I recently purchased a 1993 23.5 hunter. I need some information on repainting the bottom of the boat. I am sure somone else has done this and can give me very helpful advice. I also would like some advice on stepping the mast. Thanks again, Allan.
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Jonathan Costello
Mast Stepping
Allan, I can't give you any input on bottom painting. However, I recently purchased a 1994 23.5 and am a first time boat owner. I found the mast stepping instructions in the owners manual to be very well written. If you follow the instructions verbatim you can easily step the mast by yourself. I had no prior experience in raising the mast and I did it by myself with absolutely no outside assistance. It sounds as though you do not have an owners manual. I recommend that you call Hunter and order one. There is a wealth of information in it besides mast stepping procedures.
Allan, I can't give you any input on bottom painting. However, I recently purchased a 1994 23.5 and am a first time boat owner. I found the mast stepping instructions in the owners manual to be very well written. If you follow the instructions verbatim you can easily step the mast by yourself. I had no prior experience in raising the mast and I did it by myself with absolutely no outside assistance. It sounds as though you do not have an owners manual. I recommend that you call Hunter and order one. There is a wealth of information in it besides mast stepping procedures.
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Bill O'Donovan
No!
Do not raise the mast by yourself. At the very least, hail a passerby at the critical moment to take the forestay up the bow and pin it. Otherwise you run the risk of the entire superstructure coming down on you or blasting a hole in the deck as the base blows loose. You don't see one guy raising the flag at the Iwo Jima Memorial, eh? As to bottom paint, check the full-page in Boat US or West Marine catalog for guidance on what to use. Ablative is popular because it lasts all season and rubs off over the course of the season, precluding chipping and scraping.
Do not raise the mast by yourself. At the very least, hail a passerby at the critical moment to take the forestay up the bow and pin it. Otherwise you run the risk of the entire superstructure coming down on you or blasting a hole in the deck as the base blows loose. You don't see one guy raising the flag at the Iwo Jima Memorial, eh? As to bottom paint, check the full-page in Boat US or West Marine catalog for guidance on what to use. Ablative is popular because it lasts all season and rubs off over the course of the season, precluding chipping and scraping.
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Jonathan Costello
Why not!
Bill, Your mast is not going anywhere while you are connecting the forestay because you have the stabilizer cables and shrouds preventing lateral movement and you have the gin pole, jib halyard and mainsheet (themainsheet is attached between the gin pole and the U-Bolt in the anchor locker) holding the mast up in place while you attach the forestay to the proper location on the bow (the upper hole of the two). There is no need to undo the mainsheet while connecting the forestay. That is the beauty of the mast raising system of the 23.5! If you have a problem raising your mast on a 23.5/240 then something is not right. Am I missing something here?
Bill, Your mast is not going anywhere while you are connecting the forestay because you have the stabilizer cables and shrouds preventing lateral movement and you have the gin pole, jib halyard and mainsheet (themainsheet is attached between the gin pole and the U-Bolt in the anchor locker) holding the mast up in place while you attach the forestay to the proper location on the bow (the upper hole of the two). There is no need to undo the mainsheet while connecting the forestay. That is the beauty of the mast raising system of the 23.5! If you have a problem raising your mast on a 23.5/240 then something is not right. Am I missing something here?
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Alan Long
All the time
I've raised and lowered the mast on my 23.5 at least a hundred times. Never a problem. If you want a little added security you can take the main halyard and attach it to the bow cleat or railing as a safety line while the forestay is attached. I think the most important thing is to make sure that the main sheet, jib halyard and gin pole are in good condition. Alan Long 1994 23.5
I've raised and lowered the mast on my 23.5 at least a hundred times. Never a problem. If you want a little added security you can take the main halyard and attach it to the bow cleat or railing as a safety line while the forestay is attached. I think the most important thing is to make sure that the main sheet, jib halyard and gin pole are in good condition. Alan Long 1994 23.5
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bruce
bottom paint on 23.5
I also have a 1993 23.5. I have had it bottom painted twice during the six years I have owned it. I use an ablative paint because I am told that the hard bottom paint loses its effectiveness after the boat has been out of the water for a certain period of time. Therefore, unless you keep the boat in the water at all times, you may negate the biocide used in the hard bottom paint while the boat sits on the trailer. I also use the ablative because it wears off over time and needs little if any sanding before repainting. Saves me $$$ at haulout/repainting time.
I also have a 1993 23.5. I have had it bottom painted twice during the six years I have owned it. I use an ablative paint because I am told that the hard bottom paint loses its effectiveness after the boat has been out of the water for a certain period of time. Therefore, unless you keep the boat in the water at all times, you may negate the biocide used in the hard bottom paint while the boat sits on the trailer. I also use the ablative because it wears off over time and needs little if any sanding before repainting. Saves me $$$ at haulout/repainting time.
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Alan Long
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crazy dave
Allan, if you are still confused, call me.
