. There is no place to put them on the Raritan. The new head has a hose joining the same two positions mentioned. The hose goes from the pump to the back of the bowl. Both heads have these positions at the upper part of the unit;the Raritan is joined with one hose and the Jabsco has separate hoses attached. There were no vented loops visable, but this is not to say they are hidden in an inaccessable place. What do you think? John Richard
So what is the pump pumping, anyway?
Hi Head Mistress, I'm learning..... at least the Commodore hopes so..... hehe, she just asked me who I was writing to and I told her 'the Head Mistress'...... I wonder.... what does the pump take in on the upstroke.... air or water? If it's water, I'll buy it's ability to pump water over a vented loop...... I guess I need to look closer at the actual workings of the pump and valve. Also, thank you for the warning (that you gave to another poster) about the necessity of having a vented loop in the salt water intake line... I was wondering about that one, as my boat doesn't have one.... it will, very shortly. And that leaves me with a ponderable..... when your boat sinks in the slip, do the dock lines break, or the dock, or does it hang from the dock lines? hmmmmmm. I'll be ordering your book as soon as the Commodore decides on the color of winch covers.... Cheers, Bob s/v X SAIL R 8
Hi Head Mistress, I'm learning..... at least the Commodore hopes so..... hehe, she just asked me who I was writing to and I told her 'the Head Mistress'...... I wonder.... what does the pump take in on the upstroke.... air or water? If it's water, I'll buy it's ability to pump water over a vented loop...... I guess I need to look closer at the actual workings of the pump and valve. Also, thank you for the warning (that you gave to another poster) about the necessity of having a vented loop in the salt water intake line... I was wondering about that one, as my boat doesn't have one.... it will, very shortly. And that leaves me with a ponderable..... when your boat sinks in the slip, do the dock lines break, or the dock, or does it hang from the dock lines? hmmmmmm. I'll be ordering your book as soon as the Commodore decides on the color of winch covers.... Cheers, Bob s/v X SAIL R 8
When all else fails...<sigh>...
You didn't read the installation instructions, did ya? If you had, you'd have seen that the very first paragraph in the "Plumbing' instructions on page 2 is a warning in bold print: "Below waterline installations require vented loops. The top of the loops must be above the waterline at the greatest angle of heel. Intake vented loops must be installed between the pump and the back of the bowl...." Figure 2 on page 3 illustrates vented loops installation for below waterline toilets... Read 'em and weep here: http://www.raritaneng.com/pdf_files/compact_II/L219compactIIv0502.pdf And if you read the installation instructions for the Jabsco, they say just about the same thing...see page 2 here: http://www.jabsco.com/prodInfo/overview/29090_MANUAL_TOILET.PDF Both toilets--ALL manual toilets except for very expensive ones ($500-$1000) that have separate discharge pumps and intake valves--come from the factory with that same piece of hose that goes from the top of the pump to the back of the bowl...which has to be removed to install the vented loop in the intake. If you couldn't be bothered to read the instructions, I'll bet you didn't save 'em either...they went out in the trash, still in their plastic wrapper. Which means you won't have the trouble shooting guide or the exploded drawing and parts list for the toilet when you need those either...<sigh>... (walking off mumbling to myself to look for the Extra Strength Exedrin...)
You didn't read the installation instructions, did ya? If you had, you'd have seen that the very first paragraph in the "Plumbing' instructions on page 2 is a warning in bold print: "Below waterline installations require vented loops. The top of the loops must be above the waterline at the greatest angle of heel. Intake vented loops must be installed between the pump and the back of the bowl...." Figure 2 on page 3 illustrates vented loops installation for below waterline toilets... Read 'em and weep here: http://www.raritaneng.com/pdf_files/compact_II/L219compactIIv0502.pdf And if you read the installation instructions for the Jabsco, they say just about the same thing...see page 2 here: http://www.jabsco.com/prodInfo/overview/29090_MANUAL_TOILET.PDF Both toilets--ALL manual toilets except for very expensive ones ($500-$1000) that have separate discharge pumps and intake valves--come from the factory with that same piece of hose that goes from the top of the pump to the back of the bowl...which has to be removed to install the vented loop in the intake. If you couldn't be bothered to read the instructions, I'll bet you didn't save 'em either...they went out in the trash, still in their plastic wrapper. Which means you won't have the trouble shooting guide or the exploded drawing and parts list for the toilet when you need those either...<sigh>... (walking off mumbling to myself to look for the Extra Strength Exedrin...)
You'll find a detailed explanation of how a marine
toilet pump works in my book. "when your boat sinks in the slip, do the dock lines break, or the dock, or does it hang from the dock lines?" It's gonna go to the bottom...so anything that keeps it from getting there will break. What breaks first depends on what's weakest. Have you considered taking a CG Auxiliary or US Power Squadron boating safety course? I strongly recommend it!
toilet pump works in my book. "when your boat sinks in the slip, do the dock lines break, or the dock, or does it hang from the dock lines?" It's gonna go to the bottom...so anything that keeps it from getting there will break. What breaks first depends on what's weakest. Have you considered taking a CG Auxiliary or US Power Squadron boating safety course? I strongly recommend it!
John
Now I don't feel so stupid. Peggie must really get tired teaching all of us Toilets 101! Just went through same thing as you on my 35.5 and asked her the same question. Hunter has a habit of hiding vented loops behind shower stalls and up in bulkheads. You can bet that the 2 hoses you describe went to a loop.
Now I don't feel so stupid. Peggie must really get tired teaching all of us Toilets 101! Just went through same thing as you on my 35.5 and asked her the same question. Hunter has a habit of hiding vented loops behind shower stalls and up in bulkheads. You can bet that the 2 hoses you describe went to a loop.
Btw...why did you go with the Compact (CPII)
Instead of the PH II? Or PHC, which is the same toilet on a compact base to fit in a tighter space. There's no need to put the vented loop that far from the toilet...in fact, that location is actually TOO far from it. It belongs directly above the toilet...Hunter hid it to prevent it from detracting from the head "decor." Honeyman, I have to admit that it does get just a wee tad tiresome answering the same questions over and over...and over and over--especially when it's the same question I've already answered at least 3 times in the previous two days (which happened last week). And REALLY frustrating to have to tell someone they have a problem that could have prevented by just reading the bloomin' directions. But...I wouldn't be here if I didn't want to do it. So I guess I'll keep on doing it as long as my supply of Exedrin holds out.
Instead of the PH II? Or PHC, which is the same toilet on a compact base to fit in a tighter space. There's no need to put the vented loop that far from the toilet...in fact, that location is actually TOO far from it. It belongs directly above the toilet...Hunter hid it to prevent it from detracting from the head "decor."
Honeyman, I have to admit that it does get just a wee tad tiresome answering the same questions over and over...and over and over--especially when it's the same question I've already answered at least 3 times in the previous two days (which happened last week). And REALLY frustrating to have to tell someone they have a problem that could have prevented by just reading the bloomin' directions. But...I wouldn't be here if I didn't want to do it. So I guess I'll keep on doing it as long as my supply of Exedrin holds out.- Status