Repacking the Stuffing Box

Dec 16, 2011
257
Catalina 310 Atlantic Highlands
As I've mentioned on this forum before, I'm not the most handy guy but owning a sailboat means doing a lot of maintenance yourself or paying a lot of money for someone else to do it. If the job gets too complicated I tend to bail out and pay for it...a good example is when I had a new RAM mic for my fixed-mount AIS VHF installed in the cockpit...the cable was so large that every wire had to be dropped out of the binnacle and then re-run after the RAM cable was installed...it took a professional 8 hours so I have no earthly idea how long and how much profanity it would have cost me. And I'm always in awe of @JK_Boston_Catalina310 (Jesse Krawiec's) projects, which I have neither the time nor the inclination to attempt.

Anyway, over the past two seasons the drip from the stuffing box has gotten more and more frequent...to the tune of a drop every second (or faster) while the boat is at rest. I'd tightened the nut to the point where I knew it was time to replace the packing material. I was not relishing this project, similar to the first time I changed the impeller in my Sherwood pump. For the impeller, I'd heard how nightmarish it was to get those bolts off the Sherwood because they are on the back-side of the pump. However, once I did it once (30+ minutes that time), I can now change that impeller in about 15 minutes, and most of that time is just getting those bolts off, one quarter-turn at a time.

This project was similar...I've been putting it off and putting it off because I thought it was going to be horrible but it turned out to not be that difficult. Of course, the boat isn't back in the water yet so I guess I'll know Sunday if I royally screwed it up or not.

This site has been mentioned a ton on this forum, but I followed the guidance from Maine Sail's Marine How-To site article on repacking a traditional stuffing box and that article was a huge, huge, huge help.

First, I knew I needed tools to get the old stuffing material out of the nut. I purchased this TEKTON 6943 Precision Pick and Hook Set, 4-Piece on Amazon and they worked perfectly, except for when I went to pick one of them up and drove a hook under my thumbnail...that sucked. Remember how I'm not that handy?

Second, I knew I needed the new stuffing material. Based on the article, I found what I needed at Hamilton Marine (a place I had not purchased from in the past), and even in the middle of COVID-19 and despite their pandemic shipping time warning on their web site, they shipped it out to me much faster than I anticipated.

IMG_2381.jpg

The first step was to open up the nuts. As you can see, I've got that pale green outer layer (I believe called a patina) everywhere. I believe the patina protects the copper below the surface from further corrosion, but I am am incorrect or there is a problem in this area on my boat I am sure that folks here will let me know. ;-)

IMG_2374.jpg

I have 2 giant wrenches that I am sure I overpaid for (again, from Amazon) but these things work, even if I have to do everything in a quarter-turn and then reposition the wrenches (just like with the impeller, except with much, much smaller wrenches).

IMG_2375.jpg

It did take a little work, but I got the large nut slid up the shaft.

IMG_2376.jpg

And using my tools purchased from Amazon had the old packing material out in less than 10 minutes. Note that there were 4 rings of material in there, which is the maximum the article recommends. Apparently 3 is optimal.

IMG_2378.jpg

So following the instructions from the article, I went below the boat and used the shaft between the hull and the strut to measure and cut the new material (at the recommended 45 degree angle, with a brand new razor blade). I replaced the 4 rings with 3, as the article said you 'could' use 4 but 3 was optimal.

IMG_2379.jpg

I then carefully inserted the material and used a flat head screwdriver to (carefully!) press the rings (one at a time) into the nut. I also used a sharpie to label where the cut was on each ring and staggered the cuts in the nut (again, a recommendation from the article). Then I re-screwed the nut back into place.

IMG_2380.jpg

The job was not nearly as time-consuming or as difficult as I expected. It was less than an hour, start to finish. I was on the hard for this project, which made it easier as I didn't have to watch water flooding into the boat while feeling pressure to complete it as quickly as possible. But again, I won't really know how well I did until the boat goes back into the water on May 31.

I decided to post this article for two reasons...one, so people like me who are not naturals at this type of thing (I'm an IT Program Manager, for goodness sake) can see that even jobs with a reputation for being bears are doable. Second, I think I did everything correctly based on the article but if I made any errors detectable by this post /pictures then I'm sure this group will weigh in and let me know. :)
 

BillyK

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Jan 24, 2010
502
Catalina 310 Ocean City, NJ
Nice write up Curt.. with every job we do on our own on our boats the boat becomes less and less of a mystery. And the better prepared we are to deal with issues while on the water..
 
Dec 25, 2008
1,580
catalina 310 Elk River
Looks like you have a bronze shaft. From the pictures it seems a bit rough where the packing would contact.
It may still drip more than you would want as a result. If you tighten too much it could over heat.
One other note on the bronze shafts, the contact area with the cutlass bearing is also subject to copper depletion due to the sulfur used to vulcanize the nitrile rubber. May want to check that out.
 
Dec 16, 2011
257
Catalina 310 Atlantic Highlands
One other note on the bronze shafts, the contact area with the cutlass bearing is also subject to copper depletion due to the sulfur used to vulcanize the nitrile rubber. May want to check that out.
Next year I think I am going to have the shaft pulled so I can replace the stuffing box hose, and I'll take your advice on having the cutlass bearing area checked as well.
 

