My 1986 C-25 has hatch boards that seem to have been systematically worn or machined down along the edges. The boards are the usual 3/4" thick, but the ends of the boards are thinned down to about 1/2" or a bit less. This doesn't seem to be the result of wear, as it is very uniform, but seems to be something the previous owner did. At any rate, because the boards are thin on the ends, they flop around in the channel and when they are in place, the top ones tend to slip down over the ones below, leaving a gap above the top board. Each board consists of a long piece of teak with the grain running horizontally, and a shorter piece on each end with the grain running parallel to the edge. They are assembled with tongue and groove and some sort of adhesive. Has anyone ever replaced the teak ends of the hatch boards? Buying new boards is quite expensive, making new ones will still run about $100 for the teak, but if I can simply replace the end pieces, it will be far cheaper. Does anyone know what the adhesive is that holds the pieces together?
Repairing Hatch boards
- Thread starter NCBill
- Start date
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
D
Dan
$100.00 is conservative
I purchased all new wod to make new drop boards for my C 25 and the cost of the wood alone was $230.00. A lot of people have just the end pieces replaced with pieces of wood that run verticle to the boards. I personnely hate this practice becasue it produces a weak joint. Drop boards is not the place for a weak joint, but hundreds of people do it. You could take the side rails off and have a piece of teak glued in there. That would close up the slot for a better fit.
I purchased all new wod to make new drop boards for my C 25 and the cost of the wood alone was $230.00. A lot of people have just the end pieces replaced with pieces of wood that run verticle to the boards. I personnely hate this practice becasue it produces a weak joint. Drop boards is not the place for a weak joint, but hundreds of people do it. You could take the side rails off and have a piece of teak glued in there. That would close up the slot for a better fit.
W
watercolors
Do the channel
Glue a thin strip of wood to the door channel making it fit your hatch boards. 2 strips maybe 24" long 1/2" wide by 1/8" thick or thicker.
Glue a thin strip of wood to the door channel making it fit your hatch boards. 2 strips maybe 24" long 1/2" wide by 1/8" thick or thicker.
Different dealers, different prices for teak
Well, I was quoted about $15 per board foot for teak lumber from East Teak. With 3 boards, each less than a foot wide with a total length of about 6 1/2 feet, that is a total of less than $100 for the lumber. I guess I don't understand why replacing the end pieces would be any weaker than the original. The joint between the board and the end piece is T&G, and a new T&G joint properly glued should be as good as the original. Nevertheless, I'll take another look at dropping a piece of teak in the slot. It isn't obvious without looking at it how I can fit a piece of teak strip in there - it has to be only 1/4 thick, not much room for screws, and glue wouldn't seem to hold nearly as well as in the T&G joint. Thanks for the ideas
Well, I was quoted about $15 per board foot for teak lumber from East Teak. With 3 boards, each less than a foot wide with a total length of about 6 1/2 feet, that is a total of less than $100 for the lumber. I guess I don't understand why replacing the end pieces would be any weaker than the original. The joint between the board and the end piece is T&G, and a new T&G joint properly glued should be as good as the original. Nevertheless, I'll take another look at dropping a piece of teak in the slot. It isn't obvious without looking at it how I can fit a piece of teak strip in there - it has to be only 1/4 thick, not much room for screws, and glue wouldn't seem to hold nearly as well as in the T&G joint. Thanks for the ideas
R
Ray
Why teak?
Just curious, why are you replacing with teak? Given the costs and the practical aspects of simply needing to cover the hatch, keeping out rain and intruders, I rebuilt my hatch boards with good grade, exterior plywood. I rabbeted the upper and lower edges to provide overlap of about 3/4 " as the boards are dropped into place. Two coats of white epoxy and they have lasted nearly ten years and still doing well. Maybe not the solution for the purist but I'd rather spend the saved money on other gadgets!
Just curious, why are you replacing with teak? Given the costs and the practical aspects of simply needing to cover the hatch, keeping out rain and intruders, I rebuilt my hatch boards with good grade, exterior plywood. I rabbeted the upper and lower edges to provide overlap of about 3/4 " as the boards are dropped into place. Two coats of white epoxy and they have lasted nearly ten years and still doing well. Maybe not the solution for the purist but I'd rather spend the saved money on other gadgets!
Teak is cheaper
As I can't seem to find anyone who sells marine plywood in less than 4' by 8' sheets for around $100 to over $200 plus shipping, the teak at under $100 seems a bargain. Specifically, if I can simply replace the end pieces, I would need only about $30 worth of teak. I'm still trying to determine the adhesive that is used.
As I can't seem to find anyone who sells marine plywood in less than 4' by 8' sheets for around $100 to over $200 plus shipping, the teak at under $100 seems a bargain. Specifically, if I can simply replace the end pieces, I would need only about $30 worth of teak. I'm still trying to determine the adhesive that is used.
