I have some soft spots on the forward port deck and need to open the area to repair or replace the balsa core. I hope to do this from the underside (in the V Berth) and wonder if anyone can advise as to the types of cutting tools that could be used. I propose to cut the lower skin (after removing the liner) and peel it back to expose the core material without cutting through the top skin. Would a dremel tool be good enough?
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Don Casey Book
Check out Don Casey's Sailboat Hull and Deck Repair book. It's great and B&N stocks it. Rich
Check out Don Casey's Sailboat Hull and Deck Repair book. It's great and B&N stocks it. Rich
Thanks Rich, I have Allan Vaitses's book "The Fiberglass Boat Repair Manual" and he outlines some good stuff re epoxies and repairs but suggests using a circular saw set to a shallow depth to cut the first layer of fiberglass. This will be very difficult to do working from under the decks. I certainly will check out Don Casey's book and I see that he has several others. I saw a tool from FEIN called the Multimaster that looks interesting but the cost is over $350.00 plus taxes. Charlie
Dremmel works but go slow and take breaks.
I cut out the top. I know you want to keep the top layer intact, but working from the bottom you can't fill the voids. I tried to remove the top in 1 section so I could glass it back in, but was unsuccessful. 1)Take frequent breaks so you don't overheat the Dremmel and burn out the brushes. 2)Cut an area bigger than the problem, then dig out under the edge (about 1/2 inch) so when you fit your new core in you can push the wood slightly under the old glass. 3)I used 1/4" x 3" poplar from Home Depot and fitted them as tightly under all edges. Sand down any high spots with a power sander and 40-60 grit. Mark small notches where boards fit together every 4-6 inches. Then remove the boards, cut out the small notches and epoxy all sides/edges/ends twice. 4)Fit the boards back into the hole and pour first epoxy mix over boards and work it down through the notches to adhere under the boards (flex them to work it underneath). 5)Apply several layers of glass mat/cloth one layer at a time (you DON'T have to let each cure fully before starting the next). Work in the resin to prevent any bubbles or gaps. Mine took about 10 layers to fill up to the old fiberglass level. After about every 3-4 layers, I let it cure hard and sanded down any unsmooth bulges/ripples. 6)In the upper layers, I added a white pigment so if it gets scratched, it will still be white underneath (like the gel coat). 7)When just below the final height stop adding the glass mat and finish off with just the resin thickened with Cabasil (or other thickening agent) to get a smooth surface. Thicken the resin until it is like syrup before adding the hardner and pour it onto the area. Use a plastic spatula to spread it out. If you mixed it to the right thickness, it will smooth itself out without running off before it hardens (takes some practice). If you mess up, just sand it down and try again. You may want to tape around the area to prevent it running off if it is too thin. 8)I am now working on a method to create a new non-skid textured surface for the area. Since my 30 year old deck has been painted at least twice, the old texture is no good (I can't make a mold of the old pattern) and I need to resurface the whole deck to get the appearance I want. Remember that epoxy and polyster resins don't have UV protectant like gel coat, so they need to be painted. Good luck, Jim
I cut out the top. I know you want to keep the top layer intact, but working from the bottom you can't fill the voids. I tried to remove the top in 1 section so I could glass it back in, but was unsuccessful. 1)Take frequent breaks so you don't overheat the Dremmel and burn out the brushes. 2)Cut an area bigger than the problem, then dig out under the edge (about 1/2 inch) so when you fit your new core in you can push the wood slightly under the old glass. 3)I used 1/4" x 3" poplar from Home Depot and fitted them as tightly under all edges. Sand down any high spots with a power sander and 40-60 grit. Mark small notches where boards fit together every 4-6 inches. Then remove the boards, cut out the small notches and epoxy all sides/edges/ends twice. 4)Fit the boards back into the hole and pour first epoxy mix over boards and work it down through the notches to adhere under the boards (flex them to work it underneath). 5)Apply several layers of glass mat/cloth one layer at a time (you DON'T have to let each cure fully before starting the next). Work in the resin to prevent any bubbles or gaps. Mine took about 10 layers to fill up to the old fiberglass level. After about every 3-4 layers, I let it cure hard and sanded down any unsmooth bulges/ripples. 6)In the upper layers, I added a white pigment so if it gets scratched, it will still be white underneath (like the gel coat). 7)When just below the final height stop adding the glass mat and finish off with just the resin thickened with Cabasil (or other thickening agent) to get a smooth surface. Thicken the resin until it is like syrup before adding the hardner and pour it onto the area. Use a plastic spatula to spread it out. If you mixed it to the right thickness, it will smooth itself out without running off before it hardens (takes some practice). If you mess up, just sand it down and try again. You may want to tape around the area to prevent it running off if it is too thin. 8)I am now working on a method to create a new non-skid textured surface for the area. Since my 30 year old deck has been painted at least twice, the old texture is no good (I can't make a mold of the old pattern) and I need to resurface the whole deck to get the appearance I want. Remember that epoxy and polyster resins don't have UV protectant like gel coat, so they need to be painted. Good luck, Jim
Dremel Tools
Thanks Capt Jim, Work will likely start in November (if it is not too cold) and I will leave the area open until spring to dry out. Still hope to do it from under the decks as the decks are in good shape. Will let you know how it works out. Charlie
Thanks Capt Jim, Work will likely start in November (if it is not too cold) and I will leave the area open until spring to dry out. Still hope to do it from under the decks as the decks are in good shape. Will let you know how it works out. Charlie
Soft Decks
Capt Jim, What happened to the top deck? You mentioned that you were not able to remove the top layer in one piece. Charlie
Capt Jim, What happened to the top deck? You mentioned that you were not able to remove the top layer in one piece. Charlie
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