Allan; If you are still confused and need help, call me. You can call Hunter and they will tell you my number. IF anyone has it, let Allan know thru a personal email to him and not on the forum. You know my postion to keep me unknown out of respect for the forum but for me too. Thnaks guys. For the record Alan, I was instrumental getting Hunter to build the water ballast and have introduced every model. Happy sailing. Crazy Dave condon
Allan; If you are still confused and need help, call me. You can call Hunter and they will tell you my number. IF anyone has it, let Allan know thru a personal email to him and not on the forum. You know my postion to keep me unknown out of respect for the forum but for me too. Thnaks guys. For the record Alan, I was instrumental getting Hunter to build the water ballast and have introduced every model. Happy sailing. Crazy Dave condon
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Rick Webb
From the Archives
Mast raising checklist Submitted by Jack Bristow on 08/01 at 05:38AM regarding Hunter 26. Here is a checklist we use to raise the mast on our H26. We seem to always forget something if we don"t use it.Mast Raising check list 1. Untie front and rear of mast, unrap ties from mast 2. untie all lines from cleats and stops 3. move jib forward 4. Attach forestay in mast fitting 5. Check jib and furlaker halyards in front of spreaders 6. Check main halyard behind spreaders 7. Move mast back to step and attach wind vane and check shroud fittings 8. Attach side support stays under all lines 9. Put chin pole in mast 10. Attach mainsheet tackle to chin pole and anchor eye 11. Attach jib halyard to chin pole 12. Run mainsheet under all lines to port winch 13. Tie furler to lifelines 14. Raise mast to near vertical and check turnbuckles 15. Raise mast to vertical 16. Check furler orientation 17. Insert forestay pin 18. Remove mainsheet tackle 19. Fasten mast wiring 20. Put on boom, tie topping lift 21. Put sail slides in mast track 22. Fasten Main halyard 23. Fasten vang 24. Run jib sheets 25. Route furling line 26. Fasten mainsheet tackle 27. Remove mast crutch 28. Lower motor Mast raising and lowerieng. Submitted by Dave Condon on 08/01 at 12:33PM regarding Hunter 26 There are several recommendations to your list for raising and lowering of the Hunter 23.5 and 26. 1. Raise the mast pole 5-10 degrees upward when attaching the jib halyard to allow stretch of the jib halyard. Pull hard on the line to release tension on the forestay. It will be allot easier to unpin the forestay with no tension on it. Do not leave the mast raise system under tension for too long. 2. Shake out the shrouds prio to raising the mast all the way or the studs will bend on you. Suggest a bungy cord holding the shrouds forward of the mast when the studs are upright on the chain plates. 3. If you leave the mast raise system without the forestay being attached, tie that line to a rial or something. Soneone could accidentally step on the line causing it to come loose and your mast will fall down. 4. Carpet or cushion the bow with the mast laying on the bow pulpit. 5. While traveling, take an extra line and tie your rudder to the stern rail and rudder. All the Hunter 23.5, 240, 26 and 260 when leaving the plant are tied up for extra precaution. If you ever saw a rudder sanded down by the pavement, you would understand. 6. Some manufacuturers would tend to tell you to travel with the motor hanging down. I do it all the time without incident. If you do raise the motor andit is titled up, tie the shaft portion to the outboard motor bracket. This is based on experience
Mast raising checklist Submitted by Jack Bristow on 08/01 at 05:38AM regarding Hunter 26. Here is a checklist we use to raise the mast on our H26. We seem to always forget something if we don"t use it.Mast Raising check list 1. Untie front and rear of mast, unrap ties from mast 2. untie all lines from cleats and stops 3. move jib forward 4. Attach forestay in mast fitting 5. Check jib and furlaker halyards in front of spreaders 6. Check main halyard behind spreaders 7. Move mast back to step and attach wind vane and check shroud fittings 8. Attach side support stays under all lines 9. Put chin pole in mast 10. Attach mainsheet tackle to chin pole and anchor eye 11. Attach jib halyard to chin pole 12. Run mainsheet under all lines to port winch 13. Tie furler to lifelines 14. Raise mast to near vertical and check turnbuckles 15. Raise mast to vertical 16. Check furler orientation 17. Insert forestay pin 18. Remove mainsheet tackle 19. Fasten mast wiring 20. Put on boom, tie topping lift 21. Put sail slides in mast track 22. Fasten Main halyard 23. Fasten vang 24. Run jib sheets 25. Route furling line 26. Fasten mainsheet tackle 27. Remove mast crutch 28. Lower motor Mast raising and lowerieng. Submitted by Dave Condon on 08/01 at 12:33PM regarding Hunter 26 There are several recommendations to your list for raising and lowering of the Hunter 23.5 and 26. 1. Raise the mast pole 5-10 degrees upward when attaching the jib halyard to allow stretch of the jib halyard. Pull hard on the line to release tension on the forestay. It will be allot easier to unpin the forestay with no tension on it. Do not leave the mast raise system under tension for too long. 2. Shake out the shrouds prio to raising the mast all the way or the studs will bend on you. Suggest a bungy cord holding the shrouds forward of the mast when the studs are upright on the chain plates. 3. If you leave the mast raise system without the forestay being attached, tie that line to a rial or something. Soneone could accidentally step on the line causing it to come loose and your mast will fall down. 4. Carpet or cushion the bow with the mast laying on the bow pulpit. 5. While traveling, take an extra line and tie your rudder to the stern rail and rudder. All the Hunter 23.5, 240, 26 and 260 when leaving the plant are tied up for extra precaution. If you ever saw a rudder sanded down by the pavement, you would understand. 6. Some manufacuturers would tend to tell you to travel with the motor hanging down. I do it all the time without incident. If you do raise the motor andit is titled up, tie the shaft portion to the outboard motor bracket. This is based on experience
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