D
Dan
T & G Joint is weak because
If you take a board with horizontal grain and glue a piece of wood to it that has the grain running vertical, the horizontal board will crack due to the difference in expansion of the wood in width, versus the length. The way to prevent the wood from cracking when joining wood this way is to glue joint in the center and let the ends float. Having glue only in the middle of the joint is not a very strong joint. Even if you tongue and groove it, it will still crack. The moisture in the wood makes it expand across the grain and drop boards might see a little moisture. As far as glue is concerned, I use epoxy. I scrub and flood the pieces with acetone. Let it dry a few minutes and paint a little epoxy on each surface. Then add a little thickened epoxy and clamp it lightly. Scrub the epoxy that squeezes out of the joint with acetone right away several times. The idea is to get the epoxy to go deep into the grain of the wood. If you take the side rails off and add a ¼” shim with epoxy and then have the groove re-machined, it will be fine for years. On my C25, one rail has a 1/2” groove and the other has a 5/8” groove. Go figure. I made all new stuff.
If you take a board with horizontal grain and glue a piece of wood to it that has the grain running vertical, the horizontal board will crack due to the difference in expansion of the wood in width, versus the length. The way to prevent the wood from cracking when joining wood this way is to glue joint in the center and let the ends float. Having glue only in the middle of the joint is not a very strong joint. Even if you tongue and groove it, it will still crack. The moisture in the wood makes it expand across the grain and drop boards might see a little moisture. As far as glue is concerned, I use epoxy. I scrub and flood the pieces with acetone. Let it dry a few minutes and paint a little epoxy on each surface. Then add a little thickened epoxy and clamp it lightly. Scrub the epoxy that squeezes out of the joint with acetone right away several times. The idea is to get the epoxy to go deep into the grain of the wood. If you take the side rails off and add a ¼” shim with epoxy and then have the groove re-machined, it will be fine for years. On my C25, one rail has a 1/2” groove and the other has a 5/8” groove. Go figure. I made all new stuff.
B
Bob B.
Exterior fir plywood. C22
I used the same material & procedure as Ray & painted with exterior oil based paint. Repainted once in 8 years because of dings & scratches. I have a light cabin top cover that extends from the mast to the bridge deck so the hatch boards are protected from the elements while not sailing. Regards from Canada
I used the same material & procedure as Ray & painted with exterior oil based paint. Repainted once in 8 years because of dings & scratches. I have a light cabin top cover that extends from the mast to the bridge deck so the hatch boards are protected from the elements while not sailing. Regards from Canada
Epoxy might do it.
Dan, The epoxy might do the trick - also, completely replacing the side rails with new wood or with epoxy shimmed wood might do also. I'll give all these ideas some consideration the next time I'm on the boat. If what you say is correct, however, why are all the hatch boards on Catalinas made with the entire width of the board having horizontal grain except for the last two inches on each end which are attached with a T&G joint and which have a nearly vertical grain? If it is going to break the way you say it will, it must take a long time - my C-25 is 20 years old and it hasn't happened yet. If I replace the end strips, I'll have to take the T&G joint apart with a router.
Dan, The epoxy might do the trick - also, completely replacing the side rails with new wood or with epoxy shimmed wood might do also. I'll give all these ideas some consideration the next time I'm on the boat. If what you say is correct, however, why are all the hatch boards on Catalinas made with the entire width of the board having horizontal grain except for the last two inches on each end which are attached with a T&G joint and which have a nearly vertical grain? If it is going to break the way you say it will, it must take a long time - my C-25 is 20 years old and it hasn't happened yet. If I replace the end strips, I'll have to take the T&G joint apart with a router.
D
Dan
It's probably
because they are only glued in the center and not he full length of the T&G joint.
because they are only glued in the center and not he full length of the T&G joint.
Wait a minute
Sometimes it takes me a minute to wake up. If your hatch boards already have the verticle piece of teak attached to the sides of the drop boards, repairing them is even easier.If you have a router, you do not need to remove the entine verticle side piece at the T&G joint. Just route the side piece down enough where you can glue a thin vernier piece on top of the routed out section. If you take your boards to a cabinet maker, they can fix you up easily. Or if you need, drop me an e-mail and I'll send you some drawings as to how to do this. Dan http://home.wmis.net/~dhapp/page1.html
Sometimes it takes me a minute to wake up. If your hatch boards already have the verticle piece of teak attached to the sides of the drop boards, repairing them is even easier.If you have a router, you do not need to remove the entine verticle side piece at the T&G joint. Just route the side piece down enough where you can glue a thin vernier piece on top of the routed out section. If you take your boards to a cabinet maker, they can fix you up easily. Or if you need, drop me an e-mail and I'll send you some drawings as to how to do this. Dan http://home.wmis.net/~dhapp/page1.html
- Status
- Not open for further replies.