BillyK

.
Jan 24, 2010
502
Catalina 310 Ocean City, NJ
Next year I think I am going to have the shaft pulled so I can replace the stuffing box hose, and I'll take your advice on having the cutlass bearing area checked as well.
be ready to lift the engine to install the new shaft.. the old one you can cut out. at least i had to lift the motor to be able to get the new shaft in since it wouldnt clear the rudder. some guys apparently have had success in getting the shaft out past the rudder by removing the cutlass bearing to give enough wiggle to pass it by. even with my cutlass out i was unable to get it out. luckly (or unluckly) i had to replace the engine mounts at the same time anyway, so i already had a lift in place. use a 4x4 across the companionway top with a come along attached to the engine lift points..

good luck!..
 
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Likes: Tom J
Apr 8, 2011
768
Hunter 40 Deale, MD
Job well done! I also repacked my stuffing box for the first time this year. Agree - MainSail's article is excellent. It went pretty much according to plan, but I caved and bought the right size stuffing box wrenches (and cheap picks from Harbor Freight). It took some PBblaster to get the nuts to move, but after some preventive maintenance and lanolin I think we won't have that problem again. There were only two rings in mine, and that's all I could fit with the new packing material. The one thing I wish I'd done differently was only gently finger tighten the big nut and finish tightening as soon as the marina splashed me. I did it hand tight, but possibly a little too much, prematurely compressing the rings maybe more than they needed. I'll be monitoring the temp - no drips at all right now - and a spot check underway revealed only a warm stuffing box while underway after 30 mins. I'm grateful Hunter made it as accessible as it is in my H36, under the bunk in the aft cabin. No contortionist moves necessary.
 
Jan 4, 2006
6,469
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
@SawyerCurt , you bin looking over my shoulder, huh :angry: ?

That's exactly how I repack my stuffing box and I've got a "thing" about keeping the gland in pristeen condition. Something called OCD.

I know that bronze shafts can really get rough where they are exposed but if you re-pack with this shaft, be sure to clean the shaft as best you can before contaminating the new packing as it goes in. Speaking of packing, you didn't mention what type you used. If you do go for an SS shaft in the future, you may want to avoid any packing containing graphite, if only because it is controversial for the possibility of galvanic corrosion on the SS.

When finished packing, try covering down the whole packing assembly with Fluid Film or a water proof grease to hold off on corrosion and salt adhesion. Avoid the hose.

Completed Packing Job 2.jpg
 

BillyK

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Jan 24, 2010
502
Catalina 310 Ocean City, NJ
i'm using corrosionX HD to try and keep my coupling and shaft from rusting
 
Dec 16, 2011
257
Catalina 310 Atlantic Highlands
Quick update - splashed the boat Sunday and someone was on my mooring (the club misunderstood when I was going into the water and put a transient on my mooring for the day), so I slowly motored back and forth across the mooring field for 30 minutes while they prepared to get underway and vacate my mooring. I must have done a decent job because there were zero drips during that time...which also concerned me as I know that is what cools the shaft so once on the mooring I backed the nut off just enough to get a small bit of water and then tightened ever so slightly. Left the boat for about 5 hours and came back and everything was still dry. Next time we're motoring for an extended time I'll check again to make sure we've got a bit of a drip going.
 
Oct 22, 2014
21,085
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
It is rewarding Curt when a plan comes together and yields satisfying results.
 
Jan 4, 2006
6,469
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
I must have done a decent job because there were zero drips during that time
Congratulations. From your description of the packing job, I would have expected nothing less.


there were zero drips during that time...which also concerned me as I know that is what cools the shaft
Don't rely on that old wife's tale too much (just love to get the old purists here ranting and raving:laugh:).

A few drops of water a minute isn't going to cool anything, nada, nothing, not one bit. It's the high conductivity, cold metal shaft that sucks the heat away into the water, and fast. As far as water lubrication goes, it looks like you used some sort of graphite bearing packing which has a coefficient of friction far smaller than water on solid packing.

The only purpose of the dripping is an indication of how tightly the packing has been cinched down. If the packing is leaking, you know it's not too tight. But then again, maybe not tight enough. If it's NOT leaking, it could be just tight enough or maybe way too tight. You just don't know if it's not leaking.

THE BEST INDICATOR OF GLAND HEALTH IS TEMPERATURE. Tighten the gland in increments of one half a flat until the surface of the packing nut is just wet, for safety's sake. Then when you get really wild and out of control like myself, you run the packing so it doesn't drip at all and several thousand hours later, it's has a mirror like finish.

Fig. 4.jpg


The above applies ONLY to a correctly packed gland with modern packing. Improperly packed, all bets are off.
 
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JRT

.
Feb 14, 2017
2,046
Catalina 310 211 Lake Guntersville, AL
Any reason you didn't go with this from CD?


I have a few things I want to order and was going to add this for my July haul out bottom job plans.
 
Last edited:
Dec 16, 2011
257
Catalina 310 Atlantic Highlands
Any reason you didn't go with this from CD?
It is the same stuff I bought, I just got it from a different source. I didn't even check Catalina Direct...I just did a Google search.
 
Dec 16, 2011
257
Catalina 310 Atlantic Highlands
It is the same stuff I bought, I just got it from a different source. I didn't even check Catalina Direct...I just did a Google search.
I should add that I needed 1/4" and not 3/16". Apparently Catalina used 2 different size nuts at different times, I guess? I think I saw that on the Forums here. I actually ordered 3 feet of each, and when I pulled the old stuff out I checked it against both and it was clear I needed 1/4".