Repairing Damaged Core

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Rick D

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Jun 14, 2008
7,186
Hunter Legend 40.5 Shoreline Marina Long Beach CA
I have a damaged core area about 6 inches by about 8 inches near an added-on cleat used for the roller furling. Apparently it was leaking and the wash water and rain seeped under it. I was told to drill holes in the area to saturate the balsa core. How do I make the mix thin and slow curing so as to penetrate as far as possible? Are there any helpful hints for this kind of repair?
 
D

Droop

NO!

Here is what you have to do. Carefully cut the fiber glass out so it can be reused. The replace the rotted wood. Glue the removed fiberglass back down. Sorry!
 
T

TT

Do some research first

Rick - I see a lot of posts on this site by people like yourself who have boat problems & want some advice / help in finding a solution. Sharing experiences & info is great & can be very helpful, but before you take the advice of anyone, myself included, who may or may NOT know what they're talking about, take the trouble to learn a bit from the professionals. West System has a very inexpensive handbook called "Fiberglass Boat Repair & Maintenance" or something like that - it sells for about $ 5.00 and is full of information, with good drawings etc. and is well worth studying. I don't have any interest in promoting the WEST System products, but they are leaders in the field and I think are highly professional. Their recommendations apply to the use of any brand of products, and detail the correct proceedures required to get satisfactory results. Learn how to do a job the "right way", and then you're in a much better position to decide what corners to cut & what advice to follow. If your boat was designed for pedestal steering the cockpit floor should have a plywood core. I have a '78 O'Day 27 that originally had tiller steer and the cockpit floor has a 1/2" balsa core, with an additional 3/4" of plywood glassed underneath it to stand the additional strains of the pedestal steer. Over time, water has seeped into the balsa core and caused rot (spongy areas): my plan is to remove the steering pedestal entirely, then remove the 3/4" plywood, the bottom (inside) laminate plus all of the balsa core that's rotted. Then I'll epoxy-bond a 1" thick plywood floor in place and then build up the inner laminate with epoxy & glass cloth to about a 1/8" thickness. Before I replace the bolts holding my pedestal in place, I'll drill oversize holes and fill them with a thickened epoxy mixture, then drill the correct size hole through the epoxy plug & seal the whole works with 3M-5200. This is all covered in the WEST manual I mentioned earlier. I firmly believe in fixing something ONCE, but doing it right. That's a lot of work, and if you can't tackle it yourself, it's probably a lot of $$$ to get a yard to do it. You're the guy who has to decide if the boat is worth it. Your other option is to enjoy the boat as-is for as long as you can, but respect the limitations imposed by the weakened cockpit sole and stay clear of any heavy weather & hard sailing.
 
B

Bruce Niederer

Good advice

I have been very impressed while participating in this forum with the good advice many of the participants offer - TT from Sambro is a good example. He has saved me alot of typing ! The manual he referenced, and all our manuals, are written to describe technique - not sell epoxy. Still, we hope that folks will decide to go with our product based on the quality of information we provide. We will actually recommend products other than our own if we believe the customer would be better served. I have mentioned in many of my responses this week that epoxy is the best resin for making repairs to polyester FRP hulls, and certainly stand behind that statement, but any first time caller to our tech staff will tell you, we don't give anybody the hard sell - we have learned that honest straight forward advice and a successful repair will generate customers without the need to be pushy. Thanks for the help TT.
 
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